1920’s Buick Motor removal and engine stand

[Hubert_25-25]

I am looking for advice on pulling and supporting this large awkward chunk of iron affectionately referred to as a motor. 

1. PULLING THE MOTOR.  Two head bolts were selected for the chain that was used for lifting the motor.  I guess that means you lose the head gasket if you ever have to lift the motor, unless there are some other options.  This also does a fair but not great job of pulling the motor level, as the motor tilts sideways due to the bolt locations only on one side of the valve cover.   The rocker studs seem too small for lifting.  Anyone have any motor pulling photos or advice? 

    

2. SUPPORTING THE MOTOR.  The front of the motor has very little to support the load.  The front mount is a casting that I do not trust.   The upper flywheel cover won’t hold the motor up in an engine stand.  If I remove the upper flywheel cover, will a V-8 type engine stand work against the block?  I used a muffler clamp and chain fall from the ceiling to hold the front of the engine up.

    

3. PARTIAL DISASSEMBLY.  Since I now have jack stands under the rear motor mounts, and the front held from the ceiling, I could remove the cylinder head, drain the oil, and remove the oil pan.  I need to remove the front motor cover, so I can put some short bolts in the head bolt holes and lift the block again with the engine hoist.

    

4. ROTATING THE MOTOR.   If I Set the block down on an old tire, this will allow me to rotate it onto it’s side, and then upside down on to the flat side of the block so that I can remove the crankshaft.  Or am I better off supporting the crankshaft, removing the bolts, and then slowly lowering the crankshaft with a chain fall or other method?   An engine stand would be really useful for this.

    

   So what I am considering should work, but I am curious to what others have done.   This is a 1925 Buick 6 cylinder.  Hugh

5. 

[Guest]

An engine stand is the only way to go.  I bought one for $109.00, used it to overhaul my 30 Pontiac engine and sold it for $95.00.  Best $14.00 I ever spent.  Was able to mount the engine on the stand by myself and rotate it to work on either side, top or bottom.  The only thing I couldn't do was install the flywheel.  Had to leave that until I had the engine back on the lift.  The stand was rated for 1000 pounds and easily rolled all over the shop.

Edited February 26, 2017 by Guest (see edit history)

[27donb]

I removed mine with a pair of lift straps around the motor mount ears, and 2 lift eyelets on bolts on the front timing cover, plus a load equalizer bar.  I could not see a way around the steering box, so I pulled the steering wheel and removed the column and box before pulling the engine.

 

The engine rested on concrete blocks and wood to keep it level and stable.  I was not planning to do any engine disassembly, however.

 

An engine stand is a must for disassembly, which I have not done.  I had a Pontiac 400 engine on a stand once, and it was scary.  It would definitely bounce and flex, and was hard to move with cheap caster wheels.  Get an engine stand with a wide stance, and of high quality.  I once stood back and calculated in my head that if the tubing or China welds decided to give up, not only would the engine fall and probably break my legs, but it would ruin the crank and most likely go right through the garage floor.  With a heavy Buick 6 cylinder engine, be prepared to support the front end of the engine while working on it, even if it is on a proper engine stand.

[Mark Shaw]

 

 

 

PULLING THE MOTOR.  Two head bolts were selected for the chain that was used for lifting the motor.  I guess that means you lose the head gasket if you ever have to lift the motor, unless there are some other options.  This also does a fair but not great job of pulling the motor level, as the motor tilts sideways due to the bolt locations only on one side of the valve cover.   The rocker studs seem too small for lifting. 

You are correct about the rocker studs.  I used a long strap around the rear motor mounts along with ratchet straps to the front and side to control angles.  The front mount works fine to sit it on the floor as long as you control rotation.  I modified a Harbor Freight engine stand by fabricating a brace to better support the overhung load.  I used my engine hoist to help support the front when moving it around my shop.

[kgreen]

Does the attachment point between the engine stand and the engine have sufficient strength to hold the engine? 

[Hubert_25-25]

Thanks for the helpful pictures and notes.  That was my concern as well.  Even with removing the flywheel cover, I was wondering if anyone had a picture of their Buick 6 or Buick 8 block in a regular engine stand.  I don't mind supporting the top of the engine stand from the ceiling with a chain fall or an engine hoist.  That is  a good safety measure that the stand will not flip or get knocked over .  It is a lot of overhung load on the engine casting at the rear.  I do think to be on the safe side, I would not install the head if the block is in a rotatable engine stand.  Even a good practice to remove the head prior to bolting the block in an engine stand.  Use the rotation for installing the crankshaft and pan, and then when it is right side up, go back to supporting it at the front of the engine.        

  

[Oregon Desert model 45]

I made a spreader bar from 3/8 plate steel and drilled a row of holes allow for adjustment of lift point. 2 chains are bolted at midpoint to the spreader bar, one end fastening to a manifold stud and the other end bolts to a spark plug base which is screwed into a plug hole.    I made a wooden stand to support the motor in upright position, but most of the work was inside the crank case with the motor inverted and resting on plywood to keep it off the garage floor.

 

Kevin

 

 

[Hubert_25-25]

Kevin,

That is a very creative way to make a connection for the opposite side of the motor using old spark plugs.  Hugh

[Mark Shaw]

Great idea Kevin.  No wonder you became an engineer for Boeing.

[Hubert_25-25]

So still wondering if a modern engine stand is a good idea for this 1925 Buick Motor.  I can only use 3 bolts to hold it to the stand.  There is a single 3/8 bolt in the middle center.  I could use a grade 8.  It would be in tension and really holding all the weight up.  Then there are two 7/16 bolts in the side holes.  Not sure if there is enough metal around these 2 lower bolts.  Maybe I need to look at it again with the head off.  Definitely does not look strong enough with the head on the motor.  

 

[raydurr]

Be aware that all engine stands are not created equal. That Buick engine is not only heavy, it is long which puts extra strain on the rotating head and pivot. It is also TALL which can be difficult to manage when rotating the engine. I cannot stand the new import stand which I believe are made for Asian engines. For years I have used a 1970s vintage Walker 5/8 ton USA made stand. These can still be located used. I have had large ford and GM truck engines on it with ALL the accessories. Yes it was loaded but I never felt unsafe using it. A stand like this should be the minimum for the Buick engine. A failure could result in an injury or months of setbacks. Play it safe.

Edited April 12, 2017 by raydurr (see edit history)