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Riviera 1963 performance voltage regulator question


Ocotillo Bandit

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Hello all

I am replacing my OEM type alternator with a higher amp rated at about 135 amps, I was recommended by the vendor to replace my external solid state voltage regulator by a hi quality one and stay away fron Auto Zone cheap ones.

I come to you friends for advice on this matter. What brand or store do you recommend me to buy from or what's your experience with these hi amp type of alternators and external regulators?

Or send link to any discussion 

I will also replace the wire with a 6 AWG gauge kit with fuse.

Thanks for your help folks.

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If it were me I would get a 1 wire GM 12si style alternator. It has an internal regulator. You run your 6g wire to the positive boss on the drivers fender. Your original regulator will overheat. Select an alternator with the rear plug for your original  blue/white wiring so your ammeter or warning light will function.

 

These are all New Made in USA:

 

Alternators & Generators at Summit Racing

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I myself don't see a need for a 135amp alt. unless you may be adding a serious sound system or amp demanding electrics/electronics.

A 100 amp. internally regulated alt. should be more than is needed & in this case you could get away with the original 10ga. wiring.

You could add a fusible link in the wiring to help protect the car & electrics.

Just my thoughts on the subject.

 

Tom T.

 

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23 hours ago, telriv said:

A 100 amp. internally regulated alt. should be more than is needed

I went with a 61A 10SI rebuilt unit. Already a problem with the internal regulator.

I'd go for a 10SI Bosch Unit. However, it is not available with the desired 6:00 O'Clock connector. Only with a 3:00 connector which would put it near the exhaust manifold. Perhaps using a fire proof wrap will protect the 2 wires.

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11 minutes ago, XframeFX said:

I went with a 61A 10SI rebuilt unit. Already a problem with the internal regulator.

I'd go for a 10SI Bosch Unit. However, it is not available with the desired 6:00 O'Clock connector. Only with a 3:00 connector which would put it near the exhaust manifold. Perhaps using a fire proof wrap will protect the 2 wires.

 

 

If the Bosch is like other alternators, the case can be “clocked” by loosening the through bolts enough to loosen the case from the face. WITHOUT removing the case, rotate it to the correct orientation.   
 

There are videos on YouTube that show how to clock an alternator.  If you’re uncomfortable doing it yourself, there should be a person at the jobber where you bought it who can do it for you.

 

 

 

 

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, RivNut said:

 

 

If the Bosch is like other alternators, the case can be “clocked” by loosening the through bolts enough to loosen the case from the face. WITHOUT removing the case, rotate it to the correct orientation.   
 

There are videos on YouTube that show how to clock an alternator.  If you’re uncomfortable doing it yourself, there should be a person at the jobber where you bought it who can do it for you.

 

 

 

 

Ed is correct,when I used a vintage air alternator bracket I had to clock mine because it was to close to the exhaust.You can do it yourself,very easy.I didn't know either until bulldog driver schooled me on it.

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