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Turn signal cancelling pin


jframe

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Ok, one more question, and I PROMISE I'll be through with this wood steering wheel project. Popped it back apart tonight to put the roll pin in the back of the hub that cancels the turn signals when the wheel straightens up. Only problem, after going back completely together, they still don't cancel. I put the pin in the only hole on the back of the hub where the pin seemed like the press fit that it was in the original wheel. Is there something in the column that that pin slides into that I somehow missed? If I had clocked the wheel

differently, the position would have been off.

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I will, as soon as I can pull the wheel back off. It was hot, humid, and late last night, and the only way to test the cancelling is to put it COMPLETELY back together, so I didn't have time to tear it down again.

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I've seen three part #'s on hubs. Not sure if the years are correct and not sure why there is no '63. If someone has access to a parts book they can check.

 

9743696 '65-66
9743264 '65-66
770819    I understand to be '64

 

I've handled numerous wood wheels and I've seen the straight pin and the bent one. I always thought the bent pin was to make the 64 fit 65-66 or vise versa. Tom's comment makes sense though. I've also seen several with a white plastic inverted cup that I assume slipped down into the steering column. I'm sure I still have one in a box of parts in the closet.

 

Rick

 

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I bought a tilt column that was a '63 to install into my '64. i had the SAME problem where the signals WOULD NOT cancel, but I used my original '64 non wood steering wheel. I used a bent/offset pin from a '63 tilt wheel, not wood, & then all has been OK for 20+ yrs. now.

 

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, jframe said:

It is a tilt column. The pin I pulled from the original wheel was straight, and had been in there for 51 years, and worked fine.

Yes, but you changed the steering wheel !! You have a `64 hub, which has the hole for the cancelling pin closer to the centerline of the steering shaft as compared to a `65 hub. You need an offset pin, as was used in `64 and as Tom has stated, to bring the pin outboard to the same location as a straight pin in a `65 hub would be. Post the casting number on the underside of the hub to confirm before reassembling,

 Tom Mooney

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34 minutes ago, buickbonehead said:

I've seen three part #'s on hubs. Not sure if the years are correct and not sure why there is no '63. If someone has access to a parts book they can check.

 

9743696 '65-66
9743264 '65-66
770819    I understand to be '64

 

I've handled numerous wood wheels and I've seen the straight pin and the bent one. I always thought the bent pin was to make the 64 fit 65-66 or vise versa. Tom's comment makes sense though. I've also seen several with a white plastic inverted cup that I assume slipped down into the steering column. I'm sure I still have one in a box of parts in the closet.

 

Rick

 

Rick,

  Your first casting number (NOT same as part number in the parts books) is a `66 hub which accepts a white plastic cup shaped canceling cam.

  Your second number is a `65 hub.

  Your third number is a `64 hub.

  There is no number for `63 because the wood wheel was not offered in `63 so a chrome wood wheel hub does not exist.

  The white plastic cup is a `66 tilt wheel cancel cam.

  Tom Mooney

 

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23 minutes ago, telriv said:

I bought a tilt column that was a '63 to install into my '64. i had the SAME problem where the signals WOULD NOT cancel, but I used my original '64 non wood steering wheel. I used a bent/offset pin from a '63 tilt wheel, not wood, & then all has been OK for 20+ yrs. now.

 

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

Hi Tom,

  This is because in `64 a non-tilt steering wheel was built with a straight pin. A tilt wheel has the outboard offset pin to contact the cancelling shoes.

  In `65 the location of the cancelling pin hole was moved outboard in the `65 hub so a straight pin in a `65 hub places the pin in the same location as an offset pin in a `63-`64 hub.

  The above information in my last posts took me years experience and time in the parts books to determine and it is accurate. Take it to the bank....

  Tom Mooney

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30 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:

Yes, but you changed the steering wheel !! You have a `64 hub, which has the hole for the cancelling pin closer to the centerline of the steering shaft as compared to a `65 hub. You need an offset pin, as was used in `64 and as Tom has stated, to bring the pin outboard to the same location as a straight pin in a `65 hub would be. Post the casting number on the underside of the hub to confirm before reassembling,

 Tom Mooney

Yep, and I bet it could be from a 64 or 66 car possibly. I wonder if I could find one of those bent pins somewhere (needle in a haystack), and it would work then. My car is a 65; virtually all of them had tilt columns. I have already put it back together, but I can get a puller back and disassemble it when I get the chance.

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1 minute ago, jframe said:

......................., but I can get a puller back and disassemble it when I get the chance.

Dude!....you are now the board authority on this process. When you bought that wheel did you think it would take you on this wild ride?

 

I know i'm getting some nagging questions answered that I've been wondering about for years.

 

Rick

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Great pics Tom. 

This is a VERY informative post. When I got my wood wheel it had no cancelling pin nor had any threaded holes to mount the notched plastic cup used on the 66 as noted above.  The two mounting screw holes in the cup (took cup from standard 66 wheel) did line up with two of the holes in the hub that were smooth with no threads only part way down. These were 2 of the 3 holes the plastic ring with 3 standoffs were fastened to on the opposite side. To install the ring I tapped the holes 10x32 1/4 deep and cut screws just the right length so they wouldn't hit the other standoff screws. Imagine me who never worked with wood wheels before trying to figure out why I had to do this. I knew there had to be a logical explanation.

So, the white cup used in 66 is one year only because 67 had a totally different switch and cancelling system which was more prone to failure. 

IMG_2043.jpg

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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It is just a regular roll pin. You can find them at just about any hardware store. You'll just have to experiment with the bending. It would seem you just need to get the bend close then rotate the bent pin until you get the correct distance from the center hole. Obviously use your old steering wheel for a measurement.

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You will have better luck bending a pice of round steel bar stock than a roll pin. Roll pins are hardened and will crack and break when you try to bend them. Go to Lowe's and see if they have the right size steel rod. They sell these in two or three foot lengths for a few dollars. Give you plenty to experiment with.

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On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 4:00 PM, 1965rivgs said:

Here is the only pic I have of the backside of my wood wheel hub. If anyone can read that casting number, let me know.

576eda724d5fb_20160625_115647(800x450).jpg.22786fb6d85f3c3c51cd32f27796abf7.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Old thread, I know, but just wanted to report I found an offset cancelling pin, and turn signals work perfectly now. Here is a picture of the back of my wood wheel hub; seems to be a '66 casting number, but it does not take a plastic cup to cancel, but rather, the roll pin. Any ideas?

20161029_130715.jpg

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