35cz8 Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 What is the best and most original replacement pads to mount the body back to the frame for a 1936 Dodge? Where is the best place to get them? I have found universal round rubber pads but if possible, I would like to go back to something closer to the original. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Hi,My 34 Originally had a woven fabric type body pad as per the photo. When I came to that part of my restoration a friend suggested I use a rubber compound pad. I sourced some from a guy around the corner and he cut them in the correct sizes for me. The rubber he sold me is often used in gymnasiums where the weight lifters slam their weights onto the floor, the rubber mats is the same stuff and only 6mm thick. It blends in nicely too as its the same colour as the chassis and underbody paint.Cheersian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I dont know what they used exactly in 36 but I have used the thick rubber truck bedliner material you will find was sometimes used to protect the floors, I cut it to the shape I needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I'm planning to use conveyer belting or mine belt. It comes in a variety of sizes and has the fabric reinforcement . I think the '36's used 1/4 in. and maybe 5/16 in. pads. Some are fastened to the frame rails with a rivet type nail. On my sedan, the pads at the rear doors fold down over the frame as well but I don't know if thats holds true for the coupes. I'm not sure of the actual thicknesses as mine are pretty well distorted. There are no reproduced mounting pads available for '36 Dodge cars. If you can't find anything ,let me know as there used to be a belting company close to my home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I agree with jpage. Having a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" conveyor belting hanging around is really helpful in restoring Floating Power engines and body mounts. You can cut the stuff with a jig saw to get a piece out of the belt and then trim it on a band saw. You drill the holes in it by using wood drills. This is how I make the front and rear mounts for the floating power setup and body mount pads. No big search through catalogs and the internet. No wait. Instant service. And corded belting will last 'forever'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
35cz8 Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 Thanks guys for the info and help with this. I lifted the body off the frame and on to saw horses but before I take the frame in for cleaning, I want to take pics and make up the pads while my old ones are still in place. Now I will have to locate the conveyer belting and start making the pads. I had a lot of problems removing some of the body bolts so will need to get the broken ones out also. Still a long ways to go, but it is proving to be a fun project to do with my grandsons. Jpage, there are several of the pads that fold over the side on the coupe as well and that is why I wanted to locate either the right pads or a suitable material to make them from that can be folded. Conveyer belting sounds like a good choice and hopefully will be easy to get. Jason, I think I may have a bed liner that I took out of my last truck before I sold it so may just try that too. Thanks again, back to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 The bed liner ( at least that was installed in Ford trucks a few years ago ) is also fabric reinforced and no less than 3/8 thick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 You have to be careful about thickness. If the pads are too thick ,the body will ride too high and your hood will not line up correctly. Also some pads may vary in thickness depending on where they are located on the frame. I think the very front ones are two pcs. stacked up. I don't think most are any thicker than 5/6 or 3/8 in. dia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 The body pads came in various thickness's For the reason jpage has mentioned Not only for hood alignment but also doors as well Good luck it can be fustrating aligning up a body Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 I would advise setting the body back on the frame(without the pads) and look for gaps under the mounting areas. If there are any, measure the gaps on both sides to see if they're the same. If they are not, it could indicate a twisted frame or body; the floors on these Dodges(especially the sedans) will sag some due to lack of support near the floorboard area.The gap measurements will give you an idea of what thicknesses to use, just remember to add from the basic thickness you start with (which I think is 1/4 in.). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
35cz8 Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 I sure wish there were some kind of records or spec books that list this kind of info. I will have to look for my 1936 Dodge parts book and see if they list any part numbers for these pads and if so, how many of each number. That might be a start to get it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 It will just list the part numbers for the individual pads but won't give you any further info. Best think is to get an answer from some one who already replaced them. When the cars were on the road nobody needed to know the thicknesses, you just bought the pads if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
35cz8 Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 You are right. I need to find someone that has done a frame up, body off restoration of a 1936 Dodge and try to get the info. If I should happen to find the measurements. I will be sure to post them here. This could be a long hard search but I will give it a try.Thanks.It will just list the part numbers for the individual pads but won't give you any further info. Best think is to get an answer from some one who already replaced them. When the cars were on the road nobody needed to know the thicknesses, you just bought the pads if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1936 D2 Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 I will "third" the opinions of jpage and DodgeKCL concerning using conveyor belt. It looks the most similar to the original look and is readily available in various thicknesses. The cording inside of it is what gives it a similar look.I would also think that measuring the current thicknesses of the different pads that are in place now will give you an excellent idea of where you will be going concerning the correct placement of the new pads. The conveyor belt is (I think) a bit firmer in consistency than the originals but the originals are now packed down to the correct thickness for your vehicle and would be a very good place to start from for the correct thickness of the new material. I did not remove the body from the frame on my car in my avatar just for these reasons, but I did remove the body from my earlier (first) car which I am now just starting to work on after being stored "for ever". That one already has the pads removed and all jumbled up so I can't tell you the correct thicknesses for pads in certain locations. If you get that info, would you please post it here so we may all benefit from your research? Also you may find it wise to locate the "hidden" frame number and take some scaled photos of it and it's exact location while you have the body off and before the number would get damaged or covered up again. It is quite lightly stamped compared to the stamped engine block number. There has been quite a lot of discussion over the years concerning the location and font style of this hidden engine number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 (edited) The parts books just say "shims used as necessary"! I had wooden shims between the cowl and chassis on my KCL and apparently this is original. But under "Flat faced cowl and chassis" in my 1935 Model K truck parts book it just says shims as necessary. So first I would highly reccommend you take LOTS of photos. I did BUT still wished I'd taken more. I would number all the shims and make a drawing of where they came from. DO NOT move anything until you have documented it. The black rubber mountings can be marked with those marks-a-lot pens that now come in silver. I would never have gotten this piece of junk back together again had I not had previous experience in how NOT to disassemble a vehicle for restoration. I can't emphasize enough to make a diary of what you find and where it was. You WILL forget. Trust me. And then you will spend hours experimenting to see where the part REALLY went. Been there,done that. Edited February 20, 2013 by DodgeKCL (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
36 D2 Coupe Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Excellent information - I haven't taken the body off the frame yet but I do have some flat belting I got off a wagon lot at a farm sale years ago. It's a bit worn - likely used to run a threshing machine - but there's lots there to cut up for body mounts. Haven't looked at it for a while so I'm not sure about thickness but 1/4" seems about right. Could possibly share some if you are desperate but you can likely get some in better condition closer to home for a very small $$. KCL - thanks for reinforcing the need to document EVERYTHING. My mind leaks a lot these days! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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