Steve2150 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 Have a 1990, service engine light on for cam sensor, car runs good. Mechanic replaced ecm, cam sensor, cranks sensor, idle air control, oxygen sensor, water pump (leaking), antifreeze from green to red, temp sensor, thermostat, ignition coil, ignition module, wires, plugs. What happened went to pass a car by flooring it, moved sluggishly service engine light came on, took it to mechanic low coolant as water pump leaking then all other things replaced light still on. after ecm switch using same proms as soon as you start car the temp gauge goes to hot which shuts down ac compressor but mechanic scanner says temp normal. Took it to different mechanic on his scanner shows just after starting temp is higher then air temp, not normal. Also sometimes when I start car get elecrical problem light where climate fan comes on and temp setting goes to 75 degrees cannot control heat/ ac etc shut motor off restart normal but must reset temp from 75 to whatever I want. Any new ideas would be helpfull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 Sounds like first mechanic was using a shotgun. If the SES light is on then there is a trouble code set (maybe more than one). What is it/them ? Sounds like a connector on the ECM not seated properly or a ground/power fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 If you just start the car and the gage and scanner are telling you the water temp is above ambient, then it looks like you still have a bad temp sensor. It could also be a bad connection or bad ground somewhere in that circuit. Check all the engine grounds, there are two on the radiator support in front of the battery. There is an isolated ground on the fender side behind the battery. Engine ground under the alternator. This also get complicated because the temp sensor first goes to the ECM, then the ECM send the temp information to the BCM which then sends it to the instrument panel (does the IP show the temp hot?) If you have a service manual section 8A can walk you thru problems and you can also go into diagnostics and check various functions and devices with the engine running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve2150 Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 The temp gauge in the IP goes hot to almost red spot in about 2 minutes from startup, driving it sometimes goes back to normal then up again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) As for the erratic temp gauge, either you have a short to ground on the yellow lead (CTS), bad CTS (unlikely), or a bad ECM. I know you said it was replaced, but... Unplug the CTS and see what you get. Edited October 18, 2016 by harry yarnell add last sentence (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve2150 Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 First start engine a little rough, wants to stall, after a few minutes runs good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) 46 minutes ago, Steve2150 said: First start engine a little rough, wants to stall, after a few minutes runs good. I deleted my last post to avoid confusion because I think I misunderstood your original question. I thought you needed suggestions about what might cause your temperature gauge to read hot and the AC compressor to stop working. Edited October 18, 2016 by Ronnie (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dashmaster Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Are you sure the cooling system is full with no pockets of air? Is the coolant reservoir tank empty ? If it is you need to keep adding coolant until the level in the tank stabilizes. The system purges out the air and pulls in the coolant. Air pocket could be causing the high reading. I know after doing timing chain on mine and refilling the cooling system I saw very high readings on the CRT until the air was purged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve2150 Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 System full, overflow reservoir full. 1990 has no crt has gauge in IP. Happened after new water pump and green to red antifreeze. My service engine light came on originally when I went to pass a car, floored it and my car picked up sluggishly then light came on, that is when found water pumo leaking and other parts previously listed failed to shut service engine light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 1990 has the same diagnostics available, just displayed differently. Hold the HVAC OFF and temp up button with key in RUN to begin and see codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve2150 Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 Did the diagnostics already that way, showed Eo41, cam sensor, everything replaced except magnet on chain. Also get whine noise in radio so a ground might also be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 2 minutes ago, Steve2150 said: Did the diagnostics already that way, showed Eo41, cam sensor, everything replaced except magnet on chain. Also get whine noise in radio so a ground might also be a problem. Why didn't you replace the magnet? That is the number one thing that causes a code E041. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 Is the cover on the ALDL connector under the driver's knee bolster ? There are two metal tabs in that cover that complete the circuit for the communication bus between all the modules in the event of a failure elsewhere. Since that feature is fairly unique to 90 Reatta, most mechanics probably arent aware of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 No, the 88 ALDL and cover is unique to that year, 89-91 is the same. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) I was getting an intemittant e041 code on the Red. I took off the sensor [I had a new one in inventory] and as luck would have it the magnet was right there. It didn't look good [cracked] but was still all there. I left the new sensor in and to date [about 1000 miles] have not had a code yet. I am swapping out the motor next spring as the motor has 258,000 miles on it and it just seems tired in comparison to the other two Reattas I have. Edited October 21, 2016 by DAVES89 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Has the timing chain ever been replaced ? After about 100k the chain stretches and retards the valve timing making a ded cam even deder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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