1939 Cowl information Tag Missing

[Bob H]

My 1939 convertible project, despite being quite intact, did not have the information tag on the cowl. My guess is that someone pilfered it as a souvenir. Does someone make replacement tags that are similar and how might I come up with the missing info? Some things like paint color and trim can be derived from remnants on the car but other items are less obvious. Does the VIN help to fill in some of the blanks? Thanks, Bob H

[Dynaflash8]

Yes, but I don't know who.  I think he advertises in Hemmings though.  If it wasn't a convertible I could give you one for a sedan.

[DonMicheletti]

Back then many states didnt use the chassis number (picture) but used the engine number. It is like that here in Calif.

 

I doubt there is any information that links the chassis number to any of the car specs.

 

As far as creating a new tag, you can get correct body, color and upholstery codes from the old '37 - '38 Torque Tube site, which is on the net.. I'm pretty sure that Buick used the same codes for '39 too.

 

I think that since your chassis number starts with a "1" it is a Flint built car.

[1939_Buick]

http://www.datatags.com/

When I asked him some time ago he stated the repro's are punched as original. That is from the back for some info/numbers and from the front for other.

Sean1997 can provide the numbers-coding you want.

The chassis serial number 13558147 shows it was made in Flint (first letter = 1). Maybe all 46C 66C were Flint production

 

Edit

We like photos

Edited September 23, 2016 by 1939_Buick (see edit history)

[Dynaflash8]

9 hours ago, DonMicheletti said:

Back then many states didnt use the chassis number (picture) but used the engine number. It is like that here in Calif.

 

I doubt there is any information that links the chassis number to any of the car specs.

 

As far as creating a new tag, you can get correct body, color and upholstery codes from the old '37 - '38 Torque Tube site, which is on the net.. I'm pretty sure that Buick used the same codes for '39 too.

 

I think that since your chassis number starts with a "1" it is a Flint built car.

All of the codes for color and upholstery type & colors are in the Buick Master Chassis Parts Books.  No collector should try to operate without owning a Master Chassis Parts Book.  I have them at home in Florida....but, I'm not home right now. The one thing  you can't get from them is the body number.  The Buick Heritage Alliance may have the late Terry Dunham's old formula for how to come close based on the chassis number, I don't know.  Terry could pretty well tell you the week the car was built.  Maybe somebody has a really rough junk car body and can provide an original body plate.  AACA does not require that the color on the car match the color code on the plate, thank goodness.  The only possible source I can think of for that would be Dave Tachney in Minnesota.

[Dynaflash8]

8 hours ago, 1939_Buick said:

http://www.datatags.com/

When I asked him some time ago he stated the repro's are punched as original. That is from the back for some info/numbers and from the front for other.

Sean1997 can provide the numbers-coding you want.

The chassis serial number 13558147 shows it was made in Flint (first letter = 1). Maybe all 46C 66C were Flint production

 

Edit

We like photos

I think they were all made in Flint.  The chassis number may or may not tell you how late in the year the car was built.  My 41C is a short chassis model.  Sometime long ago I found it was built in Nov 1938.   You can tell if the car was early or late by several early-only features.  Windshield wiper transmissions where changed mid-year, hood supports were changed mid year, chassis' were lengthened mid-year twice on Special and Century.  First change was an extension welded on and then a full chassis constructed.  Grills were also changed mid-year in '39.  If windshield wiper transmissions are die-cast it is second generation, if they are stamped metal and smaller they are first generation.  Early cars had an upside down L bracked bolted to the firewall for a hood support.  Second generation cars had that removed and replaced by a winged support in the middle of the hood.

[39BuickEight]

Coming up with the correct body number may be impossible, but as mentioned, there are ways to narrow it down.

 

Of course you could try finding another tag off a car that was only good for parts, at least that way you would have a unique number.

 

I swapped tags on my cars because on my original car, the heater lines were drilled right through it.  While the body number is different now, it is still correct for the car in terms of year/options/body style/etc.  I have the frame tag "VIN" on my title.

 

What number is on your title?

 

 

[sean1997]

My trim code list is here:

 

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/231704-1932-1975-buick-trim-codes-by-model/

 

 

Paint codes can be found in the BCA judging manual (page 46 of 85):

 

http://www.buickclub.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/bca_judging_manual.pdf

 

or in various online databases:

 

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/chipdisplay.cgi?year=1939&manuf=GM&info=yes&page=1

Since the car was built at Flint there will not be a plant code in front of the body number, but there is no way to recover the exact body number once it is lost.  Frame serial number 13574432 was model 46C and body number 2173.

[Bob H]

I appreciate all the feedback, an important function of this organization in my opinion. My car is titled on the VIN in the picture so no problem there. Color was and will be Sequoia Cream, code available. The original interior was a red vinyl or "leatherette", couldn't find it in Sean's trim data. Have three other 1939 parts cars all with the info tags so fortunately I have samples to work from. The body number sounds like a roll of the dice or numbers from a hat should work. Since convertible frames are different might there be some way to tie the body number to the frame number? I'll post the numbers off my parts convertible when I uncover it. Thanks again for all the tips, Bob H

[Dynaflash8]

On 9/23/2016 at 9:04 AM, 39BuickEight said:

Coming up with the correct body number may be impossible, but as mentioned, there are ways to narrow it down.

 

Of course you could try finding another tag off a car that was only good for parts, at least that way you would have a unique number.

 

I swapped tags on my cars because on my original car, the heater lines were drilled right through it.  While the body number is different now, it is still correct for the car in terms of year/options/body style/etc.  I have the frame tag "VIN" on my title.

 

What number is on your title?

 

 

I had to do the exact same thing for the exact same reason.  I have the one with the hole through it, plus one more spare somewhere in my stuff.

 

[Dynaflash8]

14 hours ago, Bob H said:

I appreciate all the feedback, an important function of this organization in my opinion. My car is titled on the VIN in the picture so no problem there. Color was and will be Sequoia Cream, code available. The original interior was a red vinyl or "leatherette", couldn't find it in Sean's trim data. Have three other 1939 parts cars all with the info tags so fortunately I have samples to work from. The body number sounds like a roll of the dice or numbers from a hat should work. Since convertible frames are different might there be some way to tie the body number to the frame number? I'll post the numbers off my parts convertible when I uncover it. Thanks again for all the tips, Bob H

The interior was red LEATHER.  Door panels were likely leatherette, as were windlace.  The jump seats and jump seat back were definitely leatherette.  Vinyl is considered a satisfactory judging replacement for leatherette.  However, when I did my convertible coupe, I used leather everywhere.  It made a beautiful job, and the car was a National Award Winner in AACA.  When I did my blue sedan years ago I used vinyl matched to the leather by the leather company (no longer in business), except on the door panels which I made leather.  The back of the front seat, headliner and windlace on that car are all vinyl as when built in 1939.  On an original car, you can tell, especially on the windlace because the leatherette finish will usually be cracked off in places showing the cloth underneath.