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Rust converter question.


39mm

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I used Eastwood's rust converter on the floors of my '64 and then went over that with their encapsulator. It's only been about a month so I can't tell you what the long term effects might be. The guy who owns the body shop was impressed with it.

Ed

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I purchased a gallon of corroseal and I'm very happy with it. It is a water-based product but has some viscosity to it so that it can be applied to vertical surfaces. I would recommend it.

Link is here: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Corroseal-1-gal-Rust-Converter-Primer-82331/202960541

I've noticed that the paintable surface it creates should be scuffed with a scotch-brite pad prior to painting. If this step is omitted there may not be enough 'tooth' in the surface and I've had issues with paint coverage. If you scuff the surface then there are no problems whatsoever.

I only use it where I cannot remove the rust mechanically (via a wire brush tool or media blaster).

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I used Eastwood's rust converter on the floors of my '64 and then went over that with their encapsulator. It's only been about a month so I can't tell you what the long term effects might be. The guy who owns the body shop was impressed with it.

Ed

Thanks, Ed.

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I purchased a gallon of corroseal and I'm very happy with it. It is a water-based product but has some viscosity to it so that it can be applied to vertical surfaces. I would recommend it.

Link is here: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Corroseal-1-gal-Rust-Converter-Primer-82331/202960541

I've noticed that the paintable surface it creates should be scuffed with a scotch-brite pad prior to painting. If this step is omitted there may not be enough 'tooth' in the surface and I've had issues with paint coverage. If you scuff the surface then there are no problems whatsoever.

I only use it where I cannot remove the rust mechanically (via a wire brush tool or media blaster).

Do you only use it where you can't remove the rust mechanically because you can't be sure it really does what the sellers say it does?

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I know that POR-15 was used on a small section of my battery tray - not enough damage to warrant a replacement, as I prefer to keep things as original as possible. It does what they say it does. I think there are some YouTube videos available. It may be one product to consider, IMO.

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Rust converters have become very popular and there are many. I bought some from Eastwood and then a restorer told me just buy a gallon of phosphoric acid from Home Depot for a fraction of the cost and it does the same thing. I've used both and honestly couldn't tell a difference in how they work. There probably is a difference but not sure what it is. Maybe the specialized stuff is less hazardous.

Any part you can have media blasted or wire wheeled to remove rust is better IMO but for some areas of a car that just don't make sense from a practicality or cost perspective so converters work well in those applications. Typically hidden places like floors are a good candidate to do exactly what Ed mentioned with a 1-2 punch of converter then encapsulator.

Also as mentioned products like POR 15 can be a one step process to cover and stop rust in its tracks. They really work. I used a POR 15 equivalent on various rusty undercarriage/chassis parts on a Jeep I was fixing up for a plow vehicle. Wasn't particular about prep and was very impressed with its performance. Good stuff worth the money.

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Rust converters have become very popular and there are many. I bought some from Eastwood and then a restorer told me just buy a gallon of phosphoric acid from Home Depot for a fraction of the cost and it does the same thing. I've used both and honestly couldn't tell a difference in how they work. There probably is a difference but not sure what it is. Maybe the specialized stuff is less hazardous.

Any part you can have media blasted or wire wheeled to remove rust is better IMO but for some areas of a car that just don't make sense from a practicality or cost perspective so converters work well in those applications. Typically hidden places like floors are a good candidate to do exactly what Ed mentioned with a 1-2 punch of converter then encapsulator.

Also as mentioned products like POR 15 can be a one step process to cover and stop rust in its tracks. They really work. I used a POR 15 equivalent on various rusty undercarriage/chassis parts on a Jeep I was fixing up for a plow vehicle. Wasn't particular about prep and was very impressed with its performance. Good stuff worth the money.

Thank you.

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I used this product http://www.kbs-coatings.com/chassis-paint-kit.html on my chassis & suspension components. Apparently, they were original partners with the POR15 guys. I can not comment on how it holds up to daily abuse cuz the chassis is still sitting in my garage. But I would use the product again & recommend it to anyone due to the ease of application...It is a three step process but I like it, results look like powder-coating to everyone who sees it lol the second step is a zinc-phosphate coating that smells like eggs but like Jason said above it is all environmentally safe stuff....I am surrounded by hazardous fumes regularly at work, any attempt at decreasing my chances of growing a third eye is worth the extra money. The link takes you to the $80 kit which adds a forth step (top coat), I used the $60, 3 step kit (no top coat since my chassis is not gonna be exposed to the sun).

You can find my build thread if you go thru my profile (I cant seem to attach the link right now) Post #20 is a full product write up I did on kbs-coatings with pix for you to enjoy.

More resent, in that same thread, I used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator for the first time & I was impressed...looked amazing enough that I didn't wanna top coat it but I did.....

Hope this helps

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)
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