Rafz66riv Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 What brand do you all recommend buying? Or does it not really matter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 I bought a GM SEVERE DUTY ONE TON fan clutch. I have a tendency to over do, but my car does not overheat and my AC throws cold air when I’m at a traffic light. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jframe Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 I second what Turbinator said. Did the same for my '65 back in the summer, and had my radiator redone and a small leak fixed, and no overheating issues. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 Rockauto has various options. I'd probably go with the Hayden 2747 or Four Seasons 36956. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 Thank you I’ll check out the fan clutches. My riv has been over heating and I noticed my fan clutch is free spinning. Hopefully changing this will fix the problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted October 10, 2022 Share Posted October 10, 2022 (edited) If you just grab the fan with engine off they free spin and thats normal. They are very difficult to test, unless of course you see fluid leaking out of it. One of the ways I know they are working is listening for an increase in fan noise after cruising and coming to a stop for a few minutes such as at a light or traffic backup on a warm/hot day, then when you start going again you should be able to hear more fan noise because the thermostat in front sensed increased heat, and in turn increased the fluid resistance internally, which makes the fan spin faster. After cruising for a bit the increased air flow cools the radiator, inturn cooling the thermostat on fan clutch, which allows it to free-wheel and quiet down saving HP. Many fan clutches have been replaced needlessly but if yours is an original, there is no shame in replacing it even if its not the problem. I'd do some investiagtion on condition of radiator before buying a new clutch. Edited October 10, 2022 by JZRIV (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 2 hours ago, JZRIV said: If you just grab the fan with engine off they free spin and thats normal. They are very difficult to test, unless of course you see fluid leaking out of it. One of the ways I know they are working is listening for an increase in fan noise after cruising and coming to a stop for a few minutes such as at a light or traffic backup on a warm/hot day, then when you start going again you should be able to hear more fan noise because the thermostat in front sensed increased heat, and in turn increased the fluid resistance internally, which makes the fan spin faster. After cruising for a bit the increased air flow cools the radiator, inturn cooling the thermostat on fan clutch, which allows it to free-wheel and quiet down saving HP. Many fan clutches have been replaced needlessly but if yours is an original, there is no shame in replacing it even if its not the problem. I'd do some investiagtion on condition of radiator before buying a new clutch. It’s the original clutch. I had recently changed the water pump,thermostat,hoses on my car. Before all the changes it was running good but now it runs hot really fast. I dont’t know what’s going on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted October 10, 2022 Author Share Posted October 10, 2022 2 hours ago, JZRIV said: If you just grab the fan with engine off they free spin and thats normal. They are very difficult to test, unless of course you see fluid leaking out of it. One of the ways I know they are working is listening for an increase in fan noise after cruising and coming to a stop for a few minutes such as at a light or traffic backup on a warm/hot day, then when you start going again you should be able to hear more fan noise because the thermostat in front sensed increased heat, and in turn increased the fluid resistance internally, which makes the fan spin faster. After cruising for a bit the increased air flow cools the radiator, inturn cooling the thermostat on fan clutch, which allows it to free-wheel and quiet down saving HP. Many fan clutches have been replaced needlessly but if yours is an original, there is no shame in replacing it even if its not the problem. I'd do some investiagtion on condition of radiator before buying a new clutch. Also how would I go about testing how good my radiator is? The overheating is a new thing that just started happening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 4 hours ago, JZRIV said: If you just grab the fan with engine off they free spin and thats normal. They are very difficult to test, unless of course you see fluid leaking out of it. One of the ways I know they are working is listening for an increase in fan noise after cruising and coming to a stop for a few minutes such as at a light or traffic backup on a warm/hot day, then when you start going again you should be able to hear more fan noise because the thermostat in front sensed increased heat, and in turn increased the fluid resistance internally, which makes the fan spin faster. After cruising for a bit the increased air flow cools the radiator, inturn cooling the thermostat on fan clutch, which allows it to free-wheel and quiet down saving HP. Many fan clutches have been replaced needlessly but if yours is an original, there is no shame in replacing it even if its not the problem. I'd do some investiagtion on condition of radiator before buying a new clutch. Also have you ever heard of flex fans? Do you recommend them over the original fan and clutch set up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 8 minutes ago, Rafz66riv said: Also have you ever heard of flex fans? Do you recommend them over the original fan and clutch set up? No. Tried that once. Didn’t work as advertised. If your car is running hot at highway speeds (air being forced through the radiator faster than a fan can pull it through) with the a/c off, chances are you need to have your radiator serviced by removing the tanks and rod out the core or replace the core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 4 minutes ago, RivNut said: No. Tried that once. Didn’t work as advertised. If your car is running hot at highway speeds (air being forced through the radiator faster than a fan can pull it through) with the a/c off, chances are you need to have your radiator serviced by removing the tanks and rod out the core or replace the core. I haven’t taken it in the highway yet. But it was running hot while just cruising it 45-50. And my ac is off because it doesn’t work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 Before going crazy, make sure the fins on the condenser and the radiator are not bent over. That brass is soft and easily damaged and bent fins prohibit air flow. You should fins a “fin comb” at your local jobber. Do the fins on the condenser kind ip with or block the fins in the radiator. A/C equipped cars need a shroud to direct air through the condenser and radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 (edited) 3 minutes ago, RivNut said: Before going crazy, make sure the fins on the condenser and the radiator are not bent over. That brass is soft and easily damaged and bent fins prohibit air flow. You should fins a “fin comb” at your local jobber. Do the fins on the condenser kind ip with or block the fins in the radiator. A/C equipped cars need a shroud to direct air through the condenser and radiator. That’s what they look like Edited October 11, 2022 by Rafz66riv (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 Radiator fin comb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 4 minutes ago, RivNut said: Radiator fin comb I know it’s not the greatest pictures but do the fins look that bad. I also think I need to rebuild the radiator because there’s a bunch of rust so that might be clogging things up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 2 minutes ago, Rafz66riv said: I know it’s not the greatest pictures but do the fins look that bad. I also think I need to rebuild the radiator because there’s a bunch of rust so that might be clogging things up Yep, a block flush would be a good idea. The residue in the block can settle below the level of the bottom radiator hose. There are small drain plugs on the sides of the block at the bottom of the water jacket. Open those when you flush the radiator. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 I use oxalic acid ( wood bleach ) to clean rusted bicycle parts. Here’s a thread from a different AACA forum that talks about using oxalic acid to clean the water passages. Oxalic acid will not eat metal. The hotter you can get the solution, the better it works. As you read through the posts in this thread, you can decide for yourself if you want to try it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 22 minutes ago, RivNut said: I use oxalic acid ( wood bleach ) to clean rusted bicycle parts. Here’s a thread from a different AACA forum that talks about using oxalic acid to clean the water passages. Oxalic acid will not eat metal. The hotter you can get the solution, the better it works. As you read through the posts in this thread, you can decide for yourself if you want to try it. Thank you I’ll looks into that. Because I know for sure it going to be nasty and full of rust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 14 minutes ago, Rafz66riv said: Thank you I’ll looks into that. Because I know for sure it going to be nasty and full of rust If it was fine before you changed the water pump. thermostat. etc common sense dictates you likely installed an inferior part or created a labor related issue....just because a part is new out of the box doesn't necessarily mean it is performing properly. For instance...I have had several rebuilt Nailhead water pumps in which the impeller was slipping on the shaft when loaded = not enough coolant flow. If the car was not overheating before the recent work then start by going back over your parts/work. Tom Mooney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 18 minutes ago, Rafz66riv said: Thank you I’ll looks into that. Because I know for sure it going to be nasty and full of rust Read the thread through a couple of times to sort out some of the conflicting posts. Then “Google” the same thing and read some more before deciding what to do. IMHO, with your engine running and the cooling system sealed, you’re in a good position to do a few of the hot water sealed flushes. I commented that oxalic acid is AKA Wood Bleach. A small tub at Lowes/Home Depot will run you around $10. If you buy a 5 or 10 pound bag off eBay, you’ll pay twice as much but get about 10 times as much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 34 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said: If it was fine before you changed the water pump. thermostat. etc common sense dictates you likely installed an inferior part or created a labor related issue....just because a part is new out of the box doesn't necessarily mean it is performing properly. For instance...I have had several rebuilt Nailhead water pumps in which the impeller was slipping on the shaft when loaded = not enough coolant flow. If the car was not overheating before the recent work then start by going back over your parts/work. Tom Mooney We’ll it was running good. But the only reason why I changed the water pump and thermostat was because I had taken the car out on a cruise and it got hot so I flushed it, then water pump started leaking, so I change it as well as the thermostat. But since I’ve got it running it been running hot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 On 10/10/2022 at 1:53 PM, Rafz66riv said: Thank you I’ll check out the fan clutches. My riv has been over heating and I noticed my fan clutch is free spinning. Hopefully changing this will fix the problem I came at it with full diagnostics. 160 degree thermostat, hidden 2 litre coolant overflow tank, heavy duty clutch fan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafz66riv Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 3 hours ago, Turbinator said: I came at it with full diagnostics. 160 degree thermostat, hidden 2 litre coolant overflow tank, heavy duty clutch fan It put new rad hoses,160 thermostat, and the water pump. I just haven’t changed the clutch fan, and I believe it’s the original one too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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