1916 BUICK D-45 EXHAUST SYSTEM REBUILD

[Terry Wiegand]

I completed the exhaust system rebuild on my 1916 D-45 this afternoon.  When I removed everything from the car I thought that this would be a really simple project and I didn't see any real problems except that the cutout valve was rusted up solid.  My favorite tool, Marvel Mystery Oil, freed up the stuck plunger valve in no time at all.  I remember thinking that this was going to be soooo easy.  Then I took the old muffler apart.  Holy Crap!!  The innards were ALMOST rusted away.  I was lucky to be able to get some measurements off the two inside tubes to have a starting point.  New aluminized exhaust tubing was obtained locally and I was on the road.  I had a good friend with a well equipped shop help with the project.  The very inside tube was fabricated and assembled to the inlet fitting.  The second  or middle tube was machined to length and the outlet holes were machined along with the inner tube holes before it was assembled onto the inlet fitting.  (got a little out of sequence there)  Here is where the proverbial crap hit the fan.  How in the world was a person going to make sure that the middle tube was going to stay tight in the inlet and outlet fittings so that accurate measurements could be obtained for the outer shell length?  ALL of the tubes were run in the lathe and machined so that the ends were perpendicular to the center line axis.  Then it was measure, measure, and measure again multiple times.  We got it and everything fit together perfectly.  I hope the photos will give some idea of what went into this project.  All that I can say right now is that I am not ready to jump into another muffler project anytime soon.  Sometimes all it takes is patience and perseverance.   All is well out in Doo Dah.

 

Terry Wiegand

Out Doo Dah Way

[Bob Engle]

I plan to attack this project this winter.  I have no idea what I will be getting into yet .

 

Bob Engle

[Larry Schramm]

Rebuilt the muffler on my truck three or four years ago.  Exactly as Terry is showing. 

 

Except the center pipe, the rest of the pipe is standard stove pipe diameter.  The center pipe was a standard size muffler pipe.  Don't remember the exact size.

 

They were called stove pipe mufflers.

Edited August 8, 2017 by Larry Schramm (see edit history)

[Terry Wiegand]

There were two types or styles of mufflers that were used at this point in time.  The one used the cast ends like mine has here and the other used stamped steel ends.  The cast ends lends itself to rebuilding very well.  I guess that I should consider myself very fortunate that this car that I have is extremely early in the production runs for this model year.  They hadn't started cheapening things up yet.  I really wasn't joking when I told everyone that this was one whale of a project.  What looks like a really simple job needs to be very precise to fit together properly and work like it is supposed to.  I am very happy with the end result that you see here.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

[cxgvd]

My '13 Model 31 has the same stove pipe exhaust, the pipes do not last very long and I have replaced them a few times already.  Presently, I am running a muffler from a '38.  It fits without modification and I can change back to original if and when the times call.  The car is quieter and durable.  Gary

 

BTW Terry you made a fabulous job.

Edited August 8, 2017 by cxgvd (see edit history)

[Larry Schramm]

My '18 has the stamped steel ends and it can be rebuilt fairly easily. 

[dibarlaw]

3Gary:
I agree Terry had a fabulous job done.

 This is the set up one the other 1913-31s had that Larry Schramm and I had looked at.

 The one I offered on in PA (now in England) had a 2 short sections fitted between the cast ends with sheet metal screws and was loose.

Of course I never heard the car run. It was to be running and drive-able when we came to inspect it. Notice lower radiator hose disconnected. Also he said that 2nd gear was "touchy". The next owner found out why.... As the gear went out the first day he drove it. The car went to 2 owners after I looked at it in June 2015. Was sold at Hershey 2016 to England.

Edited August 8, 2017 by dibarlaw
spelling (see edit history)

[Mark Shaw]

Just for comparison, this is the original muffler in my 1912 Model 34 Roadster.  I too has cast iron ends.

[Brian_Heil]

For those with a newer Buick, there is hope.  The muffler on my 1923 6 cylinder was split at the seam and leaking when I bought the car. 

 

The muffler needs a specific inlet diameter to fit the cast elbow/hanger and it needs to be offset at the inlet so it will clear the underbody and also offset at the rear to clear the axle strut arm.

 

Turns out a 1960s GM 'grain truck' muffler is a perfect match, inlet diameter and offsets, can diameter, can length.  Or at least it matched what I had that fit and was shot.  When I showed it to the muffler shop guy, he gave a number right off the top of his head and darn if it wasn't a perfect match. 

 

Here's a pick from Waldron's catalog that is the same.  I think I paid less than $20 20 years ago form the local muffler shop.

Edited August 8, 2017 by Brian_Heil (see edit history)

[Terry Wiegand]

Gregg Lange and I have had some discussions about these mufflers and the way that they were constructed.  He had said something to me to the effect that the mufflers with the stamped steel ends had the tendency to rust out real quick.  I cannot say one way or the other because I have never seen one of those.  I am just very thankful that what I have was able to be rebuilt as shown in the photos.  It will outlast me for certain.  Mark, could you post some closer photos of your system in the cutout area if you have them?  That is an interesting setup to say the least.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

[DonMicheletti]

I'd like to see a definition of "real quick".

 

When I bought my E-45 (it came with original 1917 license tag) in 1967 the muffler was shot. The car had been in continuous use, more or less, and the original stamped steel muffler was in bad condtition and I had to replace it - it only lasted 50 years. I had a sheet metal shop roll new pieces and it is still running on that. However, I do not use the car much.

The end pieces are still the originals.

 

As I remember, the parts were very close to regular duct pipe diameters and lengths. (But that was a long time ago.). The reason I had the pipes fabricated was because the retaining stud was bad, but slightly longer parts allowed me to use the original end pieces.

[Bob Engle]

My 1917 D45 is a late model SN 191818.  The muffler is wrapped with insulation.  I'm afraid of what I will find under the wraps.  It is a sheet steel end muffler.  I am also still trying to find out how the cutout is supposed to look.  It has a round shaft that was jammed through the rectangular floor opening with nothing on the top of the shaft.  I'm not going to work on this till after Hershey in October.

 

Bob Engle 

[DonMicheletti]

Bob,

It looks like you have everything. The 5/16" threaded rod goes throught he rectangle and there is a button screwed to it. If you need to make the button, I have a drawing for that.

[DonMicheletti]

Also, Here is how the piece between the valve and open "latch" looks on mine

[Terry Wiegand]

Don, what year and model is your car?  I have never seen this type of cutout before.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

[DonMicheletti]

Terry,

 

E-45. There was a 1917 California license hidden behind the door upholstery.

The car, while basically original, is really worn out. I dount the cutout and muffler were changed, but who knows what happened between 1917 and 1967 when i bought it. I doubt the car was ever totally out of service. Look at the wear on the pedals.