oldcar Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 (edited) And so we reach the end of another chapter, the 1920 Light Six starts the long journey to its next home. Edited January 16, 2018 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 And so we reach the end of another chapter........ The 1920 Light Six starts a long journey to it's new home. Bj 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 Don't look now but when you have a moment go to International Makes & Models<Italian> 1922 Fiat Cheers! Bj. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donal f Posted August 17, 2020 Share Posted August 17, 2020 Just to continue on the studebaker's interesting story, I have just bought it! It is currently in Yorkshire, England and I hope that it will be delivered to me here in Ireland on Saturday!. I will continue to post on its progress. For a car that hasn't driven since 1941, it's sure managing to travel the world!! Donal. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted August 17, 2020 Author Share Posted August 17, 2020 Congratulations Donal One of the first things that you will need to do is to find and buy a new cylinder head. They are available in the USA and possibly here in Australia. Other wise the car should still be in excellent mechanical condition. If you are that way inclined you can easily leave the exterior as an "Oily Rag" but from memory the interior had suffered the ravages of time and will need completely re-doing. I will watch with interest I will be watching over your shoulder so PLEASE don't do as it seems the owners in between you and me seem to have done, and simply say to all your friends "Look what I have just bought" then close the garage doors and forget all about it. Having said that, Please do not start tearing it apart into a thousand pieces and then consign it into the "too hard bin". Remember I will be watching you with great interest. Bernie j. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 Hopefully the information in this thread will help you get the car on the road again. Happy to answer additional questions. Scott 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted August 19, 2020 Author Share Posted August 19, 2020 From memory there was very little wrong with the car other than the cylinder head. New castings were available at the time I sold the car and should still be around. I am sure that some of the other Stude owners can help put you in the right direction. You have the makings of a really interesting car. Bj. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donal f Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 Thanks Bernie and Scott, will let you know when it arrives on Saturday. Donal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donal f Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 Well the Studebaker arrived, safe and sound. Very happy, spent today trying to work out what's what! A good few things have been disconnected, mainly around the fuel vacuum pump, the brakes and the throttle pedal seems to be missing. Parts that will be needed over coming weeks, 1,Bolts/screws that hold radiator to shroud, radiator has been reconditioned by last owner. 2,Throttle pedal /linkage 3, the throttle leaver on the steering wheel. Any advice on how the fuel system works (vacuum pump) I hope to get it running reasonably soon, then look at the seats!! The Bsa 10hp saloon I have was off the road since 1971 and got it back up and running recently. Again I'd appreciate any leads on where I could get spares, thanks in advance, Donal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 (edited) Original radiator to shroud screws are a 10-24x1/2” slotted countersunk screw with a lock washer and square nut. The throttle levers are common to a number of makes....I would keep a look out on eBay. You want one as pictured. There are a number of throttle pedal linkage setups. I recall this car originally came with a magneto but may have been converted to a distributor. I would need to know which setup you have and I can get you the schematic.....it may already be in the 15 pages of posts. If you want to PM me your email, I’ll send you info on the fuel pump. Scott Edited August 23, 2020 by Stude Light (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Page 6, first post has a close up of the steering wheel controls. Page 7 about half way down has the picture of the linkage rods for a Right Hand Car (RHC) with Magneto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 (edited) Hello Both Stude Light & Donal F. I am sorry but the Stude was such a brief interlude in my life with old cars that I feel that I really am not qualified to comment. I believe that the only way to bring it back to life after such a long period of inaction will be to fit or if necessary have a new cylinder head made if this has not already been done. It certainly deserves to be given a second chance. Bernie j. aka "oldcar". Edited September 8, 2020 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(S) Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 I had a post on this forum about a 22 EJ. I'll let you know what I find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbk Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 Donal I have a lot of parts for that car. I believe a sold you a throttle lever. Let me know what else you need. Robert Kapteyn studebaker@mac.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donal f Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 Hi Robert, Many thanks for the reply. The parts I currently need are the magneto lever/horn button that would be on the steering wheel, also the exhaust manifold to the carburettor pipe/cover that clips on the exhaust manifold and joins with inlet of the carburettor. Let me know if you have any and we can sort payment etc, Cheers, Donal Flynn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 More than likely you'll need to make the carburetor inlet tube. They are usually rusted away. Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donal f Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 Quick question, the ring gear is quite worn, is it possible to change it separately or was the flywheel all the one casting? Cheers Donal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude Light Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 12 hours ago, Donal f said: Quick question, the ring gear is quite worn, is it possible to change it separately or was the flywheel all the one casting? Cheers Donal The ring gear is pressed on to the flywheel. I would suggest heating it to press it off/on. You can usually just press it on the other way and get some better teeth unless it is really bad. The service manual should cover this. is the starter not engaging? It would have to be unusable before I would want to risk accidentally breaking it. Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcar Posted October 12, 2020 Author Share Posted October 12, 2020 (edited) I had already written the post below but had not "posted it. Stude Light has far more experience than me, with Studebakers. The alternative I suggested earlier rotating the flywheel by 90 degrees works the same but you would have to change all the timing marks, TDC, etc to suit. The experienced Stude people should be able to confirm exactly what your car has but in my own very limited knowledge of Studebaker practice I would think that as far as a replacement was concerned It would need to be SHRUNK on. But first you need to have a replacement. You will probably have to turn the old gear off the flywheel. The Replacement needs to be brought up to "RED Heat" then carefully lowered into place. You will not have too much time for adjustments so if you are not confident in doing this you are better to leave it to someone with some considerable experience. You do not get a second chance or time to fiddle about with it. If you know a friendly "Black-smith" it may pay to talk to them. The other alternative may be to rotate the flywheel through 90 degrees, thus changing the point of entry and maximum load. You probably should have the flywheel and crankshaft "balance" checked again after you have replaced the ring gear. The two photographs show two Ring-gears so you can have some idea of what we are talking about. The second photo shows the "point of entry" which has the most wear/damage. Extremely high compression and/or too much ignition advance can lead to the possibility of "Back-firing" leading to damage to both the ring-gear and the starter pinion. Bernie j. Bj. Edited October 12, 2020 by oldcar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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