avgwarhawk Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 On 3/22/2017 at 7:29 PM, avgwarhawk said: The previous owner used synthetic oil Hey now, nothing wrong with synthetic oils... Without getting too into it, I wouldn't use anything but Mobil 1 EP or Castrol EDGE if using Synthetic. At least it wasn't Purple. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 9 hours ago, Beemon said: Hey now, nothing wrong with synthetic oils... Without getting too into it, I wouldn't use anything but Mobil 1 EP or Castrol EDGE if using Synthetic. At least it wasn't Purple. I noted on the receipts purchasing synthetic oil for the Buick. It runs like a top so there is nothing wrong with that! I now run Lucas Classic Car/Hot Rod oil with added zinc. I did run regular old dino oil in the 54. I did not note any odd ball wear when I took the top of the engine apart. But, I decided to run an oil with added zinc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 Changed the oil. Pulled off a clean Frame filter with a hand written date of 4/6/08. This car sat A LOT. Installed a Hastings filter and filled with Lucas Classic Car 10/W30. Lubed the front end. Had a bit of trouble understanding the zerk fitting for the propeller shaft. Posted in the other forum for clarification. While under there noticed the shocks are original. Makes sense on a car with 30k. No doubt this Buick was a garage queen that spent a good part of it's life sitting. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 After 10 years NY doesn't care about mileage... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LeCat Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 That is a really nice car? . I never get tired of the lines, just beautiful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 (edited) Small repairs continue. I found the original vacuum actuator of heat blend door held open with a very small Bungie cord. Been there quite sometime. Very old. I figure the actuator was leaking vacuum and or the cable that was off the blower fan speed controller lead to an additional problem of the blend door not opening. Previous owner not understanding how the system worked or the cable off the arm for the speed controller was not diagnosed and repaired. Possible he could not find the part. It is a mystery. At any rate, the blower fan controller cable I reattached as posted above. I replaced the blend door vacuum actuator. The actuator vacuum hose connects to the cable speed controller. From there the vacuum source is off the manifold. Once the fan switch on the dash and heat is selected the vacuum actuator pulls open the blend door. It works as designed now. Bungie went in the trash. I have a set of springs for the rear and shocks for all four corners. Next weeks project. I also found the original glass bowl fuel filter assembly is missing. I found one on Ebay. I have the filter for it coming. Also a project for this week. Edited March 31, 2017 by avgwarhawk (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 She's a lucky girl! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 There is a lot more room in your Engine compartment without all the A/C stuff that lives in mine. You can actually get to the back plug on the passenger side. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 13 hours ago, Bill Stoneberg said: There is a lot more room in your Engine compartment without all the A/C stuff that lives in mine. You can actually get to the back plug on the passenger side. Strangely enough the car had an aftermarket Sears a/c unit that the previous owner had removed. I have the instruction on installing and working this unit from Sears. But yeah, a/c systems as well as other goodies(like pollution control devices) can make maintenance difficult. I can remember the Chevy Chevette having to remove the a/c compressor to access the distributor cap!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 13 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said: I can remember the Chevy Chevette having to remove the a/c compressor to access the distributor cap!!! Have you tried accessing and changing / setting the points on yours yet ? For this fat boy, it is awfully hard. I basically lay moving blankets on the engine, take off the air cleaner and the radiator "Shroud" and lay on my stomach. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivRider Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Good idea,seems harder every year to work under the hood of any of them for some reason,couldn't be that retirement is getting closer (for me) is it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 18 hours ago, Bill Stoneberg said: Have you tried accessing and changing / setting the points on yours yet ? For this fat boy, it is awfully hard. I basically lay moving blankets on the engine, take off the air cleaner and the radiator "Shroud" and lay on my stomach. I have on my 54. I call it motor surfing. Its a crappy spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivRider Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 And do I remember correctly that the points on these have to be set with a gauge? My Riv is hard enough to get to but at least it has the window,I have a flexible allen head driver and an old Hastings meter to do that one,real nice,I can get exact with the meter.Has the settings to do the carb as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Thank goodness I has a window to do them with. I too have a flexible driver though if you ask at the art parts house for one of those, they look at you like you are crazy. I also have an old Sears Dwell meter that I bought when I was young. Some tools never go out of style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 I was able to score a fuel bowl/filter housing and bracket. The original long since gone. Noted above I replaced with a off the shelf filter. Replaced the rubber hoses. But me being me....I had to find the correct filter housing. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 I put one of those on my 56. They just look cool, aren't the cheap plastic filter, beats the brass pancake filter, and the replacement filter is readily over the counter! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 (edited) 8 hours ago, Beemon said: I put one of those on my 56. They just look cool, aren't the cheap plastic filter, beats the brass pancake filter, and the replacement filter is readily over the counter! Three reasons I wanted/needed to go back to the original part application: 1. Just looks right and cool as you observed 2. It is the correct set up 3. The use of a straight filter and rubber hose allows the gas to siphon back to the pump and eventually the tank making for long crank times. I physically see the gas siphon back through the visible filter. With this correct filter housing in place there is no longer any siphon of the gas to the pump and tank. Edited April 6, 2017 by avgwarhawk (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 It's an effective filter BUT, Mr. Earl's 62 Electra is not the only 62 Electra I know of that has had a fire. I suspect these filters are the culprit when someone does not make sure they are sealed, after opening. I distinctly remember one of these on a piece of equipment I owned that did not appear to leak at first, but shortly thereafter was practically gushing gas all over everything. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 (edited) 13 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said: It's an effective filter BUT, Mr. Earl's 62 Electra is not the only 62 Electra I know of that has had a fire. I suspect these filters are the culprit when someone does not make sure they are sealed, after opening. I distinctly remember one of these on a piece of equipment I owned that did not appear to leak at first, but shortly thereafter was practically gushing gas all over everything. Duly noted sir. I appreciate the heads up on this filter set up!!! When I was assembling the glass portion to the body the screw portion that secures the glass bowl to the body concerned me. Nothing there to keep it from unscrewing while driving. With your information concerning these filters I will either add a dab of Lock-tite(non-permanent formula) or fine wire the hand screw portion to prevent it from backing off. And of course keep an eye on it!!!!! Edited April 6, 2017 by avgwarhawk (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 I went over Snoqualmie Pass and survived Highway 26, where the entire time I thought I had a loose spindle nut and the front wheels were going to fall off. It put squeaks in places I didn't think possible and I think I lost a few thousandths off my front teeth chattering all the way. The one thing that didn't fail was the fuel filter (and the spindle nuts... lol). Just don't reuse the same rubber gasket and everything should be fine. My filter had the original stone element and I quickly removed it and other archaic parts to the filter, cleaned it up good, and haven't had an issue with mine since. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 44 minutes ago, Beemon said: I went over Snoqualmie Pass and survived Highway 26, where the entire time I thought I had a loose spindle nut and the front wheels were going to fall off. It put squeaks in places I didn't think possible and I think I lost a few thousandths off my front teeth chattering all the way. The one thing that didn't fail was the fuel filter (and the spindle nuts... lol). Just don't reuse the same rubber gasket and everything should be fine. My filter had the original stone element and I quickly removed it and other archaic parts to the filter, cleaned it up good, and haven't had an issue with mine since. We have come a long way since stone filters. Every tip is helpful. The paper element and gasket appear to work well out of the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 10 hours ago, avgwarhawk said: I will either add a dab of Lock-tite(non-permanent formula) or fine wire the hand screw portion to prevent it from backing off. I vote for lock wire. I have a similar filter on the 3.0L MerCruiser engine in my boat. I wired the nut on that puppy! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Replaced the rear coils and shocks today. Not a major undertaking. Similar to the 54 but without the shocks. I'll replace the front shocks sometime this week. The rear was enough for one day. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Looks like you went with a set of progressively wound springs. How's the ride height now? Are you planning to replace the front springs too or just the shocks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 2 hours ago, EmTee said: Looks like you went with a set of progressively wound springs. How's the ride height now? Are you planning to replace the front springs too or just the shocks? The ride height remained the same. She sits level. The rear with no one in the back seat would bottom out/hit the rubber bumpers with the old springs. Some sagging. I have always done well with the progressive coils. The ride is the same as the old coils. A bit less body roll. The front coils are fine and will remain. Shocks will be replaced. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 On 4/8/2017 at 8:37 PM, EmTee said: Looks like you went with a set of progressively wound springs. How's the ride height now? Are you planning to replace the front springs too or just the shocks? This is how she sits. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivRider Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Looks like you've got got her all shined up,I love that color,really stands out in the sun. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 3 hours ago, RivRider said: Looks like you've got got her all shined up,I love that color,really stands out in the sun. I used a light polish to remove the years of old wax that was applied. Spend a few hours getting the wax build up that finds it's way under the trim and body. Applied a new coat of wax. I'm pleased that the original paint does shine after all these years. She has her warts and touch ups but that is what makes this Buick. She gets a lot of attention because she is unusual from the others. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivRider Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 When I did Elvira I used polishing compound,Dupont #7 first then wax and I forgot how nice that old lacquer paint was to work with,if not real bad you can always bring it back.Then the tooth brush and soft bristle scrub brush to get in the cracks and trim.Then I found Turtle Wax Ice that doesn't leave all that junk,several new ones like that out there,does a nice job.Where are you at,if I get Elvira going this year,it would be nice to see them side by side 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 17 minutes ago, RivRider said: When I did Elvira I used polishing compound,Dupont #7 first then wax and I forgot how nice that old lacquer paint was to work with,if not real bad you can always bring it back.Then the tooth brush and soft bristle scrub brush to get in the cracks and trim.Then I found Turtle Wax Ice that doesn't leave all that junk,several new ones like that out there,does a nice job.Where are you at,if I get Elvira going this year,it would be nice to see them side by side Toothbrush is the tool of choice! I got Pinnacle wax for Christmas. Super nice wax and not dust/past left behind. Are you outside York PA? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivRider Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 No,I'm up in N.E. corner,twenty miles below N.Y. border just off Rt.81 up in the endless mountains at 1800 feet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 3 hours ago, RivRider said: No,I'm up in N.E. corner,twenty miles below N.Y. border just off Rt.81 up in the endless mountains at 1800 feet. You are up there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 "Sweet Pea" lookin' sweet indeed! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 I feel like Johnny Cash. One piece at a time. Out with the old and in with the new.. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 4 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said: I feel like Johnny Cash. One piece at a time. Out with the old and in with the new.. Looks like the bushings need a little more compression. On swaybar links you usually tighten until the the nut bottoms out. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 2 hours ago, old-tank said: Looks like the bushings need a little more compression. On swaybar links you usually tighten until the the nut bottoms out. Done! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 And out with the old and in with the new. I have two new Cokers on the way. Clock appears to want to work so need to look into that a bit more. Fuel pump replacement next and related rubber hose from pump to steel line running inside the frame. Check on the heater core or control valve possible coolant leak at one or both. Rebuild carb. That will be all! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Clocks are easy to fix. There are a set of points in it that get corroded. Blow the dust out, oil lightly and clean the points. Chances are it will work again. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Don't use a point file, use a burnishing tool like emery cloth if cleaning the points up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now