Guest fireman190 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Just acquired a 1937 Dodge Brothers Sedan....been sitting for 25 years. Complete car. Now the questions is where do we start? Not much experience with car restoration. Goal right now is to see if motor runs, and what work brake system needs. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Project with myself and my three boys. Car given to them by their grandmother. Exhaust pipe rusted thru mid car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 (edited) Nice car! First thing to do is get yourself a factory service or shop manual. There are various threads on this forum regarding starting an old car after sitting for years. Clean fuel tank, fresh brakes and putting Marvel mystery Oil in the cylinders to loosen things up prior to starting, are priorities. If you have the skills, remove the brake drums to inspect the brakes. The rear drums will probably need a U.S. made three legged puller that bolts onto the wheel studs. The wheel cylinders will certainly have to be at least be honed out and rebuilt and possibly replaced if too bad to hone. The brakes are a special type and can be tricky to adjust. More about that later. The fuel lines will have to be blown out clean. The fuel filter (if so equipped) will probably have to be replaced along with the oil and filter. Just a few "starting" points. Edited August 27, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 (edited) OH!!! Be aware that the left side of the car (driver's side) probably has LEFT-HAND lugs. There will be a stamped "L" on the stud if that is the case. I am pretty certain they are left-hand on the left side and right-hand on the right side. Most Chrysler products of the era are that way. Edited August 27, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fireman190 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Thanks for the advice. How would I know if engine is seized? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fireman190 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Two more pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 (edited) You can usually grip the fan and the belt around the pulley and turn clockwise, I believe. If you are not certain which way it turns, you may find that info on Google. Just as long as you see the upper and lower pulley turn, it should be loose and not frozen. Edited August 27, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fireman190 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Also missing ignition key as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fireman190 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 If it is seized, is it possible to get it freed and moving? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 I think that the ignition just unscrews from the back side of the dash. Take it in to a locksmith and they should be able to get you a key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 As far as if the engine can be unstuck....I have seen some pretty stubborn ones come loose with time and lubrication. Got any mobile mechanics around who works on old cars? There may be a member of this forum who lives near you and can give you more tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 (edited) I think the 1937s have a shop manual available as a reprint. Try Irv Bishko Books. Edited August 27, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Looks like someone added some non-stock front turn signals to the fenders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fireman190 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Thanks again for the info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 (edited) I suggest taking a hand held mirror and a trouble/shop light and inspect the wiring under the dashboard prior to putting a battery to it. I think the battery for the '37 is under the driver's side of the front seat. I am running on memories of my 1936 sedan I had. Edited August 27, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Nice car ! Looks like it might shine up too. Any interior shots ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fireman190 Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 (edited) 18 hours ago, Reg Evans said: Nice car ! Looks like it might shine up too. Any interior shots ? It does, paint looks pretty good. Going to clean it up this week, clean interior. Interior has an odor to it...no animal damage from initial inspection. Looks like it was painted at some point...Serial number plate is painted over. Edited August 28, 2016 by fireman190 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
35cz8 Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 Your Dodge looks to be in real nice condition and not missing much - if anything - to complete it. Where are you and perhaps there are other Dodge owners near that can help with some of you questions. I have found that most of the people on this forum are great and are willing to help where they can. I am sure happy to see another old Dodge that will be saved through a family project. There are a LOT of parts and information out on these year Dodges so parts and information should not be a big problem. Good luck and please keep us up on your progress. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fireman190 Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 Thank you...my boys are very excited we finally got it in our garage. I think the first thing Im going to focus on is getting engine running then move on to exhaust and brakes. Hope to get it moving in a few months. Body has no rust at all... interior intact but does smell a bit. I ll post some interior pics tomorrow. Im definately a novice with this restoration stuff. Learn as i go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 Just don't start taking things apart. If you do have to remove something, photograph it in place from several different angles, then take it off. I also draw diagrams and make notes in a notebook I keep for the car. Before you try to start the car, change the oil, - plugs, antifreeze, clean or replace the points, check point gap and static timing. Clean all battery connections and put in a new battery. If the car has been sitting a long time, you may want to drop the oil pan and clean out the sludge. These old Mopar sixes are tough motors and easy to work on, but make sure everything is ready to go before you try and start it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fireman190 Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 4 hours ago, Taylormade said: Just don't start taking things apart. If you do have to remove something, photograph it in place from several different angles, then take it off. I also draw diagrams and make notes in a notebook I keep for the car. Before you try to start the car, change the oil, - plugs, antifreeze, clean or replace the points, check point gap and static timing. Clean all battery connections and put in a new battery. If the car has been sitting a long time, you may want to drop the oil pan and clean out the sludge. These old Mopar sixes are tough motors and easy to work on, but make sure everything is ready to go before you try and start it. Thanks for the advice...much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 You might be able to see if the engine is stuck by putting it in 3rd gear and rocking it back and forth. If it moves, it is free. If not, lubrication is required. It is a side valve engine so you need to use a tube to get oil into the cylinders because the spark plugs are over the valves. I use an old sewing machine oil bottle with a long nozzle and shove a short tube onto the nozzle. It will most likely have stuck valve(s). You will know once you get it turning and try a start. If a valve is open, there will be no compression in that cylinder and the cranking speed will vary. There is a possibility fuel has evaporated out of the carburetor and left gums blocking things. There may even be some zinc corrosion in the tiny fuel and air ways inside. Compressed air and carb cleaner will help if necessary, but no poking bits of wire through things! You could enlarge jets etc. that are sized just right before you start. If it needs oil in the cylinders to free it, it will smoke a lot when you get it started! Let the neighbours know what you are doing so they don't call the fire brigade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fireman190 Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 4 hours ago, Spinneyhill said: You might be able to see if the engine is stuck by putting it in 3rd gear and rocking it back and forth. If it moves, it is free. If not, lubrication is required. It is a side valve engine so you need to use a tube to get oil into the cylinders because the spark plugs are over the valves. I use an old sewing machine oil bottle with a long nozzle and shove a short tube onto the nozzle. It will most likely have stuck valve(s). You will know once you get it turning and try a start. If a valve is open, there will be no compression in that cylinder and the cranking speed will vary. There is a possibility fuel has evaporated out of the carburetor and left gums blocking things. There may even be some zinc corrosion in the tiny fuel and air ways inside. Compressed air and carb cleaner will help if necessary, but no poking bits of wire through things! You could enlarge jets etc. that are sized just right before you start. If it needs oil in the cylinders to free it, it will smoke a lot when you get it started! Let the neighbours know what you are doing so they don't call the fire brigade. Thanks for the information. ..it is greatly appreciated! ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fireman190 Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 Update.....Engine not seized, turned easily by hand. So first hurdle overcome. Attached are some interior photos. Thank yo again to everyone offering advice and guidance. Please keep it coming!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fireman190 Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 On 8/27/2016 at 7:55 PM, Reg Evans said: Nice car ! Looks like it might shine up too. Any interior shots ? I posted some interior shots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 Wow, that car looks pretty well preserved and it has the deluxe steering wheel, a nice option! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fireman190 Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 Dash is almost perfect. ...headliner dry rotted. But nothing major. Floor pan front and back feel pretty solid. Exhaust rusted thru mid car..so that needs replaced. Brake pedal very loose...goes right to floor. But over all happy with it so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 AWESOME interior and with the accessory clock in the glove box door!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 The brakes are definitely going to need an overhaul which you'll want to do anyway. I would put new lining on the shoes just to be safe. Also check the rear shoes for signs of oil leakage from the rear axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 Xclnt news. It might be a good idea to try a compression test to see if you have any stuck valves to deal with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JoplinDB Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Let us know with updates! I'd love to see the progress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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