mcdougall Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 Hi I am a first time poster on this forum, having recently bought the 1924/45 McLaughlin advertised on this site. I am looking for advice on a badly warped manifold where it is bolted to head,can this be straightened? There is plenty of advice on internet about straightening model t ford manifolds ,can this be done with the 24/45 buick? Would anybody have a good manifold for sale and is anybody remanufacturing this item I am based in Scotland. alex 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 I have a spare if you need one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 23 hours ago, mcdougall said: Hi I am a first time poster on this forum, having recently bought the 1924/45 McLaughlin advertised on this site. alex Alex, Congratulations on buying such a beautifully restored Buick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdougall Posted July 3, 2016 Author Share Posted July 3, 2016 Hi mark I would be very interested in your manifold, how straight is it? When I put a straight edge between the two outer ports the intermediate ports vary from 1/4 to 3/8 inches lower. Thank you for replying to my post. regards alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROD W Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 Alex When you say the intermediate ports are lower. Do you mean the exhaust manifold ports or the inlet manifold ports as well. I ran a straight edge across a spare engine I have and the intermediate exhaust ports are more than 1/8 lower and the inlet ports are a 1/4 or more. You can,t really go by the external, as this is a cast manifold and varies from port to port, It is the internal machined faces of the manifold that matter. If your manifold is not leaking I would not be concerned. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdougall Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 20 hours ago, ROD W said: Alex When you say the intermediate ports are lower. Do you mean the exhaust manifold ports or the inlet manifold ports as well. I ran a straight edge across a spare engine I have and the intermediate exhaust ports are more than 1/8 lower and the inlet ports are a 1/4 or more. You can,t really go by the external, as this is a cast manifold and varies from port to port, It is the internal machined faces of the manifold that matter. If your manifold is not leaking I would not be concerned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdougall Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 21 hours ago, ROD W said: Alex When you say the intermediate ports are lower. Do you mean the exhaust manifold ports or the inlet manifold ports as well. I ran a straight edge across a spare engine I have and the intermediate exhaust ports are more than 1/8 lower and the inlet ports are a 1/4 or more. You can,t really go by the external, as this is a cast manifold and varies from port to port, It is the internal machined faces of the manifold that matter. If your manifold is not leaking I would not be concerned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdougall Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 Hi rod w sorry about previous posting mistakes. It is only the exhaust manifold I am concerned about,.I have tried to upload picture of the manifold, but have not been succesfull. If I run a straight edge along the top of the ,machined holes on the inside of the manifold the four intermediate ports line up okay,but the two outer ports are way out, with the straight edge passing about a third of the way down the ports. regards alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 I understand what Alex is saying as I have a '50 exhaust manifold that is the same way. Both #1 and #2 ports are warped up about 1/4 to 1/2 inch, therefore covering the bottom of the port in the head by the same amount. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Alex, I will take some photos and post them here. Stay tuned... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdougall Posted July 6, 2016 Author Share Posted July 6, 2016 Hi first born. You have described exactly the problem I have with my manifold,many thanks. Regards alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Here you go... All straight from end to end. I am leaving for a car tour & will be back Monday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Make sure that you use the correct attachment washers, etc. Mark can maybe post the information on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 This is from a previous posting and would also apply to 6 cylinder manifolds: Straight Eight exhaust manifold installation Cracked exhaust manifolds are a common nightmare with the straight eight engine. The manifold is long and expands as it heats up. When installed tightly, the manifold has no place to expand and cracks, usually somewhere near the center of the exhaust manifold. The remedy and solution for this malady is to install the manifold looser so that it can slip as it expands and slip again as it contracts. I learned a lot about this procedure in discussions on the Prewar Buick BLOG on the internet. I recommend these steps: 1. Find an exhaust manifold that is not cracked (most difficult step). 2. Buy eight “Belleville type spring washers” to hold the manifold in place. I was able to order them from the local Fastenal outlet. These replace the cast washers that were originally used (many of mine were worn flat and had no concave surface left. You want the one inch washers with a 3/8 inch hole. Washers cost about a dollar apiece. 3. Have both manifolds and the ‘box’ that connects them together sand blasted. 4. Paint the exhaust manifold and the ‘box’ with high temp cast iron gray paint (available from Eastwood Company in Pottstown, Pennsylvania). 5. Paint the intake manifold (mine was black) as necessary. 6. Flatten and plane the exhaust manifold at a machine shop or with a large belt sander. 7. Buy new gaskets for all connections. The better gaskets have metal webbing built into the gasket. The manifold gaskets should be completely enclosed with copper (both sides with a ring sealing each hole (there are twelve holes). The manifold gasket for my ’40 Special came in three pieces. 8. Assemble the manifolds to the ‘box’ leaving all bolts loose so that they can move during installation. I used lock washers here. 9. Clean the intake manifold ‘rings’ that go between then intake manifold and the engine block. Install them into the intake ports on the block so that the tapered side of the rings is pointing outward (this makes installation of the intake manifold easier). 10. Paint the engine block surfaces that are to receive the gaskets with copper ‘slippery’ paint. I used Fel-Pro C5A Anti-Seize Lubricant. It is copper based. 11. Paint the manifold bearing surfaces with this slippery paint also. 12. Press the manifold gaskets onto the engine block. The rings should hold them hanging in place. 13. Hold the manifold to the engine and adjust as necessary to allow the intake rings to seat into the intake manifold. Four hands are handy for this step. 14. Install some manifold bolts to hold the whole mechanism in place. Place the Belleville washers cup side toward the engine. This provides less surface area holding the manifold in place, allowing it to slip. Do not tighten any bolts at this time; just snug those up to keep the intake rings seated. 15. Begin to tighten the manifold bolts, working from the center alternately to the front and back of the engine. engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egm262 Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 (edited) It seems I have more in common with Alex than being a first time poster as I also have an exhaust manifold that is no longer aligned with the ports. In my case the manifold checks true as shown in Mark's pictures, however, if the straight edge is rotated 90 degrees the ports do not align. Placing the straight edge on the top of the two end ports indicates the middle ports are lower, unlike the ports in the block which do align end to end. I tried to raise the manifold at the ends to split the difference, but had no luck, although I may try that again using a different technique. As a temporary fix I applied exhaust joint and crack sealant at the top of the ports after replacing the gaskets. Since then, in about 300 miles of driving I have had to add some additional sealant one time. I have a 1926 model 45 with a master six and figured I would try the model T fix if I ever get around to procuring another manifold so I don't have to worry about compounding the problem. Thanks to all who post such a wealth of valuable information! (Sorry for being inept at attaching my diagram in a better form) Manifold Cad.pdf Edited July 7, 2016 by egm262 added info (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 I am back from the KISS one & two cylinder tour. I put a straight edge on the top of the ports on my spare & they are all within 1/8" of each other. It is available; so just make an offer via private message if you are interested and include your location to calculate shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdougall Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 HI mark shaw Many thanks for your detailed information on fitting manifolds,lots of good advice here Regarding the picture of your manifold you posted.,this is different from the one fitted to my car. Your manifold shows the two outer port bolt fastenings to be on the outside where mine are on the inside,also I do not have the flat webs with the mounting holes between the other ports. My manifold is the same as the one pictured in my 1924 parts manual,part number 167174. can your manifold be adapted?. Regards alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 I dunno. This one came from a 1924 doodlebug tractor with a Buick engine. The intake manifold has a square profile and I understand that the only difference between 1924 & 1925 engines is that one is square and the other is a round profile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdougall Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 Hi mark shaw.. Regarding the manifold picture you posted for me,this looks like a 1928 model, Perhaps somebody more experienced could comment. Many thanks for your assistance .it is much appreciated. Can anybody else help with a suitable manifold to help get my car on road . Regards alex from scotland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bourque Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 Quote , Would this work for you? The one with the bolts in it (lower one) is 1925 Master, the one with the straight edge is 1924 Master with the casting number 167174, casting date 2/14/24 Jim Bourque Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdougall Posted July 16, 2016 Author Share Posted July 16, 2016 Hi jim bourque. Many thanks for responding to my post for a replacement manifold, I see from a previous post,you list a contact phone number,can I contact you on this number with a view to purchase?. regards alex mcdougall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bourque Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 Alex That would be fine...you could also text to that number your address so I can start to figure out the best way to ship this to you. I have never shipped anything across the pond and would appreciate any suggestions from others who have done so. Jim Bourque Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdougall Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Hi Jim bourque, and all responders to my post. Many thanks to all who responded to my post about manifold,lots of good information and advice. Many thanks especially to Jim bourque for selling me a really nice 100% straight manifold at a fair price. One of the nicest things about this hobby ,are the real gentlemen you come in contact with. Soon I will now be able to have my first ride in the buick around the hills and glens of Scotland cant wait. Regards alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now