1926 Chrysler front bumper

[Tonz]

Hi all,

After browsing many photos of 26 Chrysler 50s I have noticed all the other cars have straight front bumpers with the curved back ends.

Well my bumpers have a recurve in the centre, and they seem unique.

If anyone knows better, should my bumpers be straight.

I have read that they came out sans bumpers, which were an accessory. So these could be AU made.

They actually fit properly and clear the front wheel movements, so it does not look like crash damage.

 

Thanks

[JRA]

You right to say bumpers were optional in 1926 for this model. I believe export cars, depending on price range and import charges, would be frequently shipped in the standard features. In this period, the bumpers should be straight, with curved ends. 
For sure local manufacturers for this common option would be easy to find at that time.

 

[viv w]

Hi Tonz,

 Yes bumpers were an option when your car was built and there were probably several manufacturers. 

 Your bumpers and the brackets attaching them to the chassis frame appear to be bent, especially in the middle. I would say it has run into a pole or tree smack in the middle of the bumper. The brackets attaching to the frame are bent outwards and will need to be straightened, then you will have room to sort out the bumper itself.

I'm attaching a few pictures with 2 versions of what it should look like, have fun with some heat or a press to straighten them.

regards Viv.

 

 

 

 

 

[Gunsmoke]

First problem is the bumper bracket is mounted backwards, the curved outer ends of the bracket should turn towards the tires. This bracket may also need a bit of tweaking so center mounting point will allow bumper to be in a straight line (like Viv's photos show). Then it should be a matter of straightening the 2 front bars, not an easy task as they are typically heavy spring steel. A heavy truck shop should have a spring  re-arching machine to set them correct for you if you take them all 3 pieces. That's what I would do, make a diagram for the shop showing what you want end product to look like (and take along a photo of correct one) and they can typically sort it out in an hour or so with the right gear. Biggest risk is if they are not careful and snap a bar, but that's the risk you take. BTW, these are virtually impossible to reshape on your own even with the best of vices/mauls/heat. I've edited this to add a 1926 Chrysler showing the front bumper setup. Note the clamps to secure bracket to brackets coming off frame horns are more substantial then the "U" bolts on yours.  

 

Edited April 27, 2022 by Gunsmoke (see edit history)

[JFranklin]

It Looks like your car hit a tree dead-on center. A bit of hydraulic press work and it may end up looking like it should!

I think Gunsmoke has the answer.

Edited April 26, 2022 by JFranklin (see edit history)

[Tonz]

Thanks for these responses, got me on track now.

Another question.

I have also noticed some cars have the short round bar between the chassis horns, and others don't. Wondering if it is a year/ model item and if it's necessary.

If you compare the Gunsmoke/ VivW photos you will see what I mean.

 

Thanks, very helpful.

[viv w]

The 4 cyl models 50, 52 and 58 did not have the bar across the front of the chassis/frame.

[Gunsmoke]

There were a variety of means of bolting up. Check your long brace for 2 old bolt holes, that should help you figure out where the original clamps went, and based on their spacing, just what type of secondary bracket went to car chassis. Typically the U-bolts were much closer to frame horns, as this left a 2' cantilever of rear brace in front of each wheel to allow it to flex on impact with something without kinking/bending. So typically the clamps would be 1" or 2" from outside of frame horns. The rusty car shows the special frame bracket with an "eye" on end to take a vertical bolt. Those may be tough to find, but a spring shop can do that if you really wanted to match originals, mind you, you would have to make a very accurate pattern as the bolt location in side of frame are critical and the "eye" must be perfectly vertical when installed. Once you have figured out what configuration you want (any choice will be fine) ask for missing parts in buy/sell area.

[Tonz]

Thanks all, your advice is gold.

One thing I've learnt over the years is if  something gets bent, you can bend it back. Luckily I have a huge blacksmiths vice and some heavy persuader dinosaur tools.

Thanks for the accurate photos, my method was to chalk out half of the bar shapes on floor, flip the bars over to repeat opposite end.

The chassis mounts are 2"X3/8" bar which is beyond me to rework, but they are fairly even and straight, so they and the mounting hardware will stay.

I aim has been to get this old car going using as many of the original components as possible, as I not chasing a factory resto, but to bring it back to how it survived nearly a century on a outback farm.

 

Thanks all.

[JFranklin]

You could still chain the center to a tree and back up until all the rest of the bow is gone. Just don't get carried away!

[Oldtech]

Nice job!