bhambulldog Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Bernie,I too use neutral at stop lights for increased fan speed. Another thing I do is use low gear for slow traffic .I replaced the 7psi rad cap with a 13psi cap. (13psi is the AC job spec cap)I've added "water wetter" (a motorcycle coolant) in the place of water in the coolant mix. Mine will heat up on an up hill grade, but not to the point of losing coolant. Then it cools down on the down hill leg,... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Bernie,I too use neutral at stop lights for increased fan speed. Another thing I do is use low gear for slow traffic .I replaced the 7psi rad cap with a 13psi cap. (13psi is the AC job spec cap)I've added "water wetter" (a motorcycle coolant) in the place of water in the coolant mix. Mine will heat up on an up hill grade, but not to the point of losing coolant. Then it cools down on the down hill leg,...All of the above, plus added under dash gauge that reads the real temperature. The stock gauge is pegged out on HOT at 200* which leads to worry and white knuckles. With the above setup it should go to 250* before boiling over. On my nailheads there will be increased detonation at 230* due to higher cylinder head temps.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 I like that heavy duty gen that old tank has, it would be an interesting period solution to the issue. The Powermaster looks like a nice modern one. I have a switched electric fan on the front of the rad in my '56 Roadmaster for hot days in slow traffic, and it helps cool the rad well. I also have a modern type heavy duty core on the original tanks, and with this set up I never have had it overheat. Even here in Toronto we get many 90+ days in the summer, though 100 is uncommon, so mine is not as stressed as some folks in the South would be. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 All of the above, plus added under dash gauge that reads the real temperature. The stock gauge is pegged out on HOT at 200* which leads to worry and white knuckles. With the above setup it should go to 250* before boiling over. On my nailheads there will be increased detonation at 230* due to higher cylinder head temps.WillieI have that on my Ford truck. You're right, it gives piece of mind to see a number, rather than "C" "N" "H"I should make that addition to the Buick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 (edited) I like that heavy duty gen that old tank has, it would be an interesting period solution to the issue. ..... KeithThe reason I have not put it to use is...you need a compatible voltage/current regulator. You would still just get 30 amps with the stock regulator, and that sucker is much heavier than the stock generator. Latest cars before alternators were used had 45 amp...and I am too cheap to buy one just for an experiment I have an ugly ol' spare alternator for my 76 Olds, but I don't want to modify the generator mount just for an experiment either. Those that do the conversion and get it to work with the carb switch...please post how you did it!Willie Edited March 30, 2014 by old-tank ++ (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Watch your amp gauge after the install of the more powerful generator. You might see it peg when the fan comes on. And that will be the new normal. The D & C indicators will be for the old maximums.Now the anecdote; I was called in to check a problem with a 20/25 Rolls-Royce that pegged to discharge whenever the brake pedal was pushed. "Others" had concluded a major short. As the visiting mechanic, I went to the location of the car alone and saw the gauge activity. I started tracing the wires through the chassis conduits and into the coachbuilders junction box finding no problems. Under the dash, under the car, in the trunk, floor board out, just all over the place with a meter. After about 3 hours a friend stopped in. I asked him to step on the brake while I watched. The back of the car lit up like a Christmas tree!The owner had added six extra lights to the rear for protection. I removed one of the bulbs and checked its Ohmic vale. Then I used Ohm's Law to calculate the current draw, and times 6. As I remember it was about 15 or 16 amps total. The original 1933 generator was designed for 15 amps, the amp gauge had the appropriate range. The added brake lights consumed the maximum output of the original generator, momentarily. The car had no problem. Moments like that keep giving me reminders that it was good to pay attention in class.If anyone has access to a copy of the May-June 1996 Flying Lady Magazine there is a picture of me with black hair doing more electrical magic on page 5189.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Minispdrcr Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Well I have a friend giving me an alternator. He used to be a mechanic and I will figure it all out and post results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 A plug for PowerGEN PowerMaster. They figured it outHere's PowerGen's diagram sent to me. Thanks to Jack Jenkinswow it's very small. maybe some can blow it up. I tried editing but I had no luckFYI, Power-Gen doesn't do this ^^^ anymore.I guess after installng the one I just bought, I'll have to add a new carb or fuel injection so I can justify the push button start on the wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Good to know Mike! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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