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Parts car - conv.


ChrisWhewell

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Not a parts car by any measure I use. This one is a golden opportunity for someone to get a nice driver grade convertible on the cheap and put some work into it to correct the apparent deficiencies. Can't tell how good the top is so that could be an expensive addition to the list of work needed but overall it looks decent. Most likely needs an accumulator (somewhat pricey but no big deal) and if it has always been a Texas car then it probably has little rust to be concerned with.

Someone wanting a roadster at a relative bargain (typical convertible price is nearly three times the ask on this one) would do well to pick this up IMHO.

KDirk

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Guest PontiacDude210

There's a high mile burgundy over tan with a tan top(a color combo I didn't know I liked til I saw it) listed locally for 9k, and that's a MI car. This is a great deal for a mechanically inclined person.

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Ooh, I do like the claret red/tan combo (coupe or vert) a lot. Still kicking around repainting the scrub 88 in something other than factory white when I do it. Had considered white diamond but also giving some weight to doing claret red since the interior is burgundy and I don't care for black paint jobs due to the excessive upkeep. That leaves silver or gunmetal as the remaining workable options that would go ok with the interior. I find silver rather boring and though I like gunmetal I think I'd like something more colorful if I'm changing the color anyway.

Or, I could swap out the burgundy interior to tan and paint it British racing green. Would consider polo green too but prefer to avoid metallic and pearlescent paint jobs due to added cost and more diffcult paint process to get consistency all the way around the car.

I have time to kick it around since it will be a while before it gets paint. And I do have most needed parts for an interior swap to tan if I really wanted to.

KDirk

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I don't think it is a junker either. Get the right parts for the brakes, fix the A/C if you want [Does a 'vert really need A/C?] And you are cruizin. From the little you can see of the 16 ways and drivers door they look good for starters. Worth $2000.00 IMHO.

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Go for it. I would if it was that close to me, depsite having too many cars already. I'd just sell one of the others. Heck, I already have the brake parts on hand and could get that fixed in an afternoon so would have little to no additional cost there other than what I had already spent to have them in my stock. Probably a good thing it is too far for me to seriously consider or I'd be too tempted to get it.

KDirk

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Just looked at it on my phone. Needs a hood and complete pass headlamp setup among other things. Top looked a bit rough too, more than the Texas one. Not nearly the deal the one in Dallas looks to be, but if the price came down a few hundred more it could be worth fixing up. No matter to me presently, I'm unable to touch another one with the one I just picked up to part out.

KDirk

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  • 2 weeks later...

According to the gentleman that I bought it from, it was one-family-owned. His father bought It brand new in Las Vegas. It went from his father to his sister, and then to him. When I first looked at it, the brake pump was running continuously with the key on, so when I picked it up, I unplugged it to keep it from self-destructing. I drove it 50-something miles home (the Gentleman that I bought it from had already gone through all the fluids and basic maintenance needs, but the power brakes not working was too much for him). I have driven it about 100 miles total so far, and other than no power brakes/ABS (and the smell of old gas), it drove well. It has had the hood and the driver's fender replaced, but upon cursory inspection, I found no structual damage. The factory radio AND CD player have been replaced with a *GASP* aftermarket stereo (done by the daughter), and it's faceplate is missing. I just picked it up this morning, so more details to follow as I get a chance to go over it more. One shocker to me was when I went to transfer the title, the Texas DMV charged me tax on the "Standard Presumptive Value" of $4,880! I was thinking $100 or so TT&L, NOT $300! Another way the government gets what they want of your money, regardless of what you actually PAID for a vehicle. What's next, charging sales tax on what THEY think that your (clothes, tools, hardware) SHOULD cost? I better quit before I give them any more ideas! 

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Good to hear. Please, for your safety and everyone else on the road around you, get the ABS fixed as quickly as possible or bench the car until you do. Unlike most newer cars where the ABS augments standard hydraulic brakes, the Teves Mk II ABS system on the Reatta (all 88-90 models) is an integral system. If the system is unable to build operating pressure you effectively have virtually no braking capability. You may have a bad accumulator (readily available from a couple of aftermarket suppliers) and/or a bad pressure switch (recently discontinued and now quite difficult to find).

You are probably better with afternarket sound on these cars unless you really like to stay factory original. Honestly, the stock audio system was decent when it was new (relative to common factory offerings 1990) but is easily eclipsed by even middle of the road offerings in current afternarket. If the current head unit is decent, make sure your speakers are good. If they are factory original they are probably shot due to deterioration of the foam surrounds on the woofers. Fronts are 5.25" woofers, rears are 4x10 on a convertible which leaves you rather limited options in new speakers. None will get you great bass response due to the odd cone geometry. If you like it to thump a bit a remote powered sub will probably be in order.

In any case, you probably have made out well on this deal.

KDirk

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Thanks, Kevin! I appreciate the information. I was very careful driving it and understand the Teves system. I have the parts from my totaled 1990 coupe (hit by a red-light-runner) and will fix it soon, as my wife is hinting that she would like to drive it (I love almost seventy degree winter weather in Texas!). I agree that aftermarket sound is the way to go for better sound and flexibility, it is just a bummer to see a gaping hole where the factory CD player was :-(

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Just a thought but I put a Clarion 702  in my 'vert for the Bluetooth and Handsfree. With the 702 I could program the lights to the greenish color or the stock dash. Should be a long thread on exactly what was needed to avoid butchering the wiring harness.

 

Also needed:

Metra 70-1858 Radio Wiring Harness For GM 88-05 Harness 
Metra 40-GM10 GM Antenna Adapter
Metra 99-4000 Dash Kit For GM 82-04/Isuzu 98-01 with Pocket

post-76431-0-97528100-1449283764_thumb.j

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I like it! Now, what to do about the hole left where the CD player used to be in mine? I see yours still has it in the console. I guess I could swap out the console panel with the compartment from my totaled coupe. I will have to research the options. Anyone have any other ideas? Thanks to everyone, I love community!

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  • 1 month later...

Well, I've been busy with a lot of work, but the weather has been so nice, I just had to fix the brakes so that I could drive it more! I had to change the brake pump out. I tried changing the accumulator first, but still had the pump running full time with no fluid level change or pedal change. After changing the pump, all is well with no Brake or ABS lights on anymore! I changed the rear speakers with some Kickers and replaced the radio with a Nesa brand unit that I purchased from a pawn shop for $20 (not a very high-end unit, but it is a DVD double DIN that fits in a single DIN space). I also bought some Kickers for the front, but haven't had the time to swap those out yet. More to come later!

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checked into it.. the miles are high (180k ish), the nose panel is black, and theres something wrong with the top rear bow above the back window.. like its just not seating in place properly. otherwise a decent optioned convt that runs strong and seems like a deal

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