Problem getting reverse on dynaflow

[Guest daidock]

Hi. Following on from my other thread, the linkage all seems OK. I'm still having problems with the trans not going into reverse. The selector lever moves there OK but there's no 'feeling' that it's engaged and it stays in 'Low'. Fluid is fresh and up to level. Is there anything else an 'amateur' can check or are we talking transmission out time? If that's the case I'll have the joy of trying to find someone familiar with the Dynaflow here in the UK!

[Guest daidock]

PS. I've not long had the fluid changed. If the wrong grade of fluid has been used, would that cause this type of problem. Trans is working great apart from this. Thanks. Dave

[Jim Cannon]

Dave-

I read both of your posts related to this.

The first thing you need to do is to check the transmission linkage adjustment. See Section 5-12© on page 5-33 of the shop manual and see Figure 5-29 a few pages later. Although I doubt that this is your problem, you need to do this first.

What fluid type was used when you refilled, do you know?

When you put the selector into the Low position instead of Drive, does the transmission seem to engage properly?

Read all of sections 5-9 and 5-10 for troubleshooting procedures.

[Guest daidock]

Cheers Jim. I had a look at the linkage as best I could and it seemed OK but have booked the car in at the garage to have them check it properly. The fluid was Exol meeting Dexron 2 spec so should be OK? It does engage low correctly. Lever moves to R fine but it doesn't engage unless you move it in and out of r a few times. It stays in low. It feels as if the lever isn't moving the rods enough, if that makes sense? It's an intermittent fault but does seem to me to be getting worse. I fear it could be something serious, especially as there's little chance of finding anyone here who is experienced with the Dynaflow.Looking at the book, could it be the servo? I hope so, as that appears to be accessible with the trans in the car. Would a rev brake band needing adjustment cause intermittent engagement problems or would it just slip? Incidentally, whilst researching this I came across a thread you were involved in re adjusting the bands with the trans in the car. Did you ever find out whether this was necessary and possible? many thanks. Dave

[CheezeMan]

Dave,

I'm having similar trouble, but not nearly to the extent you describe. Mine sometimes does not engage in R unless I swing the shifter quickly to the end of the range, making sure to hit the back of the plate with a ping. Some day when I get too bothered by this, I'll try to take the top plate off the console and see if the swing of the shifter will move a bit further to engage better.

Anyone have another opinion suggestion?

Thanks.

[Jim Cannon]

The shop manual says, in the sections I refer to, that the FIRST thing to do with a car that the owner reports transmission problems on is to check the linkage. They give the procedure.

With the selector in Reverse, when it does not seem to be engaging, try running the engine RPM up and see if it suddenly grabs. (Keep left foot on brake!) Do not move or touch selector once you put it in Reverse. If RPM seems to make it engage, my money is on an internal leak, like a servo.

[gungeey]

There's plastic bushings in the joints of the linkage rods that are often broken or missing. then there's excessive play. I cut brass ones a lathe to replace the old if needed..Steve

[Jim Cannon]

There's plastic bushings in the joints of the linkage rods that are often broken or missing. then there's excessive play. I cut brass ones a lathe to replace the old if needed..Steve

I agree. That's the first place I'd look.

[Guest daidock]

Hi. I'm getting my hopes up that it is the linkage! I've just taken her out and done what Chuck does. If I pull the lever back forcefully, almost flicking it into the metal trim, it goes into reverse. When I had a look at the rods the other day, I couldn't see very well (that's an understatement!) so will leave that to the garage on Monday. When it does engage it does so nice and smooth so I've got my fingers crossed.....and a few other things too.......Incidentally I've been told of a TH400 trans (condition isn't known so would need rebuild) that has the correct bolt pattern for my Riv. Is this a worthwhile conversion considering the TH400 is apparently a lot easier to get fixed over here? I recall reading that it's not a straightforward job at all. Even if this problem turns out OK I'm kind of tempted to get my hands on it for future use if it's a reasonable price.

[RivNut]

Dave,

For the cost and materials involved, I'd stay with the dynaflow. The swap to a TH400 (Buick refered to it as an ST400) takes quite a bit of alterations. First you'd want to know if the ST400 is from a '64 or from a '65/'66. The latter has the variable pitch torque converter (commonly called a switch pitch.) The dynaflow engine uses a different crank hub. You'd need to remove the present hub and install an adapter. The flexplates are different therefore the starters are different. The transmission lengths are different therefore the driveshafts are different lengths. The dynaflow's kickdown is activated mechanically, the ST400's (both types) are activated electronically therefore you need a different carburetor, switches, and linkage for the kickdown / switch pitch. You'll need a different shifter therefore (if it's the '65/'66) you'll need the '65 console because of it's larger shifter gate. The switch picth feature is engaged at full throttle AND at a complete stop (less torque against the transmisson means there's less creep at idle) therefore you'll need to incorporate a switch that is disengaged when the brake pedal is released.

Unless the transmissoin comes with a complete donor car, it's probably not worth it unless you want to do some serious racing.

Ed

[Guest daidock]

Strewth! Thanks Ed. I'll give that a miss then. I'd be better off learning how to fix a Dynaflow myself! If the linkage is worn I'll send for the bushing kit you mentioned on my original thread. This forum is so essential to owners like myself. The knowledge, particularly of you and Jim, is amazing to me. thanks again. Dave.

[tim63riv]

Dave and Guys,

I have a low miles Riv that engages reverse just fine, the higher miles car has to be shwon a little more force to engage reverse. The difference is in the wear on the shift linkage. Because of the design of the linkage, it is not very tolerant of sloppiness and wil inhibit the selection of reverse if worn excessively. My money is on worn linkage, and that is something that you might be able to repair for very little expense. I've welded up worn pivot rods and ground them back down to the proper size on other cars with good results. AS far as bushing material goes, I've had good luck at my local hardware store, but I'm not sure what you would have as an alternative in the UK.

Good luck,

Tim

[Guest daidock]

Thanks Tim. We'll see what the garage says tomorrow but I too think it's the linkage. Cheers. Dave

[Jim Cannon]

I was looking through the '63 Buick Dealer Service Bulletins today and ran across the illustration in link below that discusses transmission linkage adjustment.

1963 Riv Service Bull Fig 7 - Shifter Adjustment.pdf

It is the same figure that is in the Shop Manual, except they have added comments about where to lubricate before and after tightening the adjusting nut. This was published after the shop manual was printed.

{begin unabashed advertizing}

I have Buick Dealer Service Bulletins for each year on CDs. Really good, high quality scans, saved as PDF files. The above file is an example. I did these originally for my own benefit, then decided to share, not to try to make a ton of money them. Everyone who has purchased a CD raves about the quality and good organization of the files.

Cost is $10 each for the 1963 or 1964 CDs; $12 for the 1965 CDs (because they require 2 CDs to hold all of the bulletins).

I also have the 1963 Master Chassis Parts Book scanned and on CD for $10. (Very helpful!)

Shipping is $5 for as many CDs will fit in a USPS small flat rate Priority Mail box (US only -- overseas shipping billed at actual cost). I only take PayPal.

E-mail or PM me if you want one or if you have any questions.

{end unabashed advertizing}

Good luck with your adjustments.

[Guest daidock]

Got reverse again! Bushings are worn. Garage has tweaked the linkage so all is working again. They'll fit the new bushings once here. Thanks again everyone.

[bepnewt]

Woohoo! Great to hear.

A shifter in the hand is worth 2 in the bushings. Errr, something like that.

-BEP

[Guest daidock]

Ha! And I'm putting an order in with Jim!

[Bobba6]

On 5/8/2011 at 3:45 PM, Jim Cannon said:

I was looking through the '63 Buick Dealer Service Bulletins today and ran across the illustration in link below that discusses transmission linkage adjustment.

1963 Riv Service Bull Fig 7 - Shifter Adjustment.pdf

It is the same figure that is in the Shop Manual, except they have added comments about where to lubricate before and after tightening the adjusting nut. This was published after the shop manual was printed.

{begin unabashed advertizing}

I have Buick Dealer Service Bulletins for each year on CDs. Really good, high quality scans, saved as PDF files. The above file is an example. I did these originally for my own benefit, then decided to share, not to try to make a ton of money them. Everyone who has purchased a CD raves about the quality and good organization of the files.

Cost is $10 each for the 1963 or 1964 CDs; $12 for the 1965 CDs (because they require 2 CDs to hold all of the bulletins).

I also have the 1963 Master Chassis Parts Book scanned and on CD for $10. (Very helpful!)

Shipping is $5 for as many CDs will fit in a USPS small flat rate Priority Mail box (US only -- overseas shipping billed at actual cost). I only take PayPal.

E-mail or PM me if you want one or if you have any questions.

{end unabashed advertizing}

Good luck with your adjustments.

Do you still do the CD'sfo Rivera?

[Jim Cannon]

3 hours ago, Bobba6 said:

Do you still do the CD'sfo Rivera?

Yes.  The Dealer Service Bulletins are $10 each for '63 and '64.  The '65s require 2 CDs, cost $12.

 

I also have the '63 Buick Master Parts Book on CD for $10.

 

Plus shipping is $10 for the entire package (up to 4 CDs).

 

If you don't like CDs, I can put them all on a small USB thumb drive (flash drive) for an extra $2.

 

Payment via PayPal to 63Rivvy (at) gmail (dot) com

 

Thanks!

[Craig Balzer]

Please see PM