str8asylum60 Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 (edited) Hi, I am a first time car owner, and out of all the cars I could have chosen, I bought a car older than me. I have an 89 Buick reatta coupe v6 3.8L 3800 fuel injection. 148,000 miles The spaceship has some holes in the exhaust. Small. And the air compressor is staying wide open…my car runs rough. Rpm’s are anywhere between 725-950 idling. As soon as I put it in gear, it shakes, and threatens to shut off. Other times, it will take off. When I first try to start it, I’m having to flood the engine and rev it hard when it starts. Only way to keep it on at a red light is to rev the engine with one foot on the brake and one on the gas reving it when it threatens to do that. The rpms will drop to 0 if I put it in reverse. There will be times when I’m driving on a straight road, and all of a sudden the engine shits off. Lights are still on, computer is still on, etc. sometimes, I can restart it by turning it off, putting it in park, starting it, and immediately put it in drive. I’ve gotten stranded, almost stuck on the highway…it’s been insane. I’ve already replaced the coil pack, and the spark plug wires and put fuel injector cleaner in it. Supposedly, my fuel injectors are clogged (still). And if I let it sit for a bit, sometimes it will start, but this morning it just wouldn’t. It would turn over, gripping on to dear life, cause it certainly *wants* to start, but just won’t. My engine is not seized, it sat for a year before I bought it a month ago. I’ve been able to drive it a total of a week since I had it…I’m at my wits end, and throwing parts at it is wayyy to expensive right now. Any help would be appreciated… I HAVE THE SERVICE MANUAL! Edited May 23, 2022 by str8asylum60 Adding that I have a service manual (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 How mechanical are you? Is the check engine light on? It is likely it has more than one issue and it is important you know how to access the built in diagnostics. Coil pack was replaced but how about the ICM under the coils? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handmedownreatta Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 3 hours ago, 2seater said: How mechanical are you? Is the check engine light on? It is likely it has more than one issue and it is important you know how to access the built in diagnostics. Coil pack was replaced but how about the ICM under the coils? is the icm leaking? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted May 23, 2022 Share Posted May 23, 2022 I am betting on the ignition module under the coils or the Crank sensor especially because now it won't start. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Jake Moran Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 13 hours ago, DAVES89 said: I am betting on the ignition module under the coils or the Crank sensor especially because now it won't start. A good place to start. I hope this car was basically free. I hate to see young people get taken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 52 minutes ago, B Jake Moran said: A good place to start. I hope this car was basically free. I hate to see young people get taken. I'm pretty sure it is a low cost Reatta. Look at that dent [very expensive repair] the antenna up [probably means not working] and missing wheel hub covers. Just guessing but i'll bet there are headlight issues as well. Should have got it for less then $2000.00 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
str8asylum60 Posted May 24, 2022 Author Share Posted May 24, 2022 I got this car for $900. I have all the wheel hub covers on now, the radio works just fine, there is indeed headlight issues as far as retracting and putting them up. I have a new door for $100 more from the people I bought it from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 Before you spend another dime unplug the airflow sensor the next time it won't start without your foot to the floor, if it starts right up and runs smooth get a new one, or clean the heck out of the one you have and hope for the best. The ignition module under the coils or the crank sensor and a sticky relay in the fuse box under the hood, are the most likely causes for your operational stalling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 Since you have a service manual, first study it from end to end. Everything has a diagnostic procedure. Then pay attention to the built in scan tool that begins on page 8D-4. The idle problem sounds like a dirty IAC or possibly a failing TPS. (acronyms on 0A-15) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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