chris earl uk Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 Hi all, my 1915 Buick cx25 (export) same as c25 is now up and running after a long period of taking it easy. Would someone with a similar early car suggest the material ideal for packing timing gear side gland and water pump glands and size they use please and what soft grease you are using in the grease cups. My shaft is not pitted and in good order. Thank you. Chris , Staffordshire uk. Previously both packed with an assortment of thickness thin string Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 Pull the string packing and measure it to determine the annular space size you need. Wrap the packing around the same size shaft or wood dowel and angle cut packing rings to fit tightly end to end on the pump shaft. Pre-lube with waterproof marine grease and insert three rings with cuts 120 degrees apart. pump packing | McMaster-Carr 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 Talk to local old plumber or plumbing store . Most older hot water circulaters used similar . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris earl uk Posted October 19, 2022 Author Share Posted October 19, 2022 Thank you both . Much appreciated. Being such an early car I really don’t want to do anything unless I’m sure to avoid disaster. Especially being in the uk. Good tip re using same diameter dowel etc to ensure new packing cut correctly. The string based packing has come out in one consolidated piece so I will be able to measure to order a strip of the correct packing material. Do you guys use the graphite impregnated or the ptfe alternative? Regards Chris. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 Graphite only... 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akstraw Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 6 hours ago, chris earl uk said: Thank you both . Much appreciated. Being such an early car I really don’t want to do anything unless I’m sure to avoid disaster. Especially being in the uk. Good tip re using same diameter dowel etc to ensure new packing cut correctly. The string based packing has come out in one consolidated piece so I will be able to measure to order a strip of the correct packing material. Do you guys use the graphite impregnated or the ptfe alternative? Regards Chris. This looks just like the stuff I use in my 1915 C25. I would use graphite, as I believe PTFE is too hard and abrasive. When I worked in a cable factory, PTFE would wear the extrusion dies three times faster than polyethylene. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris earl uk Posted October 19, 2022 Author Share Posted October 19, 2022 (edited) 17 minutes ago, Akstraw said: This looks just like the stuff I use in my 1915 C25. I would use graphite, as I believe PTFE is too hard and abrasive. When I worked in a cable factory, PTFE would wear the extrusion dies three times faster than polyethylene. Thank you. I did see a previous post you had made regarding your c25 there does not seem to be many in use even in America. but as I’m reasonably new to group I could not message you directly. Much appreciated, I’ll measure tomorrow and see what thickness I need to order. Kind regards Chris. Edited October 19, 2022 by chris earl uk (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critterpainter Posted October 20, 2022 Share Posted October 20, 2022 Once you have installed the packing do NOT overtighten it. A slight seep is acceptable. To adjust start the engine first and then slowly tighten the packing nuts. If you hear the engine RPM drop your overtightening things. On many Buicks the timing gear is fibre and can fail due to overtightened water pump packing. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted October 20, 2022 Share Posted October 20, 2022 (edited) No joy in doing this job! On my re-built water pump with new stainless shaft and new bearings the front bearing siezed up taking out the timing gear on my 1925-25. MAKE SURE THE BEARINGS ARE LINE REAMED!!! Then I overtightened the packing on my very worn, leaking pump shaft for my 1925 master 6. Result the same as above. More joy! Edited October 20, 2022 by dibarlaw (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris earl uk Posted October 20, 2022 Author Share Posted October 20, 2022 (edited) Thanks for advice. The Two front glands timing side are straightforward now plenty of room to remove old packing measure up correctly i although…. Rear gland to starter side not so easy can only get 2mm clearance as nut buts up to boss for retaining pin. No where near enough to remove / install new packing. Nut is free from thread but no more room to slide back and rectify packing. can I slacken pump from block and slide pump forward enough to get into packing nut/box. Else it looks like pump may have to come off. Which although I intend to do at some point not really on my list at present time. Thanks Chris First pic shows nut off threads but only allowing tiny 2mm gap. Edited October 20, 2022 by chris earl uk Info incorrect (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akstraw Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 It has been a few years since I re-packed my water pump, but as I recall I had to remove the starter/generator/distributor unit from the car to do the job. I removed the coil from the top of the unit which exposed the coil bracket. I put a steel rod through the two ‘ears’ of the coil bracket, which made a convenient lifting handle for this assembly. It is somewhat heavy. While the unit is out of the car is a good time to oil the ball bearings and grease the distributor gears, too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris earl uk Posted October 21, 2022 Author Share Posted October 21, 2022 26 minutes ago, Akstraw said: It has been a few years since I re-packed my water pump, but as I recall I had to remove the starter/generator/distributor unit from the car to do the job. I removed the coil from the top of the unit which exposed the coil bracket. I put a steel rod through the two ‘ears’ of the coil bracket, which made a convenient lifting handle for this assembly. It is somewhat heavy. While the unit is out of the car is a good time to oil the ball bearings and grease the distributor gears, too. Many thanks. I’m realising one job brings another on this old girl. Painful but worth it as I doubt if the starter Genny has had much attention over the years. My original dizzy has been replaced with a Vw golf Bosch unit believe it or not. And a particularly nice adaptor plate. Believe previous owner struggled to source an original. Looks a bit out of place but guess it’s serviceable. Mech advance retard works fine. Thanks again for your c25 advice. Definitely on my own with this one over here. 🙈 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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