Guest Lasse Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Spent a couple of hours stripping her down, and found some not so nice scenes around the rear window frame. Looks like my hopes of being able to do this without welding just disappeared. The worst damage has been caused by some idiot who has squirted ordinary toilet-grade silicone in there, apparently in a futile attempt to block the water. The main questions: Where do I find the necessary reveal molding clips for both the rear window & windshield? I found these, but can´t make out which is the correct clip:http://www.glasswarepro.com/2197291-item-C_R__LAURENCE-SC3339---+CRL+GM+Rubberless.aspx?sgd=344d330d309d319d319d319Window Reveal Moulding Clip - GMSo info on good sources (who ship to Europe) are welcome.Also, all tips and tricks regarding removing & re-installing the windshield & rear window are most welcome. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob J Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 I am also in the process of removing my rear window and repairing rust damage. This is a common problem on these cars. Best way to remove the rear window without cracking it, is to get a steel guitar string from a local music supply, or a very thin aircraft cable from your local hardware store. Thread one end of the string/cable through the window. then, attach each end to a wood dowel, or block which you can hold in your hand. Then with a helper (while one of you is in the car, and the other outside) work the string around the window, breaking the seal. Do this slowly, and evenly. Once the entire seal is broke, you can then carefully lift out the rear window.I also am looking for a source for the reveal clips, as I need some new ones as well, so I'll be watching this thread as well.Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 A good source for these kinds of clips and other fasteners if Mr. G's USA. Type it in your browser for the web address.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 They also have nylon screw in type moulding clips available too - not sure of a supplier, but the screws replace the metal 'T' studs that usually break off from exposure to corrosion. You simply drill a small pilot hole for the self tapping stainless screws. The nylon clips are also not as prone to rusting like the bare steel clips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrlforfun Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 OK Lasse: I had similar rust on mine. The body shop guy purchased a replacement piece from a GM A body rear window, which is readily available, and sectioned it to fit. It came out OK. Mitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Luchene Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 I got clips that matched mine perfectly from Restoration Specialties out of PA. Their web address is Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc.. I had a couple of differnt style clips and took a photo and emailed them with measurements. They were extremely helpful! 814-467-9842. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lasse Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Still looking for a good source for the clips. By the way, are they the same clips in both windshield & rear window? Haven´t got the mouldings off my windshield yet...Could these do the trick? Different than the originals though?Old Buick Parts - CARS. Inc.I couldn´t find a correct one from the Mr G´s catalog, any insight on that?Mr. G's Enterprises - Fasteners Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1963 Riviera Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Hi All,Lasse, I feel your pain. I am in the middle of treating the rust around my Front and Rear Windows. I have sourced the moulding clips from Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc.., I found the best way to attack the rust was with a drill attachment with BRASS bristles. I will seal the holes with a METAL PUTTY, then coat with PRIMER, then coat with RUST KILL. Removing the windows was beyond may and paid a specialist $AUS 256.00 per window including sealing. I have posted some photos of the progress , GLAD to answer any questions.Thank as Always Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1963 Riviera Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 MORE PHOTOS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lasse Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Nick, looks (sadly) very familiar. I had a friend weld some steel strips in the nastiest places, my experiences with metal putty are not that glamorous. Of course, the climate you are in is a whole lot more gentle than mine, so I think you´ll do fine. I also put some "rust-stop" there, plus a primer.You might want to strip the interior a bit more also, to see what kind of damage there is. The water that clearly has come in has to go somewhere, and propably has sat there quite a while. Look at the pics I posted a few months ago and you´ll know what I mean! Here´s a pic what it looks like now, haven´t put the window on yet.Stay strong brother! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitewatersky Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 ahhhhh all looks familiar ! I'm yet to tackle my FRONT window. back window and parcel shelf removal showed some nastiness, but all good now (after a few months since fixing it).that pic of your windscreen's top sill leaves me worried about how mine will look.plenty of crappy clear silicone on mine too, Lasse.... ("toilet-grade" ! ! ! LOVE IT !)I received my new carpet and rubber seals so I gotta get back into renovation mode soon.one thing I really hafta do is remove and re-fit my front windshield (it's leaking thanks to crappy sealing, so I don't drive in the rain!). I won't be doing it myself, but I am contemplating removing the dash pad to see how much the water has damaged the firewall area.from the experience you just went thru, Will i see much if I just remove the dash pad?I dunno about removing the dash/instruments/glove box etc in total - that'd be a total can of worms, I'd imagine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Check for a previous post on how to remove just the dash. Four screws are all that hold it in place.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitewatersky Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 (edited) thanks Ed. I'll have a look for that. It'll be a good starting place to see how big a job I have ahead of me once the windscreen is out.... hopefully it's all beautiful under there.... we'll see.....ahhh. yeah, how dumb... I even posted on the thread....:http://forums.aaca.org/f177/64-buick-riviera-dash-pad-removal-306073.html Edited February 27, 2012 by whitewatersky add the link (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1963 Riviera Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Great Job Lasse !Thanks for the advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest carlbraun Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 thanks Ed. I'll have a look for that. It'll be a good starting place to see how big a job I have ahead of me once the windscreen is out.... hopefully it's all beautiful under there.... we'll see.....ahhh. yeah, how dumb... I even posted on the thread....:http://forums.aaca.org/f177/64-buick-riviera-dash-pad-removal-306073.htmlWWSAs you know I am in the process of getting my Riviera ready for paint. Its down to the body shell and is ready to head to the resto shop where they will be pulling the dash assembly and finalizing the paint removal around the windshield frame. A few things have happened that pertain to this thread. They are:- The "professional" that I hired was a real jack ass and claimed that he couldnt remove the windshield without braking it...and he refused to consider the piano wire cutting method mentioned here. He broke it. My date code correct windshield is shot and it almost seemed like he did it on purpose just so he could say..."see...told u so". Did I mention he was an A$$? Anyway, my car is super clean under the front and rear windows but i am using a pencil sandblaster to clean out these metal channels and the trim channels for the trunk area. In seeing pics of your car, I think you'll be fine but address the situation soon.- Regarding the dash, I plan on taking my dash pad, rear window package tray and my door panels to Just Dashes in Van Nuys, CA. (near to where they still street race in LA...I've heard stories;). Just Dashes reapirs some of the pieces with a vacuum process that is remarkable. They did my 69 GTO and it came back perfect. They have a can do attitude and i hope to talk with them again the week to get an estimate on the items i want refurbished. I'll post their responses and approx $$$ for the services but I am assuming the price will be high but the quality would be the best. More to follow.- I'll be posting some pics of my car soon so you can get an feel for where the car is at.Cheers Mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Carl,The rear package shelf in your Riviera is molded and pressed cardboard. If it has any water damage, it may be beyond repair. You might take a look for the ad in the Riview for the guy in NV who makes a fiberglass reproduction. This would be a better base from which to work, and it will be impervious to any kind of damage from the elements.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lasse Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Words of wisdom from Ed. My package shelf was partly decomposed & moldy. Still, I'm trying to pump life into it with hard cardboard, new vinyl and a bucket of glue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob J Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 WWSAs you know I am in the process of getting my Riviera ready for paint. Its down to the body shell and is ready to head to the resto shop where they will be pulling the dash assembly and finalizing the paint removal around the windshield frame. A few things have happened that pertain to this thread. They are:- The "professional" that I hired was a real jack ass and claimed that he couldnt remove the windshield without braking it...and he refused to consider the piano wire cutting method mentioned here. He broke it. My date code correct windshield is shot and it almost seemed like he did it on purpose just so he could say..."see...told u so". Did I mention he was an A$$? Anyway, my car is super clean under the front and rear windows but i am using a pencil sandblaster to clean out these metal channels and the trim channels for the trunk area. In seeing pics of your car, I think you'll be fine but address the situation soon.Cheers MateThat's such BS Carl. Sorry to hear they broke your windshield. I took my windshield out by myself with no help. I took my time, used some thin aircraft cable, and it came out without too much difficulty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob J Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Speaking of the package tray, how about the one that Clark's makes? I believe it comes all wrapped in your vinyl of choice, and ready to install. Does anyone have one of theirs? Curious as to the quality. I too, will be needing a package tray when that time comes, which is a way's away. Right now for me, it's chassis time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Luchene Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Rob,I purchased the package tray from Clark's and like everything else I have purchased from them I am imporessed with the quality and fit.Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob J Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Thanks Ron. Looks like Clark's is going to get a great deal of coin from me. That Fawn interior is going to cost.:eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lasse Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I´m almost through with my window restoration, but I´ve got one (maybe silly) question: Do I install the new molding clips on the rearwindow/windshield frame before or after the glass is glued on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharknose1 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I would put them in before the glass is installed. Just be careful when installing glass. Sometimes when there has been a metal repair the studs are gone and you will have to use screws and screw them in. Can't do that if glass is already installed. There are also replacement pins that have a phillips head and screw in only leaving the stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musmat Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Can you guys who have taken out your rear (or front) windows chime in: what did you do after you cleaned it out? Mine's not rusted badly at all really and I'm thinking just rust stop + primer + paint & lacquer. But last night I started wondering about all the little grooves and edges and wondered if I should solder/lead the edges first? Plus what did you do in terms of preventing future water entrapment at the bottom edge? Opinions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Wire wheel as much as possible, rust neutralizer, All-Metal or similar bondo to fill voids, block sand flat/smooth, prime and paint. If urethane sealer is used it is more forgiving for an uneven surface......but unless you are a pro its more difficult to get the glass at the right height so the stainless trim fits flush. If the original round ribbon sealer is used the surface prep is more critical as it is not as forgiving. When using ribbon sealer, always go along the outer edge and paddle in silicone sealer to fill and gaps between sealer and pinch weld and sealer and glass. It also helps to go along the inside bead with a putty knife and push the ribbon sealer back as to help it seal on the glass and pinch weld. At least on the 66-67s these pinch welds were not perfect from the factory which is probably one reason they all seemed to leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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