Chrysler B 70 1924

[Hans 47]

Just bought a Chrysler B 70 1924 model. The main brake cylinder is stuck. Wondering if anyone has a tip on getting the piston loose. Would also need tips on where to buy the rubber gaskets for the brake system on this car.  Grateful for answers and tips. Best regards, Hans-Bertil (Sweden)

[Narve N]

Penetrating oil, careful heating (piston is likely aluminum), freezing (put in fridge for 24 hours), and then bang it out using a socket slightly smaller in diameter than the piston and a plastic mallet and a wood block under the M/C. Or if you can find a grease zerk that fits any of the threads, use a grease gun and pressurize the M/C apart.

Measure the diameter and seek repair kit replacement through size. If you are lucky the diameter is the same as used in all Mopar until 1940ish and very common (1-1/4"?),. although no vendors list parts for a 1924-1927 Chrysler anymore.

 

Cheers from Norway, I am currently restoring my 3rd 1929 Chrysler

[Hans 47]

Thanks for the help
I got it loose
Now I need a gasket that is 1 5/8 "(approx. 41.3 mm)
Does anyone have any tips on where I can buy such a master cylinder gasket

[cricketkj26]

Nice looking Phaeton!  The 4 wheel hydraulic brake system is made by Lockheed. Original Wheel cylinder seals were leather.  

Now a days they are buna N or Viton rubber. I have a 25 G70 2 door coach ( built in Oct/Nov 25). I am not a professional mechanic

or machinist. Im just a do everything myself type that has worked on all kinds of gas & diesel stuff - but NOT REAL OLD car stuff. I Have learned  

alot about these first original mid twenties Chryslers and still have quite alot to still learn and ask about. Ive made some blunders too.  

First there are no parts kits any more for the Lockheed 4 wheel hydraulic brake system on these 24 thru 27 Chryslers. On mine -All four wheel 

cylinders and the master were leaking badly. Here in the US the wheel cylinders and master cylinder are rebuilt by boring out the cylinders  

due to alot pitting and corrosion, then installing stainless steel or brass sleeve liners, with new pistons and rubber seals to fit. That 

procedure is not a do it yourself and there is not many shops that know how to do it correctly. Narve's procedures to free the piston must have

worked. Hopefully You can find a premade seal of some type that will work. Please let us know. I have now completed the brake system rebuild

including replacing all the brake band linings, all new copper lines, new copper sealing rings with the centering tabs, resleeved cylinders, ect, ect. 

Have not added the fluid and bled the system yet.  From the comments of folks on the forum Im expecting Leaks from the wheel cylinders and 

master and some of them will probably have to go back to the shop that did the resleeving. Std Dot 3 brake fluid will dissolve the paint off anything  

it gets on so regularly check for leaks and attend to them quickly. I realize all this was not your question.  But hopefully other folks may find something

useful.  There are folks on this forum that have many years experience and are very knowledgeable on these early first generation Chryslers. 

They share a great deal of info and Tips.  Thanks and apologies for the long commentary.  CricketKJ26  If Im in left field on anything i stated

by all means you folks please pipe up and advise. 

 

[Hans 47]

Tack för svaret. Jag hittade gummipackningen till huvudcylindern 1 5/8" här i Sverige, så den är nu utbytt. Nu återstår det att titta på hjulcylindrarna också innan jag börjar köra med bilen

Thanks for the reply. I found the rubber gasket for the master cylinder 1 5/8" here in Sweden, so it is now replaced. Now it remains to look at the wheel cylinders as well before I start driving with the car

Edited June 8, 2022 by Hans 47 (see edit history)

[Dave Deppe]

I have a 1924 B70 Phaeton. My wheel cylinders are a standard 1 1/2" diameter seal. I bought the rebuild kits at NAPA,  a common parts store here in the US. Raybestos part number WK104.

There is a company here in the US called White Post Restoration that bored out the wheel cylinders and installed sleeves in them. The bore is just straight through, a relatively easy thing to do for a shop with the right equipment.

That's a wonderful looking car you have!

[Hans 47]

Thanks for the info.   I'll check my wheel cylinders next week.

Right now I'm working on the water pump that's leaking water. Here, too, a new gasket is needed.  

Yours sincerely,

Hans-Bertil

[Hans 47]

A little more questions about my Chrysler B-70 1924.

(My brakes and the water pump are now ok again.)

Unfortunately I don't have an instruction manual for the car, but I saw that it has a replaceable oil filter.

My question is, are these filters obtainable?

If not, how do you, who have these cars, do with your filters, can they be washed?

I have not yet set out to disassemble the box it is apparently in, does anyone have a tip on how to access the filter.

What do you need to remove to access it?

 

Is there any instruction manual to get hold of, perhaps as a reprint?

 

One more question. The car sounds pretty much in the gearbox in 1 and 2nd gear.

It also sounds a some in the third but much less.

It rattles in the box, you could say.  

I imagine it normally sounds some in the gearbox when the car is running, or what is your opinion in te matter?

Best regards from Sweden

Hans-Bertil

[leomara]

Never saw one of those.  However on my 1928 Model 72 the Chrysler oil filter was a throw away canister where the filter was sealed inside.  Some previous owner substituted a canister with a lid paper element filter commonly used by many cars in later years.

[28 Chrysler]

These were throw aways and were good for 5,000 miles.

The test for replacement is with the engine running un-do  the return line (under the starter) and watch for oil.

The pot metal parts are fragile and there are no replacements so I do not recommend loosening the line on the filter.

You may be able to back flush the filter with acetone or kerosene, I have not done this. 

The oil is not 100% filtered so a plugged filter will not harm much.

 

Edited July 12, 2022 by 28 Chrysler (see edit history)

[Hans 47]

Thanks for the info.  It was very good to find out that the filter is fragile.

Have you replaced the original filter with a new one that sits on the original copper tubes, or where does the new one sit?

Hans-Bertil

[Dave Deppe]

On the noise from the gearbox - my 1924 B70 is noisy in 1st and 2nd gear. These are straight cut gears and other Chryslers I have ridden in sound the same. Top gear is direct drive so there would be no gears meshing, making it much quieter.

 

I have two different owners manual revisions for the B70. Please send me the serial number of your car, as there were running design changes made which caused revisions to be made in the manual. I should be able to scan the pages and send them to you if we an figure out a way to transfer large files.

 

There is a good chance you could get a copy of the owners manual from the Chrysler Historical Office in Detroit if they still exist. I contacted them in March 2020 and they sent me copies of some original sales literature for my car. At that time this was their address:

 

FCA Historical Services

12501 Chrysler Freeway

CIMS 410-11-21

Detroit, MI 46288 

 

My 1924 has a Purolator bypass oil filter mounted on the firewall. This has a steel housing with a removable paper element inside. These were a fairly common accessory item during the 1920's but I have no idea if this was original to the car. See photos. You can still buy new filter elements for these.

 

 

[Hans 47]

Hi Dave

Many thanks for your reply.  My car has chassis number 7745. The engine number is 31748 and at the top it says 5/5 1924 in a sheet metal screwed to the cylinder head.

I have also found a number that sits under the driver's seat which I assume is the body number B357 (See photos)

I have been in contact with Stellantis Historical Services at the same adress so it remains. My question to them  was when my car was manufactured but they could not answer that, because they did not have such information before 1930. I will contact them again but am grateful if I could get a copy of the instruction manual you have.

It should be possible to send the pictures in a few emails.  hansson.hans.bertil@gmail.com   Thanks also for the information about the oil filter, I will try to find something like that for my car. 

Is it possible that there is any such oil filter housing to be found in the United States? 

Is there any company in the U.S. that specializes in parts for Chrysler?

In my car there is a keyhole behind the gear lever. I guess if I had a key, it would have been possible to lock the gear lever in some position? (See photo)

Best regards

Hans-Bertil

[keiser31]

The lock on the transmission is an anti-theft device.

[Dave Deppe]

Mine is S/N 8821, engine number 32913. The chassis number is also stamped on the top of the frame at the left rear, near the spring mount.

 

I will scan the owners manual and email that to you.

 

Kind Regards,

Dave Deppe

 

[Flivverking]

Don't be affraid to use HEAT! to lossen wheel cylinder pistons frozen in Iron.

  Heat well but far from red..

A propane home torch will do but it's slow to get really toasty..

 

 Once smoking hot.. toss in a cool bucket of water to quench.

It may take a few tries...

  Avoid bubbling old fluid and fumes and melting rubber ozzing out.

Googles and gloves a must.

Remember to free frozen similar metal use heat. To free up disimilar metals you quench and you can't quench untill you heat.