Anti freeze in Antique Cars

[AlanM]

I drained the anti freeze today to fix a leak and since it has been in the car (1930) about 10 years I'm thinking I should put new anti-freeze in it. I've been using a 50-50 mix of the standard green/yellow type. I recall reading or hearing about some issues with new anti freeze but do not remember what or where I read it. I apologize if this subject has been discussed before, but could not find anything on a search. The radiatior and cooling system had been cleaned before I put it in before and it looks clear now.

Can anyone shed some light on the issue? Thanks in advance.

[Guest Kingoftheroad]

I stick with the tried & true green coolant 50/50 mix.

I think your right, seems to me I've heard something about negative things resulting from using the other color coolant, think it has something to do with how or what its made from.. Can't remember the details..

[Guest]

Yes, stick with the 50/50 mix. The pre mix does not use distilled water in the coolent. Always use distilled water when you use concentrate. Minerals, we don't need! Plus you pay about the same for half the amount.

Don

[Guest stude8]

You want to look at is the Buick General forum post #283322 from June 5, 2010 response #18. This is what was part of that duscussion:

Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should an "Extended Life" antifreeze, which utilizes Organic Additive Technology (OAT, H-OAT, or N-OAT) as one of its chemicals, ever be used in our cars over 10 years old. It attacks the gaskets and gasket cements in our cars, causing major leaks and forcing ultra-expensive repairs. The "Silver Ghost Association" Rolls Royce people have documented massive cooling system failures apparently caused by this anti-freeze product.

Antifreeze that can be used safely in our cars uses older-fashioned Inorganic Additive Technology (IAT) additive.

You cannot tell by the color of the antifreeze if it's safe to use. Also, the product may be labelled "Safe for Older Cars"--meaning 10 years old at most. Brands to be AVOIDED are all Prestone lines and Zerex's G-05 in the Gold-color container. Avoid any "extended-life" antifreeze. None of us wants to pull and rebuild our cars' engines.

Stude8

[Owen_Dyneto]

There was a very good article on this subject in one of the recent publications to the automotive repair trade. Stude8's summary is right on target - whether it's ethylene or propylene glycol based aside, the primary differences are in the corrosion inhibitor packages of additives with newer anti-freeze packages aimed primarily at aluminum alloy engine construction.

[Guest Steve Hughes]

Disclosure: I am an Evans distrubuter.

You should consider using Evans waterless coolant. Clean and flush the system and make sure you have all of the leaks fixed. Then add the Evans coolant. It is used full strength and no water is in the system. It is expensive at $35.00 per gallon, but it is a lifetime coolant (provided you have no leaks) and with a 375° boiling point you will have no boilovers.

[rons49]

This morning I read the ingedients on a container of PEAK. It claims extended life but does not say anything about OAT, just glycol and poly glycol. So how can we insure that we are using the least harmful coolant, if nothing on the container states it. Also, what the future hold? It is not likley that consumers will chose a product that needs replacing every 2 years vs every five. Therefore, the manufacturers will discontinue a less popular product. So when the old, safe stuff is gone... than what?

[1937-44]

IMHO it seems Peak has recognized the problem for the old car hobby. They are still making the old type green antifreeze. I just purchased some recently at a Kmart store. It does not say Extended Life, but rather Peak Green and goes on to say it is the original formula and safe for older automobiles.

[Guest 59 Blue Bomber]

This is interesting, because my father-in-law had two gallons of "old" Prestone anti-freeze hidden on the shelf in the garage (I'm guessing is was 15+ years old). I used it in my '59 Pontiac that has the original motor and radiator. I noticed it ran a lot cooler. Three months later, I had to drain it to change the timing chain. For some reason or another, the coolant mix got dumped, (I was going to re-use it) so I had to buy the un-diluted Zerex G-50.

It sure seemed to run hotter than before and stirred up crap in the motor, that I had not had a problem with in the past. It subsequenlty plugged the radiator, requiring a full flush. I did put water wetter in when I finally refilled the system and seems to be fine now, but the "old" coolant I found...I'm sure has long been discontinued.

[jpage]

If your car is a 1930 I would recommend only using water in the radiator. Modern antifreeze is design for use in pressurized systems so it will not foam over. I tried using antifreeze in my Model A with poor results. I had too much overflow from the antifreeze foaming up. Water is easier to use and replace if you should have a boil over and it does not have adverse effects on paint. I would always drain the radiator and block for winter. No problems for 16 years!

[Guest Gooser]

What about this stuff? Valvoline/1 gal. MaxLife antifreeze and coolant (719009) | Antifreeze | AutoZone.com_

[1937-44]

Read post 4 above. I would avoid any extended life as well as any maxlife antifreeze. If you want to shop Autozone I would suggest you check out there Green Conventional. Carl

[Guest Gooser]

... If you want to shop Autozone ... Carl

Thanks Carl, I should have paid better attention.

And Autozone just happens to be three blocks from my house.

--Stephen

[Owen_Dyneto]

The conventional (green) permanent anti-freeze is also still made by PEAK.

[Guest Al Brass]

If your car is a 1930 I would recommend only using water in the radiator. Modern antifreeze is design for use in pressurized systems so it will not foam over. I tried using antifreeze in my Model A with poor results. I had too much overflow from the antifreeze foaming up. Water is easier to use and replace if you should have a boil over and it does not have adverse effects on paint. I would always drain the radiator and block for winter. No problems for 16 years!

Anti-freeze is more properly called coolant these days and does many things other than frost protection. It raises the boiling point and therefore keeps coolant against localized cylinder block hot spots inside the system. It should also prevent corrosion and sludging. It should always be mixed to recommendations or it can make an engine run hot. It should not foam and long life options should be avoided (use glycol based products).

The widespread use of coolant started in the sixties here and many problems we had experienced in the motortrade earlier, like cavitation and electrolysis, simply faded away.

Al

[edinmass]

In a warm climate with no danger of freezing just run well water with cutting oil in it. No foam, lubrication for the water pump, and if you push water or overheat for some reason, it washes off with a garden hose. 35 years and still no problems. Try it. Ed

[Guest Al Brass]

Hi Ed,

While cutting oil will possibly prevent rusting, it won't do as good when it comes to hot spots within the block. The problem is with these areas is you can't tell where they are or if in fact they exist, from the outside. At the end of the day, I accep it is a personal choice but I am suggesting there is a good reason to use coolant.

Al

[nickelroadster]

Another thing to remember is that the anti corrosion properties of antifreeze are only good for two years. Your coolant should be replaced on a two year basis.

[Terry Wiegand]

I THINK NICKELROADSTER IS RIGHT IN REGARD TO THE ANTI CORROSION PROPERTIES IN THE NEWER MODERN VEHICLES. THERE ARE ALUMINUM BLOCKS AND RADIATOR CORES THAT NEED THIS PROTECTION. THERE WAS AN INTERESTING ARTICLE IN OUR 1915/1918 BUICK McLAUGHLIN NEWSLETTER ABOUT TWO YEARS AGO THAT DEALT WITH THIS EXTENDED LIFE COOLANT IN OUR 'OLD' VEHICLES. stude8 HIT IT RIGHT ON THE HEAD. THIS NEW STUFF WILL ATTACK THE SOLDER IN THE OLD RADIATORS OVER TIME. I ALWAYS RUN THE ZEREX 50/50 PRE-MIX ORIGINAL FORMULA IN MY OLD BUICKS. 50/50 IS GOOD TO -32 DEGREES FARENHEIT AND IF IT GETS THAT COLD IN KANSAS WE ARE ALL IN TROUBLE. POUR IT IN STRAIGHT FROM THE BOTTLE - YOU'RE GOOD TO GO. THE ENGINE RUNS A LITTLE COOLER. AND IT GIVES LUBRICATION PROTECTION FOR THE EXTERNAL MOUNTED WATER PUMPS. YEARS AGO, MY DAD USED TO USE A PRODUCT CALLED RUST MASTER IN HIS JOHN DEERE TWO CYLINDER TRACTORS. THEY HAD THERMO-SYPHON COOLING SYSTEMS AND ALL HE EVER USED WAS DISTILLED WATER AND A CAN OF RUST MASTER COOLING SYSTEM RUST INHIBITOR. THINGS STAYED AS CLEAN AS A WHISTLE. HE ALWAYS USED THE STUFF IN THE 1916 D-45 THAT I HAVE NOW. WHEN I PULLED THE RADIATOR TO HAVE IF FLUSHED DURING THE VALVETRAIN RESTORATION, THE GUY AT THE LOCAL RADIATOR SHOP TOLD ME THAT FOR BEING ALMOST 100 YEARS OLD, THIS RADIATOR WAS AS NEW INSIDE. HE SAID THE WATER JUST FELL THROUGH IT. NOT ONE SIGN OF A LEAK ANYWHERE. I WILL CONTINUE TO RUN THE 50/50 PRE-MIX FOR ALL THE REASONS THAT HAVE BEEN GIVEN. I'M JUST TOO OLD AND SET IN MY WAYS TO START CHANGING NOW. TERRY WIEGAND DOO DAH AMERICA