1922 Chandler Royal Dispatch with Bosch DU6 magneto and coil, capacitor needed?

[PWN]

In-line split six...called the Marvelous Motor.

 

The coil was added by my grandfather eons ago. I recently got the car started after some preservation and it seems to run pretty good. The coil has a bracket with a capacitor but it has no wire.

 

A friend helping with car thinks the spark is anemic, could be because of the lack of a capacitor?  How would I determine the correct one, if it is needed, and to hook it up?

 

Thank you,

 

Peter

Edited December 2, 2022 by PWN (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

Coil ignition needs a condenser or capacitor to work right. It is connected to the live side of the points or to the coil wire that goes to the points. Usually about .25 Mfd. If you know what brand of coil you have you might find a matching condenser. For example, a Delco coil would use a GM condenser as for Chevrolet, Oldsmobile etc. an Autolite coil a Dodge condenser, Motorcraft - Ford etc.

 

Condenser normally goes inside the distributor but it will work just as well on the coil.

 

Was the ignition originally magneto?

Edited December 3, 2022 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Old buicks 2]

1922 Chandler was originally equipped with a Bosch electrical system.

[29 Chandler]

Peter I have the same set up. There is a condenser originally mounted on the bottom of the magneto. I also added a modern condenser close to the points which in my case were added in the 1960's up under the dash.

[PWN]

Thanks Chris.

 

Originally I think it was just Bosch DU6 without coil, according to the 1922 wiring diagram. 

 

Consensus is rehab magneto? Its in really good shape,  no rust...original finish.

 

 

[Rusty_OToole]

Two things happen to old magnetos, besides wear and tear. The magnets lose their magnetism and the varnish insulation on the wires deteriorates. This only becomes apparent when you put an old mag back in service, it gets hot, and the varnish melts.  It drips down and when it cools, freezes up the mag.

 

Auto electric shops have a growler that will remagnetize the magnets. You can check the varnish by heating the mag and if necessary, have it rewound.

[mikewest]

On 12/2/2022 at 2:23 PM, PWN said:

In-line split six...called the Marvelous Motor.

 

The coil was added by my grandfather eons ago. I recently got the car started after some preservation and it seems to run pretty good. The coil has a bracket with a capacitor but it has no wire.

 

A friend helping with car thinks the spark is anemic, could be because of the lack of a capacitor?  How would I determine the correct one, if it is needed, and to hook it up?

 

Thank you,

 

Peter

Thats a GREAT LOOKING MOTOR! Keep a eye out for some period hose clamps will make it even better!! 

[29 Chandler]

15 hours ago, PWN said:

Thanks Chris.

 

Originally I think it was just Bosch DU6 without coil, according to the 1922 wiring diagram. 

 

Consensus is rehab magneto? Its in really good shape,  no rust...original finish.

 

 

Peter

 

I am happy with the set up that Harold did on our car I the 1960's. Adding the coil makes it so the mag is now just a distributor, seems like its worked well for over 60 years now with the same coil. You are correct there was no coil originally. The down side of using the coil is that when the battery is weak the spark is weak, not an issue with the original set up.

[Larry Schramm]

36 minutes ago, 29 Chandler said:

Peter

 

I am happy with the set up that Harold did on our car I the 1960's. Adding the coil makes it so the mag is now just a distributor, seems like its worked well for over 60 years now with the same coil. You are correct there was no coil originally. The down side of using the coil is that when the battery is weak the spark is weak, not an issue with the original set up.

 

I have the same set up on one of my cars and I too have been very happy with it.

[PWN]

On 12/3/2022 at 9:52 PM, mikewest said:

Thats a GREAT LOOKING MOTOR! Keep a eye out for some period hose clamps will make it even better!! 

Yep, lots of little details to wok out. Thanks for your comment.

[PWN]

I am tweaking the timing, I roughed timed when I got it started the other day.

 

Currently I have #1 piston at TDC and the magneto alignment is magneto brush at #1 cylinder at about in the middle of the large brass contact in the magneto for the #1 cylinder. As set the points have just closed. The magneto timing is set at full retard at the steering wheel. It runs pretty good and idles well although I haven't been able to run it much to normal temp because of some other issues.

 

When are the points supposed to open and should the timing be set at the instant the brush just meets the #1 cylinder contact?

 

Chris, I read your account of setting timing and not sure how my current timing set up corresponds to how you set yours.

 

Thanks all,

 

Peter

Edited December 9, 2022 by PWN (see edit history)

[29 Chandler]

3 hours ago, PWN said:

I am tweaking the timing, I roughed timed when I got it started the other day.

 

Currently I have #1 piston at TDC and the magneto alignment is magneto brush at #1 cylinder at about in the middle of the large brass contact in the magneto for the #1 cylinder. As set the points have just closed. The magneto timing is set at full retard at the steering wheel. It runs pretty good and idles well although I haven't been able to run it much to normal temp because of some other issues.

 

When are the points supposed to open and should the timing be set at the instant the brush just meets the #1 cylinder contact?

 

Chris, I read your account of setting timing and not sure how my current timing set up corresponds to how you set yours.

 

Thanks all,

 

Peter

Peter I would say if it is running good now you are least close to having the timing dialed in. Once you have a running/driving car you'll be able to get it out on the road and be able to manually adjust the advance while you drive and be able to notice a difference in small adjustments.

[Oldtech]

The spark occurs when the points open, so I would set it so that at full retard they open just after top dead center.  You want to have it so for sure it won't backfire when retarded and you are cranking it.