Guest Tmt Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Hey TMT get graphic here, if you are in need of wood grain restoration for any vehicle ,whether be it stock or any form/combination of stains and Woodgrains give us an email for a quote @....Tmtgetgraphic@gmail.com we can duplicate or create a like new, better than new woodwork for your classic or hot rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 TMT, you should post in the Commercial Advertisements below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_S_in_Penna Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Looks like a useful service for the hobby! Until your posting, I never knew of a source for redoing the interior plastic woodgrains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Please post some photos of work you have done. Especially some before and afters. It will be nice to see how true to the original it is. The top one looks like an original factory applied door panel by the slight wear to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Hey Randy, when you get that Auburn, Joe Goss does good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 I might give it a try myself. I did my 36 Chrysler and it came out decent for my first attempt. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RansomEli Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Auburnseeker, That woodgraining looks pretty darn good regardless of a first attempt. What tools or woodgraining package did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 I used a grainit kit. I got the really big kit planning on doing other stuff and didn't get around to doing anymore as I had an issue with my surface prep. For anyone that doesn't know, be sure if you blast in your sandblast cabinet with baking Soda ever, any item you do after wards even months later, will have to be thoroughly washed with water (a hose works best) and dried well , I use air then put it in the sun to make sure it's baked dry, then prime it. My issues came from soda residue in my cabinet. Because of the amount of work and steps as well as being very particular I waited until I figured out the problem before considering attempting any more. You coat it with a clear when done then wet sand and buff it to get the smooth look. This was done with aerosols, but I would be tempted to shoot it with clear from a gun next time with a hardener as the Upol clear I used as they do, seems to not get real hard. Overall I would recommend the kit to anyone that wants to give it a try. It's all about being patient. The inks they use also take a long time to dry. I actually stuck them in the sun in a car i had parked in the yard to get them to really dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander Wildeisen Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 I use the same wood grain kit. I have only run into one problem, tape residue from the dash being masked off. Putting on the toner wiped off the grain pattern. Easy fix before clear coat, I would recommend them as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 I found you really have to let the ink dry extremely dry before the toner and you can't be to aggressive with the toner or you get that problem. I was only able to get it dry enough to do the toner by baking in a car in the sun for a couple of days. I was fortunate enough to not have any problems with the tape. I did find using the orangish base color worked real well over red oxide colored primer. It took alot of paint to cover black primer. A light coat over the read oxide and it was all set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 I stopped at a friend's garage the other day and checked out the wood grain he was doing on his '56 Plymouth wagon. Not original, but what he wanted. He is certainly not a professional, but I would try it myself, as well. I actually think painting wood grain is easier that sticking to other stuff on. I have a roll in the cellar that I fought with once. Bernie Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tmt Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 On 5/25/2017 at 5:40 AM, auburnseeker said: Please post some photos of work you have done. Especially some before and afters. It will be nice to see how true to the original it is. The top one looks like an original factory applied door panel by the slight wear to it. Hello , thank you for the warm welcome, yes ! you are correct in your assessment. So I have to admit , my process is not as valent as it first appears. lol .. There are wood grains in the film bank that are designed from authentic panels . Some are extremely well done ! However , if a meticulous match is desired then photos are optimal . Or in some instances possibly the opposite panel will do . Epson is the printer and toner is the ink ironically the OLDER epson printers produce the best hydrographic films . :-) I am barely touching the surface when it comes to Auto wood grain , and I find there is nothing more satisfying than spending part of my day researching the history and evolution of a vehicle! I do not have a basic knowledge much less the vast knowledge of the gents here. I am however , an expert at Hydrographics and I have had much success in wood grains in other arenas such as marine and interior design. My passion has always been Autos! So I thought what a great opportunity to contribute here in a positive way . Traci Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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