rlcokc Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Attempting to get my 36 Special running. Had motor remanufactured some time ago and finally trying to get vehicle running. Had problems getting 6 volt system to turn motor over fast enough to get it to start. Bypassed electrical and hooked 12 volt battery directly to starter and can now get engine running with extra turning power. Now when I try to turn over with just my 6 volt starting system can't get fast enough turnover to get it fire. The battery cables are big(recall 2 ought) so that should not be the problem. Will try new battery but don't think that is problem. Generator may not be charging fast enough and will check that. Any other suggestions/secrets that I'm not thinking about. My mechanic skills certainly limited so any help would be appreciated. Reply here or can send email to cookr@oge.com. Thanlks in advanceRod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 (edited) Hi,You may be using up a lot of juice from your battery just by cranking so many turns to get fuel to the carbuertor. The more you crank, the hotter the starter gets and the slower it turns. Also, the battery gets run down from excess cranking. Have you installed an electric pump to prime the engine when strarting?A starter's speed depends a WHOLE LOT on the gap between the armature and the field windings. So let me ask:1. Did you have the starter remanufactured, and if so, did they replace both of the bushings in it? Worn bushings can affect the above-mentioned gap or cause binding.2. If rebuilt, were the field windings and armature tested? A dead or shorted winding will prevent proper speed.3. If rebuilt, was the commutator part of the armature dressed and cleaned for best-possible contact with the brushes?4. If rebuilt, were the starter motor brushes replaced?5. The field coils can be shimmed a couple of thousandths to run closer to the armature. This requires good bushings.Starting issues are common on flat head Cadillacs of the era, so if all else fails, you can go where I had to go with my similarly-misbehaving Cadillac-LaSalle. I installed an electric fuel pump to beat the vapor lock issues that Cadillac V-8's have, and I built and mounted a battery tray to hold a 12-volt battery whose sole purpose is to crank the starter. It's isolated from the rest of the car's 6 volt circuit, and I charge it on occasion over the driving season. Not authentic, but since my LaSalle is a driver, not a show car, it's functionality outweighs its lack of originality.Please keep us advised on the forum as to what happens with your starting problem.--Tom Edited June 25, 2012 by trp3141592 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 your Buick started fine when it was new so if you go over the starting system and restore it to like new condition it should start properly. One caveat would be that your modern engine rebuild might be to closer (tighter). tolerances and may drag a bit more until it is broken in. I would spend my money on repair rather than modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grant Magrath Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 I think you'll be surprised the difference a new battery can make. Battery leads need to be nice and tight as well, and all the grounds good. If you're just starting the car and let it idle, the battery might not be charging. As Tom says, it takes a fair bit of winding if the fuel has drained back from the carb. We find it easier to tow start cars that haven't been started for a while. They're good after that initial start. With the Dodge, you just blow in the tank and force the fuel down the line!CheersGrant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Rod,I'm with Grant. The issue w/ my '40 Buick was an old battery and a bad ground connection @ the block. I cleaned both terminals @ the Batt and @ the block and starter, and things livened up considerably.Since mine is a weekend driver too, I installed a 6 volt elec pump back @ the gas tank on a toggle switch under the dash, and a clear glass filter @ the carb inlet.I usually lift the drivers side hood, flip the elect pump on, watch the glass bowl fill and start her by pulling on the throttle rod. Make sure she's in Neutral !!!!! Once running smooth, shut off the elect pump, and the mechanical does fine.Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlcokc Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 Thanks for suggestions and I'll see what happens. Will share with my mechanic and see what we can do. Don't want 12 volt battery unless just have to. Any more insight please let me know. Thanks againRod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critterpainter Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Drive the car to break the engine in and then re-evaluate. If you are afraid of it not starting when you stop, then arrange to park on top of hills I'll bet after a couple hundred miles of driving it the starts will be easier.Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
groselle Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 When I got the engine rebuilt on my '36 Special it came back very tight. The first 10 or so times starting I had to pull it with my truck. We couldn't even push start it. Eventually it has loosened up and starts easily. So before you go to a big expense to find a solution, I'd run it alot and see if it doesn't loosen up.Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 DON'T start it and allow it to idle for long periods. The break in process works best when RPM's are not constant. IMO.The worst thing you can do is get it running and walk away while it idles for 30 minutes or so, IMO.Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 (edited) Like they say, "if you don't drive them, you might as well collect clocks"Mike in Colorado Edited June 28, 2012 by FLYER15015 spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
startergenrebuilder Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 If you explore all other options and still have trouble, you can get high torque windings installed in you starter. I've done this countless times for customers. It gives you better than original performance while maintaining the original starter and electrical system. let me know if i can help you in any way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlcokc Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 help me out--understand high torque would cause more rpm for starter,engine but how is it accomplished. I have extra starter and if it would help would be willing to ship and have it converted. What is cost and turnaround time? I assume it would look like photo? Thanks for the response and info. Can also contact me at rlcokc@aol.com. ThanksdRod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
startergenrebuilder Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Rod,I will send you an email with pricing. As for what is done, I will explain here in case others are curious. The main component that is altered to affect the torque is the field coils. I have high torque versions in stock to replace the original. These coils differ from the originals by changing the guage of wire and amount of turns per coil. Anyone with other questions can feel free to contact me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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