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Reublic truck parts wtd


blastermike

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11 hours ago, blastermike said:

Wanted parts for 1920  11X  1 1/2 ton ton Republic truck, has continental monbloc engine

i need a carburetor, (stromberg m1)

The M-1 comes in a number of different venturii. Make sure you get the correct one for your application. With the different venturii, the M-1 was used on engines from 87 to 350 CID.

 

Jon.

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For your mag it might help to ID your Cont'l---looks like if original should be "N", often listed as "N-NA" in catalogs...(NA MIGHT'VE been Unit Power Plant (Eng/clutch/trans together, usually bolted but occasionally with one casting)...

.00PS---watch it---looks like there was an 11X 2Ton with a different engine...

Edited by Bud Tierney
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Hi bud, you are right its engine nos is

113287 N.    and theres another box with 

date, but no date just. 3 3/4. which i take is piston diameter?

the republic list of chassis nos puts it in 1920. Chassis nos 11XR 12704  im assuming the R stands for righthand drive?, i will add some pics of the remains of the hand controls

thanks mike

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DF2409FB-E070-492C-898C-EE9D36A25E4E.jpeg

Edited by blastermike
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So far so good on the mag---the N=NA was very popolar, so should be owners around to let you know what mag's on theirs---

The N/NA was issued in two bores---31/2 and 33/4---but the 33/4 one is apparently the mostly used truck engine; don't know if they came with different mags...

Suggest you make a new post---looking for mag for Cont'l  N-NA 33/4 bore---should turn up help...

OGood luck!!ne of the vintage electrical parts dealers may have books specifying which you need or what will work...

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  • 4 weeks later...

@blastermike

Somebody mentioned we're working on very similar truck projects.

 

Right down to the same rear-end (I think).  Although I have pneumatic tires on mine.  Commerce brand.

 

What is your engine  number?  Data plate on the right front of the engine.

 

It was mentioned in my post that the bore may also be listed on the data plate.

 

1504197960_ContinentalEngineDataPlate.th

 

I'm still trying to determine the year of my truck. 

 

Mine has a Bijur 6V generator (not sure of the model) coupled to a Robert Bosch ZU4 magneto.

 

Magneto.thumb.jpg.3881ce860984499c0ddd53

 

I am planning to make a tool to remove the sparkplug/valve bungs in the next week or two.

 

Unfortunately, my steering wheel is in worse shape than yours  :(

 

I'm completely missing the carburetor.  So...  I can't help you there.

 

Is that the upper radiator tank on the side of the truck rails?  Slightly different from mine, although I've wondered if there was a common manufacturer for truck radiators.  There is a video of the Pacific Northwest Truck Museum that shows a Kenworth with a similar radiator design (to my Commerce).

 

I should have the radiator out shortly.

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Mike - in the for what its worth category, checking both the factory Zenith and Stromberg records:

 

Zenith - no record of a sale to Republic for the 11X; no record of a T-4 sold to Continental for the model N engine.

 

Stromberg - sold the M-1 to Republic for use on the 11X

 

Of course, these records are 100 years old ;)

 

The Stromberg M-1 is much more common than the Zenith T-4 (you have to complete with the motorcycle dudes for the T-4), and parts also are much more common.

 

Jon.

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Hi jon

i have spoken with another republic 11x owner who told me the carb on his continental n engine was a zenith T4 he did say it could of been non original but it was attached to the inlet tube and looked in the same condition as the rest of his unrestored truck, if the stromberg m1 is correct ? do you know what venturi size m1 it should be ? or are all m1 carbs the same?  also would the zenith t4 work on this engine?

appreciate your help and advice on this matter, 

thanks mike

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Mike - without pulling a print, I don't know the venturi size of either.

 

Either, with the proper venturi, would work well on the truck.

 

Each has probably 5 or so different venturii.

 

When we were still building carbs, we would just start with the correct housing, and machine the necessary internal parts; sounds expensive, but really less so than trying to find exactly the correct calibration in a used carburetor.

 

From a pot-luck standpoint, an unknown M-1 has a better chance of having a reasonably correct venturi and corresponding jets than the T-4, as a large percentage of the M-1's were used on engines in the 220~240 CID range, where the majority of the T-4's were used on engines in the 170~180 CID range.

 

Jon

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Hi jon, ok sounds like my best bet is to find an m1, i have just bought a zenith T4, so if i get one of each i may have a good chance of having something that will work, thank you very much for your help

Dale all the wheels on my truck need rebuilding, the front and rears have 14 spokes and look heavier and are more square shaped, 

im thinking your wheels could be for the smaller model 10 or model E ? as they came in 1 ton size, the spokes are rounded and theres only 12 

thanks for the offer and im sure theres someone out there who needs them,

 Mike

pic of a rear and front wheel

F3B5A86C-5CDB-4BC2-AD52-7BBA35CD09C7.jpeg

1302BA4D-7070-414A-BB0D-52084C204E12.jpeg

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Mike, those wheels look pretty solid in the photos. I would suggest getting some West System Epoxy and maybe thinning it slightly, then painting it on with a brush. The wood will suck it in and dry spots will appear. At that point you need to put a little more on and again and again until it stops showing dry spots. Best done on a hot day outside.

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Your wheels look a lot like mine, but with the the difference of solid rubber vs pneumatic. 

 

Coker says they'll rebuild the wood on wheels, with good metal parts supplied by the customer.  However, nothing mentions prices.  And, with all their other prices, I'd expect them to cost an arm and a leg.

 

Several people have mentioned that I need to look for Amish wheelwrights who might do it for a reasonable price.  But, I need to get my metal parts sorted out before I try anything.

 

Of course, you also have to deal with the solid rubber tires.

 

It looks like these guys can take a pile of bits and pieces and return some pretty looking wheels and tires.

https://overmancushion.com/

 

In my case, I'm currently hunting for the rims, but may try rolling my own (or modifying what I do find, if I can't find any I like. 

 

Then I'll try my hand at building wheels.  The basic concept seems pretty straight forward, although I'm a bit worried about cutting perfect miters.

 

Like yours, my spokes, both front and back are primarily a modified square, and should be within what can be made with simple tools. 

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Calimers, in Pennsylvania, will take your metal parts and make you new wheels. There is a buggy place in Ohio, I'd have to  look up the name, that makes buggy wheels. They could do the work as well. It's not that hard, if you know what your doing. You just have to bend the second growth hickory into a perfect circle,then cut your spokes and press them into the wheels, then center cut the hub perfectly in the center. Got a 24" lathe? You can do it with a mill but its harder to center.

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10 minutes ago, AHa said:

Got a 24" lathe? You can do it with a mill but its harder to center.

I picked up a couple of fairly large pottery wheels a while ago.

 

It shouldn't be that hard to make something that could spin a fairly large piece of wood, but not as easy to cut large steel circles, although one might be able to grind steel circles.

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There was a gent in the Portland area who did wood wheels, always had a display at the swap meet. Last time I talked to him, 3 or 4 years ago  he was thinking about retiring or downsizing to just Model T wheels. .  He may have retired by now .

 

 

Greg

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Mike, do you know who made your steering box ? Chances are Republic bought in the steering gear complete , pitman arm to steering wheel.  The top controls were most likely

used on a number of other vehicles besides your particular model of Republic. Do you have any photo's from another truck to give us an idea of what the controls should look like ?

 

Greg

Edited by 1912Staver (see edit history)
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Hi greg, hows things going for you mate? I have bought a quadrant piece and one lever which is off an earlier truck from a helpful forum member, the horn button is part of the lever, mine has a seperate steel button on top, yeh i reckon your right and the controls would be a bought in item as it is an assembled truck, i havent looked to see what make the gearbox is but ill check it out and let you know 

cheers mike

BC5F9CED-E674-4812-B4D7-373E4D660E6A.jpeg

3BCD8B81-1B99-4C12-AC30-F351E03DB139.jpeg

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11 minutes ago, blastermike said:

Hi greg, hows things going for you mate? I have bought a quadrant piece and one lever which is off an earlier truck from a helpful forum member, the horn button is part of the lever, mine has a seperate steel button on top, yeh i reckon your right and the controls would be a bought in item as it is an assembled truck, i havent looked to see what make the gearbox is but ill check it out and let you know 

cheers mike

BC5F9CED-E674-4812-B4D7-373E4D660E6A.jpeg

 

That may well be similar to what is missing on my Commerce truck.  I don't know if I took a photo of the steering. 

 

So the lower part is rigid, and the upper part turns?  Throttle?

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Hi clifford,  probably best to try and find someone who has a complete commerce truck similar as yours, and ask for pictures and info of the parts your missing so you know what to look for, thats what ive done,

the quadrant is rigid and there are two levers, one for the spark advance/retard and another lever for the throttle, i wouldnt be surprised if the steering box and controls were from the same manutacturer?

mike

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24 minutes ago, blastermike said:

Hi clifford,  probably best to try and find someone who has a complete commerce truck similar as yours, and ask for pictures and info of the parts your missing so you know what to look for, thats what ive done,

the quadrant is rigid and there are two levers, one for the spark advance/retard and another lever for the throttle, i wouldnt be surprised if the steering box and controls were from the same manutacturer?

mike

I know the Model T had a spark advance.

 

But, I don't remember seeing anything going to the magneto with a spark advance.  I'll have to look at it a bit closer.  I had assumed that I had two levers coming off of the steering, but that "quadrant" looks like it could match.

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