egm262

I got rings for my 1926 Master Six from Otto Gas Engine Works in Elkton, MD. The owner, Dave, is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to rings. I was able to pick mine up in person and his supply of rings is beyond imagination. His website is ringspacers.com. He can be tough to reach on the phone, it's all a matter of timing.

I met with Dave today, and WOW what a guy and what a place. Mark's write up on Dave is spot on. He took his time and searched his incredible inventory, all the while showing me around. I now have the rings I need! I cannot thank you guys enough for sending me to him. gene

Mark, Thanks for the additional info. Thanks to all you other guys who continue to amaze me with your incredible posts across the forum as well! gene

A big thanks to Mark and JFranklin! I had a wonderful chat with Dave at Otto’s on the phone today. He took a great deal of his time to explain many different options that may exist for my pistons. He has the original rings in stock, but suggested that perhaps there are better routes to follow, still at a much lower cost than replacing the pistons. I’m going to meet with him in the not too distant future to show him what I am dealing with. Thanks again for directing me to him!

I’m in the process of bringing my 1926 Master Six back to life and I’m looking for information on new rings for the original pistons. Does anyone know of a possible source for rings? I’m also interested in opinions on using the original pistons, or should I just break down and spend the money for new pistons and increase the bore ? Thanks for the help! gene moyer

I hope these images clarify what I am dealing with. The first shows how I measured the manifold to come up with a length of 29 5/8". The second image shows that when a straight edge is placed even with the port on each end, the others do not align. I checked the head to confirm they should in fact align. When using a copper gasket I tried to split the difference without any success. I sure was relieved with Larry's post mentioning the pilot rings are only on the exhaust ports, because when I checked I only had 3 and they were labeled intake.

Thanks Hugh and Larry, I replaced the studs shortly after purchasing the car, and now new studs were installed with the work on the head. The manifold rings were still there when I removed the manifold and replaced the studs and gasket, but I still had a nasty exhaust leak. Back then I had a friend fabricate stainless washers to match the ones that were still on the manifold, but thanks to the forum I became aware of the necessary Bellville washers and have already purchased them. I am so grateful for all the information posted on this forum.

Thanks Larry and Mark! I will post the measurements when I return to PA. I am currently away from home.

I've been a forum member for 7 or 8 years but have only one post because I always find what I need to know from all the dedicated members who provide insight, advice, and instructions. I now need to ask for help in two areas. I am seeking information on the possibility of obtaining rings for my original pistons. The block is at the shop and shows .009 wear on the cylinders, and as a cost saving measure I am looking for .010 over rings, as I believe they were available in years gone by. The head has already been cleaned and fitted with new valves, etc. Am I foolish to think I can get away without new pistons? The other issue I have is with my exhaust manifold. As I stated in my one and only post, it does not align with the exhaust ports. I'm sure it's a result of missing studs and the car being driven to the point of overheating because of a clogged cooling system. I had success in addressing the cooling system issues thanks to this forum. I am hoping someone can help me in my quest for a manifold that will match my exhaust ports. A burnt valve and a nasty oil leak between the block and the crankcase sent me down this path. Thanks for any and all help!

It seems I have more in common with Alex than being a first time poster as I also have an exhaust manifold that is no longer aligned with the ports. In my case the manifold checks true as shown in Mark's pictures, however, if the straight edge is rotated 90 degrees the ports do not align. Placing the straight edge on the top of the two end ports indicates the middle ports are lower, unlike the ports in the block which do align end to end. I tried to raise the manifold at the ends to split the difference, but had no luck, although I may try that again using a different technique. As a temporary fix I applied exhaust joint and crack sealant at the top of the ports after replacing the gaskets. Since then, in about 300 miles of driving I have had to add some additional sealant one time. I have a 1926 model 45 with a master six and figured I would try the model T fix if I ever get around to procuring another manifold so I don't have to worry about compounding the problem. Thanks to all who post such a wealth of valuable information! (Sorry for being inept at attaching my diagram in a better form) Manifold Cad.pdf