tbrown Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 I have a engine from what I was told was a 1914 car. This was used to grind feed on my grandparents farm until the 1960's Is there anyway to tell the year? It was taken apart to service the exhaust valves and never used after that, I am missing some valve parts for the exhaust valves. I have the stewart speedometer and the crank. Everything else seems complete on the engine. It doesn't turn over but the transmission and clutch seem to operate fine. I can't find much info online and am looking for anyone that knows anything about the engine and if its worthwhile to get running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwellens Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 If you can read the serial number, the year can be determined. The serial number would be on the drivers side of the engine, forward near the top of the crankcase above the motor support to the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrown Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 Its at my dads in the shed. I will check next time I'm there. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwellens Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 A picture is attached to help you find it. You may have to scrape the paint/rust off to see.serial number.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrown Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 Since I don't have the rest of the car is there any value to this engine? Other than sentimental? I had thought if I can get it running maybe build a doodlebug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 I'm sure its worth something to someone who has a similar 4-cylinder REO. Many of the parts will fit the earlier 4-cylinder, made in 1910 and 1911. Yours has a center shift so 1912 is the earliest possible year and '14 is very reasonable. I've had 2 of the early types and was very happy to get the rusted, seized and smashed (rod through the case) wreck of a similar engine because the timing gears on mine were worn to points. The later parts interchanged readily. It likely also has a one-piece camshaft — the earlier cars had the lobes individually pinned to the shaft and when I opened mine up 3 of the pins had fallen out, so I'd certainly have been a customer for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrown Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 Does anyone have any technical information? The valve train is very unique but seems fairly simple. Any tips or tricks for when I get a chance to go through everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 (edited) What would you like to know? Actually, the valve train is very conventional for the period. It is a simple IOE engine. The valves on top are the intakes and they are in cages. I think yours screw in. The exhaust valves are on the side, under screw in caps. It has roller lifters. The only really unique thing about the engine is that the lower half of the crankcase doesn't detach. All access is through the two square plates on the side and, theoretically at least, the main bearings were adjustable from outside the engine. If you look under the engine, you'll see that the main bearing caps are supported on sleeves that are threaded inside and out. You were supposed to be able to let off on the sleeve a quarter turn and tighten down the cap without taking the engine apart. I never tried that. It is crude, at best, though I put a lot of miles on one of those engines without any bearing trouble. Also, the rod caps are hinged... there is a bolt on only one side and a hinge pin on the other. When you say some parts are missing... what? The earlier valves just had a hole through the valve stem and a little dowel pin held the plate that retains the valve spring in place. I may even have a couple of those around, though I can't imagine where they might be, because I replaced my exhaust valves with more modern ones and use the modern plates (or whatever the proper name is) and valve keepers. The valve guides screw in with a 1" x 12 thread. I once made a new valve guide. They should be refaced with the guide in place. Edited July 9, 2015 by JV Puleo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrown Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 I'm missing one of the screw in caps and one or two exhaust valve keeper assemblies. The engine is stuck so I will end up pulling off the cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 I'll look and see if I have the keepers... though it may be a while before I can find them. If I do, I'll send you a PM and mail them to you. As to the cap, that is more of a problem. Its not a hard part to make, if you are a machinist, but making one of them would be very time consuming and, realistically, would be quite expensive... (by that I mean several hundred dollars). The best idea would be to find some other REO collectors and probably someone has an extra. Its not a part that wears out. I have several extras for the Mitchell engine I'm working on right now. I no longer have the smashed REO engine I described above, but it had all 4 caps and I never even tried to take them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Gockel Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Do you still have the Reo engine? Thanks, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Mahar Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 T Brown, I bought the 1913 REO that was for sale on Craiglist in the Columbus Ohio area. If you want to sell the engine let me know. It would make a great spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brasscarguy Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 The exhaust side of the engine will tell more. I believe the radiator is 1915/16. If the exhaust ports are rectangular rather than round and if the valve port plugs are not removeable it very well may be a 45hp truck motor, if so rather rare and will interchange with a 35hp bolt for bolt. These motors are really bullet proof with the exception of the bolt that holds the hinged rod together, how do I know that you ask? Well I started my barn fresh 1913 and drove it less than 1 block and bang the bolt broke and the rod decided to come out and see the daylight. Rather an expert on Reo 2 and 4 cylinder motors having rebuilt one of each. Justsayin' brasscarguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregory Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 I have a Reo owner looking for a early Reo engine any leads anyone ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30DodgePanel Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 14 hours ago, Mark Gregory said: I have a Reo owner looking for a early Reo engine any leads anyone ? PM Sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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