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1950 Buick straight 8 head removal.


Mr. Reed

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  • 1 month later...
On 11/6/2022 at 2:53 PM, Mr. Reed said:

Some progress today. Fuel pump is in,  crankcase vent for engine and the generator bracket is bolted in. Next step is the head and valvetrain needs to be put on the engine.

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 Nick, I hope I am not too late.  That is a pretty painted engine.  Hopefully the area behind the motor mount bracket on the passenger side and the back of the bracket were left shiny bare.  Paint is not a good electric conductor and this is where the battery grounds.

 

  Ben

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1 minute ago, Mr. Reed said:

So the part that needs to be bare. Is it the big bracket where the engine mount puck sits in the passenger side or on the engine itself ?

  

Both where they touch. Passenger side.  I sanded the engine block to bare metal and the back of the bracket to bare metal.      Also,  two of the four bracket mounting bolt holes are "through" holes.   I failed to use sealer on those bolts and they LEAKED!   I took them out and used thread sealer on the bolt threads.

 

  Ben

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  • 2 weeks later...

There are 2 main sections to the wire harness.   The underdash and engine is one harness and the body and rear harness is the other harness.   They plug together at the A piller about 16" up from the floor.   There are other smaller harnesses that are needed to finish the job.    I won't comment on manufacturers as I don't know who survived covid.

 

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It seems that the wiring harness runs about a thousand dollars. The banker is kinda tight fisted these days so that will have to wait until the cars running again. I don't think it's hard to wire the car with the engine in it. I hope. I am no electrician by any means. My dad is an electrical engineer by trade so I will need help haha.

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When you decide to take this project, make sure to track which wires go through holes in the firewall.  Also note if the wires lay between the firewall and the firewall insulation or if the wires are installed after the firewall insulator is in place.  It is also important to note which terminal on the Fuel Sender is the "common" terminal coming off the ignition switch.    If you get this wrong you fry the fuel gauge.

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I know I've gotten off the engines head part of this article but does anyone have a picture of their hoods underside. I want to know how the hood insulation routes because mine is all gone with just slivers hanging. I bought replacement insulation but can't find any really good pics online. Much appreciated. Also is the underside of the hood to be painted the color of the car or a different shade of black thanks.

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Ok so I talked to the company who makes that harness I saw on eBay and they said there is two differences. One the car can be a late or early 50 and the heater and defroster knob are spaced apart or right next to each other but that's what I gather so far. What is an early or late? Anyone got a picture of the knobs next to each other ? Thanks. Nick.

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On the engine to transmission there is two fill plugs for the convertor that have to be put back in. There is 6 studs in the transmission that look like they may have nuts when it gets to the engine and 6 nuts welded to the back of the engine. Does anyone have a picture of the bolts in the back of the engine thanks.

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On 10/8/2023 at 7:34 PM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

Nick, maybe, maybe not.  Check your shop manual. Several different diagrams. 

 

  Ben

Is the special engine longer than the supers? I am mostly worried about the wire length. I'd hate to buy the harness and have it come up short.

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The only risk is that some accessory(ies) are located differently and some wire lengths could differ.  If the harness is long, no biggie, but if some wire is too short you'll need to splice an extension.  If it were my car, I'd probably take the chance and deal with any minor issues...

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