Guest erietim Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 my 37 Plymouth over heats I currently have it disassembled to the water distribution tube. tube seems fine my question, would it hurt, help,or make no difference if I flush the engine with the tube out thank you tim carroll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 It should help. When you say disassembled do you mean out of the car for a rebuild? In or out, you can remove the core plugs (3) on the left side of the engine and flush the block with a pressure washer. You will probably find a few inches of mud and rust in the bottom of the water jacket. Wash it out the best you can. You can also blow around with an air hose to dislodge dirt, and wash again. I mean an air nozzle with an extension, a steel tube. On most blow guns you can unscrew the tip and substitute a steel brake line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 You must have the rad out too. Is there a rad shop nearby that can clean and test it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 You must have the rad out too. Is there a rad shop nearby that can clean and test it?[/quote Agree. IF radiator has not been rodded out or recored, bet it is plugged. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 I think it would be easier to flush the block well with the tube out.But definitely follow Rusty's suggestion and pop the core/welch/freeze plugs on the left side of the engine. You'll most likely find the whole bottom of the water jacket is filled with crud.First Born is probably correct about the radiator being clogged too. But I'd probably start by back flushing it and then doing a flow test on it. Instructions for a flow test should be in the factory service manual and reprints are available of that. Well worth the money to have the manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest erietim Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 thanks for the reply just so i'm clear on this i am to flush with the pressure washer in the hole where i removed the distribution tube . i can also use air in the same area. i should also wash the holes where i removed the freeze plugs with the pressure washer and air and take the radiator to a shop. i have back flushed the radiator but don't know what its flow is i can't find any imfomation in the service manual on how to check the flow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 When you pry out the freeze plugs you will see a deposit of silt, mud and rust in the bottom of the water jackets. It will be obvious that you should wash it out. It is hard to get into all the nooks and crannies but do your best. The engine was designed with extra deep water jackets so it can have 2 or 3 inches of buildup without overheating.What kind of shape was the water distribution tube in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 If I recall correctly, the radiator flow test is done by blocking off the outlet (bottom), filling the radiator, then unblocking the bottom outlet. The water coming out should have enough flow to go up a certain number of inches. Unfortunately I am on travel at present and don't have my library with me to check the exact details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 When the core plugs are out, not only pressure clean but get a wire coat hanger and get in there and dig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 (edited) When the core plugs are out, not only pressure clean but get a wire coat hanger and get in there and dig.I prefer an air blower with an extension but to each his own. Most blowers have a removable tip that a brake line will screw into. Cut off the end of the brake line and flatten it a little for best results.I'm still wondering what kind of shape the distribution tube was in.The last old Flathead Chrysler that had an overheating problem, it turned out mice had filled the top tank with nests made of chewed up, brown paper towels. I did not find out how bad it was until I took the rad off, turned it upside down and flushed it with a garden hose. Edited August 10, 2014 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest erietim Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 gentlemen thank you for all the shared knowledge, not wanting the interior motor exposed to air i reassembled the radiator and water pump soon after my original post the tube was in great shape and slid right out i will use this information this weekend thanking you all tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen_Dyneto Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 In the majority of cases the major culprit in overheating is the radiator. I'd find the specification for flow rate and test it. I'll guess that the spec is about 25 gravity-flow gallons per minute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atlbluz Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 My P-6 always overheated after I rebuilt it. I drove it in N.J. for many years and could never keep it under 200 even running down the road. Well now it's in GA and had sat for a long time, pulled the rad and took it to the radiator shop, he said it was plugged up and always has been. Had him put in a new core and we cruise at 180 degrees all day long even in 95 degree heat. I am really glad it made that change. Drive on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 gentlemen thank you for all the shared knowledge, not wanting the interior motor exposed to air i reassembled the radiator and water pump soon after my original post the tube was in great shape and slid right out i will use this information this weekend thanking you all timIf the motor is all back together I wouldn't tear it apart to clean the water jackets. Get the rad flushed or flush it yourself. What makes you think it is overheating?Can you get a laser thermometer gun and check the temp of the radiator and of the engine? Cool spots on the rad indicate blockage. With a good coolant distribution tube, temp of the engine should be within 5 degrees, front to back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now