30 Chrysler Chassis Color

[Bill Harmatuk]

Education is cheap.

Ignorance is expensive.

I am trying to restore my 1930 Chrysler CJ-6 to the best of my ability and to the full extent of my savings account. Most everything, (everything), will be correct for the car.

I know the chassis, brackets, cross members etc are black but are they flat, semi gloss or gloss black.

Thanks in advance.

Bill H

[keiser31]

I would go with a semi gloss. A good one to use is at the John Deere dealership called "Blitz Black". Looks great and lasts a long time. Think about how people leave their tractors out all of the time. That stuff works well.

[trimacar]

Well, I don't know anything for a fact, but here's an educated guess based on a brief Internet search.

In the late 1930's, Chrysler showcased (at the Worlds Fair) a new chassis treatment that was very high gloss.

If that was a new development, then the chassises (what the heck is the plural of chassis?) prior to that were NOT gloss black.

So, that leaves flat or semi-gloss.

Intuition makes me think that no early 30's car had flat paint anywhere, so my vote is for semi-gloss. Remember, too, this was a production car, and finish on a chassis would not be high priority down an assembly line.

Hope you find someone who knows for sure, but that's my guess!

[Bill Harmatuk]

Thanks for all the replies, so far.

I have a lot of small chassis parts that are ready for primer and paint.

(Should be another thread), BUT, If Rust-oleum primer and top coat is put on right, (not a rattle can), every thing I have read and researched says that the paint is as good as any, as long as it stays out of excessive direct sunlight and away from brake fluid.

They sell Rust-oleum in flat, semi gloss and of course high gloss. I am thinking going with semi gloss with/on every thing chassis related including the bumper bars and brackets.

The exterior will be the usual non etching, epoxy primer, 2K sealer, and some kind of top coat. Enamel, lacquer, etc. Every thing will be PPG because I have been using Ospho, (correctly).

(Another thread) I'm open for someone to pick a color for me. I am stuck on an all black body but I'm on the fence between black and a color. Too many maroon and green cars, out there, from what I've seen. Black just looks right, for the body. There are only 2 small places on the body that need skimming with filler, so black should work great.

And I say this won't be a 100 point car. Its going to be a driver.

Thanks

Bill Harmatuk

[jcmiller]

Here is some paint info from the Imperial site that may be useful.

http://www.imperialclub.com/Yr/1930/Paint/page02.gif

Edited January 5, 2012 by jcmiller
To add link. (see edit history)

[Tim Wolfe]

send me your email address and I'll send you pictures of our 1930 model 70, body is packard ivory w/ marine blue fenders & trim. In a sales book it said that the body could be painted a special color for a price ( I have a copy of the book ) The ivory paint is what was used for pin stripe. timandjuliawolfe1@roadrunner.com

[Bill Harmatuk]

Thanks Tim

I don"t mind giving out my E-Mail adress. My wife and I are Realtors.

I found the color today for the car.

All I did was "Google" .... Paint colors for a "1930 Chrysler CJ-6" and it went in the back door of place I couldn't acess going in the front door. A few clicks and I found Nut Pine Brown in PPG.

Thanks

harmatukbill@gmail.com

[pre1939chrysler]

Bill

Are you still looking fot the shock and did you get the pictures of the shock and ptice. A reply of yes or no would be appreciated.

Jay astheime@ptd.net

[Guest martylum]

Bill-I just reviewed my Chrysler Historical photos of a 29 Desoto chassis and it appears the chassis was painted a semi-gloss black color. I think the chassis got a final paint after the brake lines and exhaust system were installed as both also seem to be painted the semi-gloss black.

I generally use a catalyzed enamel with flattening agent added for durability and dirt shedding.

Some black painted body parts are in the photo and definitely have a much blacker shinier look than the chassis frame rails although the frame rails have a nicer look than I would have expected.

These photos were taken during the production process so would probably be representative of the way things were done.

My 30 Desoto roadster has frame rails painted in full gloss acrylic enamel. Looks great but I'm sure it's more than original quality. Did that because the frame was a distinctly separate item from all chassis components-kind of went overboard. Yes the axles got the same treatment.

These factory photos, which answer a lot of questions, are available from Chrysler Historical.

Once you crossed the line and became concerned about the gloss level on the chassis you got into the show quality realm Bill.

Marty Lum

1930 Desoto roadster and 33 Chrysler CQ

[impacsys]

i am restoring my 26 and am having the frame and other part powder coated shinny black.

[trimacar]

I just finished a large industrial project for the company I work for, and the people at the Plant insisted on powder coating many columns and platforms.

During the course of the installation, the powder coating was scratched here and there. It's impossible to fix, so you have to daub a little paint on it to try to match the powder coating. Never matches, and now it looks awful.

I believe the same thing would happen to a chassis on a car, coating gets chipped and you can't repair.

I know a lot of people think powder coating is great, but I'm not one of them. I believe it's only good for a piece of metal that's NEVER going to see wear or chips....

[Bill Harmatuk]

I'm not a fan of powder coating, either. Good for some things but my chassis is still in one piece and in great condition.

A good degreasing, pressure washing and detailing, X 2, is what I plan to do before a coat of semi gloss black. More time will be taken on external parts such as bumper brackets / braces and bars and bolts.

Bill H