Stove Pipe Warning!

[60FlatTop]

You can stop into an air conditioning supply house and pick up a swedging tool. We use them to minimize joints in refrigeration systems. Then use a 1/4" drive socket to seat the new piece in place.

Since the job is done pick up the tool and you will never need it.

On the choke stove and tube parts. No one was supposed to keep the car so long that those internal parts would fail. It reminds me of the time we were at the Rolls plant discussing the sequence of re-assembly of a 1935 20/25 brake servo. Charles stopped us in mid-sentence and asked "Gentlemen, you do not have the means to purchase a newer model?"

Bernie

[Gene Brink]

Measure carefully, Robert. Just fixed the very same problem on my daughters '65 Rambler and the tube appeared to be 3/8ths o.d. but was actually 23/64th! After watching ebay for months finally snagged a nos piece for $5 (what a happy day that was). Once you have correct measurements you may be able to pick up something that will fit but not be listed as a Buick part. Search on ebay for choke heat tube to see some pictures.

[Guest shadetree77]

As a follow up I feel it necessary to report that the vendor did respond to my email and offered to send me a replacement kit.

Thanks for the info. Gene. I think that may be the case here as well. Must be a strange diameter. I search EBAY nightly for parts and have for over 2 years now. I don't think I've EVER seen a replacement tube for my car. I'll keep an eye out though as I would like to put a NOS piece back in there at some point.

[Guest drg11t]

Hi guys I replaced a 2 barrel with the 322 4 barrel carter and cannot find where this stove pipe comes from out of the manifold...As the 2 barrel was never connected and the 4 barrel I would love to connect otherwise I am having trouble starting the car. I have looked at all the close up pics but cannot find a hole in my manifold for it to go, can anyone help me??? maybe a pic with enough engine in the shot to locate it for me, or a description of location would be great?? Thanks in advance

[old-tank]

Inside of RH (passenger side) manifold just above outlet to exhaust pipe.

[Eric W]

Robert - with the new piece of pipe in the manifold, is the tube to the choke a loose fit? If so, I may try drilling/reaming the manifold so a 3/8" tube will fit and just stake it a little. I believe the tube in the manifold on my car has a leak - as far as I can tell the tube from the choke to the manifold does not go very far into the manifold, so the piece of tube staked or otherwise stuck in the manifold has a hole where I can't see it - allowing exhaust to get up to the choke. (Not that my car's run in the past 19 years, but there was a lot of soot in the choke when I cleaned up the carb...) The tube from manifold to choke on my car is not aluminum.

[Guest shadetree77]

Eric, I got the top part to fit tightly by expanding the tube and gently hammering it in a little. The bottom part was a loose fit and I had to seal it with fireplace cement. Probably a temporary solution. Making a 3/8" tube fit in there would be ideal. I'm not sure it could be done without removing the manifold though. There are technically two holes, one on top and one on bottom. It isn't one, long hole. So you would have to drill out the top one, then flip the manifold over and drill out the bottom one. Hard to do with the manifold in place. Taking it off opens up a whole new can of worms. My original choke tube was not aluminum either. But the replacements ARE. It seems to do fine if it doesn't make contact with the hot manifold. If it does, you can be assured that it will promptly melt. Use steel tubing to replace the manifold tube. Good luck and let me know how it goes.

[Eric W]

I have drilled bunches of holes through hollow things (tubes) from one side only. That way the 2 hole segments you know are lined up - they were drilled with one continuous drill bit. What I was thinking for this case is find the drill size that gives a snug fit for a 3/8" tube, and drill through the manifold with that. On the segment of 3/8" tube, expand it a little on one end. Install through the manifold from the bottom so the bottom end is anchored by the expanded portion, and with it pushed out the top, stake that end so it won't drop out. Because the drilled hole and tube diameter is intended to be extremely close (maybe even hole slightly undersize - put tube in freezer and hit manifold with heat gun before installing), there won't be leakage to worry about.

What I'm trying to figure out is the choke tube. On my car as it is now, the choke tube only goes a little way into the manifold tube. Maybe 1/2", if that. It's a snug fit, so the manifold tube acts as an anchor for the bottom end of the choke tube (well, maybe the rust between the parts is the anchor). If I go with a larger diameter tube through the manifold, the choke tube will be rattling around unless I add a sleeve or something. Hmm. Another way would be to use a thicker wall 3/8" tube and counterbore it to be snug on the choke tube OD. No spacer needed.

[JohnD1956]

Inside of RH (passenger side) manifold just above outlet to exhaust pipe.

You can't see this from above the car. It's on the engine side of the manifold. You may be able to see it holding a mirror against the firewall and looking at the inside edge of the passengers exhaust manifold.

[Guest drg11t]

Thanks Guys, I have now found it... What a pain this could be ARGGGGH