Guest racerjim Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 I'm working on a 1928 Buick 6 sedan and have an oil leak at my front crank seal area. Where are the best places for parts like the front seal? Thanks Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26-25Buick Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 Welcome Jim. It depends which gasket is leaking as the description is a little general however Olsons Gaskets maybe a place to start as they have a good range or can make to order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 The front crank seal is a "rope" type seal similar to a rear main seal and a real bear to change. There is no specific size. The material for several years might fit (I haven changed one of those for years). Bobs Automobilia may have the correct material. Excessive crank main bearing clearance may contribute to the seal leak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racerjim Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 thanks for the help. I'll post some pics of it here. we've rebuilt the vacuum fuel system and have it working ok and have cleaned out the carb and set it to what was recommended and the car starts right up. The starter foot switch is bad which I believe is a delco part 1510 that I have not been able to locate yet; we did a temporary repair on it so it works for now. once we fix the main oil leak and lube the chassis we hope to get it out for a test drive in the neighborhood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 Jim, Several people have pulled the timing cover (which you should do anyway) and installed a modern lip seal. This is the way to go. You do not want to go back with packing. I am not there yet on my car, but try a search of past forum messages or maybe someone will post the issue here too. Hugh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Nice looking car! My cad has a very similar colour scheme on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Jim, Bobs Automobilia has the front timing cover lip seal in their catalog. Hugh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racerjim Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 thanks. I'm cleaning the front of the engine to verify thats the leak for sure. Looks like it needs side cover gaskets as well as they are leaking also. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant L. Meredith Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 I a couple Months ago bought a starter switch from Brillman. www.brillman.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Carl Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Bob also has these decals , correct for '28 Buick. - Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racerjim Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 thanks very much. I was able to order the front crank seal from Bob's. I'm also working on a flooding issue with the carb. I suspect the float level might be too high but was not sure. whats the best things to check as i work on this/ Thanks. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 Jim, Pull the carburetor and install a new nitryl float from Bob's. Flip the carb upside down and blow into the fuel inlet. It should not let air past. If it still does, you need to work on the needle and seat. Take some carburetor cleaner and spray thru all the passages in the carburetor. While it is out, inspect the air valve also. See the attached link. Hugh http://forums.aaca.org/topic/278609-1925-standard-six-25-20-marvel-carb-10-11/#comment-1494398 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racerjim Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 Thanks Hugh. I did get the Nitryl float and installed it. I tested it and it seemed to shut off just fine. I cleaned out the carb real well and blew out all of the passages too. I'm going to check the air valve next. where should the fuel level be set on these carbs? I suspect mine might be too high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racerjim Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 that is a great link; I'm filing my air venturi as it is a bit swelled and won't let the air valve close all the way as in the article. I currently have the fuel level in the car at about 19mm below the top of the bowl so a couple mm below the low speed jet height. the car ran well on gravity feed through just a funnel; i rebuilt the vacuum factory fuel pump and it sucks up the fuel good and does not leak. maybe now that I have the fuel pump hooked up its getting furl through the vacuum lines into the intake? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 Jim, Good call. It may be your vacuum tank causing the problem if it is running well on the funnel. The float level is supposed to be 9/16" from the top of the float to the top of the bowl. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racerjim Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 well I put it back together and ran it with the vacuum disconnected form the fuel pump and it smoked pretty much the same as before. i was going to pull some of the spark plugs and noticed there was a fair amount of oil in the spark plug area. is that normal? i wonder if I'm getting oil into somewhere causing the smoking maybe? the car sat for 10 years in dry storage. when I first cleaned the carb and fixed the fuel pump it ran pretty good. i suspect something else may be contributing here. I'll pull the plugs to see what they tell and can run it outside to see what color the smoke is better. there's no fuel coming out of the front of the carb like a flooded condition might show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelod Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 The NOS starter switch that (I think) you need is currently listed on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1929-Buick-Cadillac-Cord-LaSalle-Nash-Studebaker-Delco-Remy-Starter-Switch-NOS/282536847444?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 Thanks, Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 Jim, If you remove the vacuum line from the intake to the vacuum tank, make sure the intake side is plugged and not open. The vacuum tank side would be open. I believe it is normal for oil to run thru the spark plug area as it heads back to the sump. There are drain holes to the sump in this area. If the motor sounds good, maybe you need to just run it longer to clear out any extra oil. Hook your vacuum line back up if that is not making an operability problem. You can use a rubber hose instead of the brass vacuum line if that is easier to hook up and remove occasionally to pull gas into the vacuum tank and rule out sucking gas into the intake. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest racerjim Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 We reconnected the vacuum line to the fuel pump and ran the car outside for about 30 mins to clear it out. Smoked a bunch in the beginning and then settled down to less smoke; no signs of flooding so carb looked good. i was able to set the idle air mixture pretty well and left the larger air control screw flush with the top of the little arm like i had read earlier. car seemed to smoke and miss more with more ignition advance than with less. I have a pretty significant front crank oil seal I need to address next as its slinging oil around the front of the engine area. I suspect I need to do a compression check next as well as adjust the valves and change the spark plug wires & plugs as they are pretty old as well as the ignition points. any pointers and setting the timing for this engine and what advance is optimum to run at? I'm hoping the smoking will settle down more as I run it and drive it. what oil would be best to run in it? thanks. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Carl Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Well Jim ! You sure make it easy to answer the oil question ! The best ? The BEST you say ? Hey ! A man after my own heart ! You are actually willing to treat your car to the BEST ? Like I do ? EASY answer : Amsoil Z Rod. Period. Wanna know why ? Look it up. Believe it. Comes in two viscosities. 10W/30 , and 20W/50. Or mix it half and half , and let that engine enjoy a 15W/40. Glad you asked , Jim. And a warm welcome to AACA forums ! And , uhhhhhh , though you DIDN'T ask : no , I have absolutely no affiliation whatsoever with Amsoil , or any other lubricant for that matter. I am just like you. The BEST , man ! Nothing but the best. The best is none too good for my rare expensive engines. And if I ever find a better oil , I will abandon whatever I am using at the time for THAT one. Now you have dropped and cleaned the pan and oil pump pickup , right ? And checked the bearing clearances? While I am standing on the 'Box , you should also use Synthetic grease. Although opinion (kind of like ears , most everyone has at least one or two of them) , often displaces fact when it comes to oil , as of now , no one yet has opined against Synthetic grease. And some day , there will be no naysayers when it comes to Synthetic oil. Old dogs ................... , you know. Old dog using Synthetics for 35+ years (remember the Hot Rod Magazine article on Synthetic oil back then ?) , now , - Cadillac Carl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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