avgwarhawk

1960 Torque Tube R&R

Recommended Posts

Your point is deeper. There are guys driving around who gently use their brakes for fear of blowing a line or locking up a wheel or two with a little extra touch. Some don't need a speedometer because of the variations of sounds and vibrations at different speeds. Some have antique matchbooks or folded cardboard under the edge of the dash to stop annoying sounds.

 

Once I got a Buick with a very elaborate array of old, yellowed, vibration wedges at the edge of the padded dash. Intolerant, as I am, of such displays I threw them all away and replaced them with a short piece of rubber hose between the transmission modulator line and the intake manifold.

 

Never accept less than what came off the showroom floor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

9 minutes ago, old-tank said:

 

You made my point Bernie :D.  Leave it alone if just tooling around locally within limping distance of home; fix it now if you drive far away.  Much cheaper and less stressful to fix at home than pay someone far away or pay to have it shipped back home.  This is a foreseeable problem unlike a broken axle and fuel starvation problems that interrupted two of my cross country trips (water pump and generator failures were just a nuisance since spares are carried). 

 

It is forums such as this that help make decisions in some instances.  Bernies post of the squeak at his u-joint that eventually failed I kept in my memory bank.  This summer, backing out of the garage there was a rotational squeak , but only in reverse.  In my mind, the u-joint could be going bad as noted from Bernies experience with a squeaking u-joint. I kept tabs on it.   Mine  recently however, started as a low growl only from 0-40 mph.  I'm thinking low front pump pressure per the manual trouble shooting.  Sometimes the noise was not present from 0-40. It was a bit elusive but the u-joint was forefront of my mind as the culprit.   Then growling started from 0-50 and beyond.  Then she started squeaking in forward drive.  Then it started clicking.  All of this in just driving 15 miles!  I nursed her home.  Pulled the rear.   The forums and people posting their failures of parts and successes in repairs are invaluable.       

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was looking at your last picture. It looks like you figured out rolling the rearend on bare rims too. Great minds.

Bernie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

I was looking at your last picture. It looks like you figured out rolling the rearend on bare rims too. Great minds.

Bernie

 

I have the drums on.  The drums are cradled on my casters I used to move the cars around in the garage.   I did it this way because I have to push the rear back under the 60 to make room for my 54 when I finish working on the 60 and park the 54 in the garage for the night.   

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More scraping of road grime. The pumpkin is a copper tone to my eye. Interesting parts were painted like they were.

 

 

 

IMAG1552.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine shortly before install..  quickie black paint job with the "red" primer pumpkin.

rear_together.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My entire differential housing was orange, even on the inside. I'm guessing they painted them after machining to differentiate which ones were done and set and which ones weren't. Kind of like how bolts and other pieces like axles are marked with a paint pen when finalized.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excuse my ignorance, but why does the later torque tube have a rear u-joint?  Is the tube itself angled to clear the floor?  I've looked at Bernie's picture of a disassembled torque tube, but I think I'm still missing the point...My '53 only has one at the front.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

2 minutes ago, Aaron65 said:

Excuse my ignorance, but why does the later torque tube have a rear u-joint?  Is the tube itself angled to clear the floor?  I've looked at Bernie's picture of a disassembled torque tube, but I think I'm still missing the point...My '53 only has one at the front.

 

At the pinion end there is angle in the tube where the u-joint is housed.  The angle I believe allows the axle to be horizontal to the ground while in motion.   It may also help translate  or handle the torque better with the additional u-joint.   Only conjecture.    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Beemon said:

My entire differential housing was orange, even on the inside.

 

Here's mine lightly preped.

RR8a.thumb.jpg.f8d3426fc870355ca112345dd07571c4.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Aaron65 said:

Excuse my ignorance, but why does the later torque tube have a rear u-joint?  Is the tube itself angled to clear the floor?  I've looked at Bernie's picture of a disassembled torque tube, but I think I'm still missing the point...My '53 only has one at the front.

 

 I have always thought it had to do with maintaining the angle while keeping the differential level, as Chris said.  As bodies were lowered.

 

  Ben

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The old joint gave up the ghost without much struggle.  One cap had a few needle bearings and was loaded with black dust which I suspect was needle bearings at one time.

 

 

 

 

IMAG1556.jpg

IMAG1557.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

New joint in.  Note the angle at the joint. Free to move around. The old joint had zero flex. 

 

 

IMAG1558.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where did you source a replacement? Just wondering. Does it have a modern counterpart? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Beemon said:

Where did you source a replacement? Just wondering. Does it have a modern counterpart? 

CARS for the joint. There are two types. They carry both.  It is a modern joint. Has a grease fitting. No good once in the tube. I lubed it well once the joint was assembled.

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Torque tubes are great said no one ever. Took some doing and time to get the assembly hooked to the torque ball.  Lining up the blank splines is a real treat. Used guide pins. Manual recommends 3 inch. Use 5 inch guides. Be happy.  Took me about 1 1/2 hours to get the thing installed.  Did it with no help.  So there is that.  Finish it up tomorrow. 

 

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've never figured out an easy way to line up those blind/blank splines.    I remember fighting my 58 Limited's connection there, and it was nothing more than an engine and trans into an open chassis.  Then I finally found out it has a blank spline.  DOH!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a shot of those blind/blank splines of which you speak.

I had to dig this one out of my spares when I took a transmission to Jim Hughes for a total rebuild  for my '58 Special.

IMG_2714.thumb.JPG.3b683aac3fbd04d69a03aafb71433905.JPG

 

IMG_2717.thumb.JPG.f5b576df7ac738cb1c07d9e3320ea6b4.JPG

I bought a transmission from Lance very reasonably that came from a '57 Buick to have rebuilt. They are the same transmissions except for the universal joint. 

I left the installation for a shop here and they said the same thing about the units lining up, and they do them all the time.

 

Edited by dei (see edit history)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Smartin said:

I've never figured out an easy way to line up those blind/blank splines.    I remember fighting my 58 Limited's connection there, and it was nothing more than an engine and trans into an open chassis.  Then I finally found out it has a blank spline.  DOH!

 

What I did was spin the axle just a bit to turn the shaft. Then pushed. Kept this up until she found home. The key is alignment of the two ends.  It's critical. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

CARS for the joint. There are two types. They carry both.  It is a modern joint. Has a grease fitting. No good once in the tube. I lubed it well once the joint was assembled.

 

How did you know which one to get ??

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Bill Stoneberg said:

 

How did you know which one to get ??

 

 

Bill, there are two set ups for clips that keep the caps in place.  I had the C clip that sit inboard of the cap.  The other has the clips that sit outboard of cap. 

 

Mine was like this:

s-l225.jpg

The other that may be in your Buick is this:

 

10086945_mdp_270_pri_larg.jpg 

  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You used to be able to walk up to the parts counter and say "Gimme  a 1" u-joint internal clip (or external)". The database doesn't know that. Now you say "Bring both that show and hand me that tape measure".

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are U-joints that can be installed either way.  RockAuto shows some with part numbers that probably can be sourced locally.  You were lucky to get the correct part the first time from those obnoxious New Jersey boys.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, old-tank said:

There are U-joints that can be installed either way.  RockAuto shows some with part numbers that probably can be sourced locally.  You were lucky to get the correct part the first time from those obnoxious New Jersey boys.

 

    I did check Rock Auto. I like Rock Auto.    They do offer just the outside clip style only. But again, went with what came out.   The guys in Jersey, I have not had any issue with.  Will call me if there is question or problem.   

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now