Guest MidTNDawg Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Often I say from the pulpit, "What you don't know may hurt you." Today that proved to be the case with my DA. First day I have had to actually drive it, and I did. What did I not know? The front bushing in the water pump is gone, not there, fini. The first 25 miles seemed flawless. Then without warning the fan blades dug into the radiator, almost all the way through in one place. So more questions:Process to remove radiator? Looks like remove fan blades, remove thermostat housing to get top hose off, remove top hose, remove bottom hose (any secrets here?), remove water pump, remove radiator braces and hood, remove bolts/screws from radiator perimeter, lift radiator out. What am I missing?Now more: Water pump rebuild, can I do with a rebuild kit or do I need to have someone do it? Honey comb radiator, any available? Feel sure it is not repairable although a local man says if it can be repaired he can do it. I will take it to him when out but he will have a lot to seal off if it can be.What else do I need to know?Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Patience. A machine shop can put in a new bushing. Take off the radiator shell along with the radiator. If your guy is good your best bet is to repair, because a new honeycomb is big bucks. My buddy gets his from England. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Remove hood, rods, hose,take the shroud and rad out as one piece by unbolting from the crossmember underneath. Remove waterpump and send out to be rebuilt, there are no kits avail that I know of and your shaft is prob. scored so bad it needs to be replaced. Try and think of this as just another lesson andm make sure you get to know the car before you drive it, go over all the other lube points and fill them, make sure its safe to drive before you drive. Honeycomb as mentioned is big bucks to replace, you could always have a finned rad. put in its place but of course that would be a shame to have to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 A warning, there is a pipe in between the bottom hose and the pump, these are often times rusty and seconds away from crumbling, do yourself a favor and be gentle with it, nearly impossible to find although having another made isnt too big a hassle I guess. While you have the rad. out flush out the engine, stick your garden hose in the top and watch the crust come out the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MidTNDawg Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 NCT and 1930, thanks. So on the one hand removal is less involved than I thought. I do suspect there is more to be done than just the front bushing to the pump so a rebuild is probably in order. Suggestions of where? Maybe email or PM me. Unfortunately I think I would have missed the pump problem because in thinking further there had to be something in there at the start of the day which came out. And I had oiled through 2 holes per the manual. Seems the car had sat for a couple of years before I got it. Usually not good for machinery. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 And I had oiled through 2 holes per the manual Good for you, glad to hear it so there is no blame to be had and everything will work out Ok. Romars does the waterpumps. I do not know of any others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MidTNDawg Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 After getting over the disappointment my wife and I talked last night about what had happened. She reminded me I had said, "What was that? And what is this noise?" Unfortunately, I continued to drive for probably another 7-8 miles before the fan got into the radiator. Now I am reasonably sure the first noise was the bushing and the continuing noise was the fan shaft wobbling around. As already noted the car apparently was neither driven nor even started for the last 2-3 years as far as I can determine. Well, the radiator is out, the water pump is off, and I am looking forward to getting it going again.Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idrjoe_sandiego Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 (edited) Doug, sorry to hear about your radiator. The water pump bearing theory is completely plausible, however do not underestimate the inherent weakness in the DA fan blades. This problem was brought to my attention by DB Club DA Tech Adviser Harry Reding. I first I heard about this was after I had my car on its maiden tour (500 miles driven around Gettysburg) following a 5-year restoration project. When I arrived back in San Diego, the first thing I did was check my fan blades for the notorious cracks. Sure enough, there they were. See photos. Thankfully, I was able to correct the problem before disaster struck. I would advise you to check these blades carefully. The cracks can be rather subtle. Edited March 12, 2011 by idrjoe_sandiego (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 HOLY CRACKS, Doc!! You sure did save yourself a lot of heartache by checking that fan. I now wonder if the '31 DH6 blades are prone to the same malady!? I had better go check them out. I have never had a blade problem, but you can bet I will be monitoring the situation whenever I get the chance. Thanks for the heads up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940_Buick Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 If the radiator is not repairable, a cheaper method is to remove the tanks from the core, then VERY carefully cut a thin slice of the honeycomb pattern from the front of the core. Then have the tanks mounted on a modern core and the honeycomb "false front" that you've just made, fastened in front of the modern core.I've seen it done and the only way you can tell the difference is by looking at the core from inside the engine compartment. The modern core is so efficient, the honeycomb in front won't cause a problem. The trick is to take that thin slice of the original core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idrjoe_sandiego Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Great idea, so what's the trick to slicing it thin? Laser, water jet, butter knife? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Great idea, so what's the trick to slicing it thin? Laser, water jet, butter knife?Bandsaw? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Wire EDM, but it would have to be a big machine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 MidTNDawg...I've got my feelers out for a radiator for you.....John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 They sell the fake honey comb fronts, I know I should be more specific on who they are but I do not remember, I have only seen THEM do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwollam Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Fans have been known to crack on lots of different makes of cars. It is just metal fatigue. I had a 60's car that made a weird noise that sounded like a waterpump bearing going bad. Pulled the fan belt off, pump spun quietly. When wiggling the fan blade to check for loose bearing the blade moved a little too much. Wiggle it enough and it made the popping-cracking noise! Had a crack at the base of 1 blade, about to fly off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MidTNDawg Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 MidTNDawg...I've got my feelers out for a radiator for you.....JohnJohn, thank you as always. A couple of others do as well. This will turn out ok, but I admit a little frustration crept in for a while.And Buick and others thanks for the suggestions. I really do not want to lose the honey comb lookDoug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bohlig Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Doug: sorry to hear of your misfortune. A couple of questions for those who have examined blades and repaired:1. Can the blades be removed without taking out the radiator? It appears on my '28 Std 6 that the blade mechanism is bolted to the pully and could be unbolted without taking anything else apart?2. So, if you find cracks how do you fix? Weld I guess but how to balance blade package if a bunch of weld on one blade and no weld on blade 180 degrees opposite of the weighted welded blade?Maybe some of you who have repaired would comment more specifically on repair, balance issue.ThanksPAul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Cannot repair the blades properly Paul for all the reasons you mentioned above and also I believe they are spring steel which should never be welded. On DA it is pretty tight to get out that blade without at least undoing top braces and at the very least rocking rad. forward, even then it is tight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MidTNDawg Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Well, I was able to maneuver the blades and get them out before I loosened the radiator, but it is tight. The fan actually looks to be new and despite close examination including some pressure on each blade I found no cracks in them.Paul, my package came today. Thanks as I will still need it. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Backyardmechanic Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Dough,Reading all your post with interest,I remember you stateing that the pully moved slow.Could it be that the pin was out of the pully and it was slipping on the shaft.When you install that new fan belt tighten the belt so the fan mover nomal, then when you started to drive the car the pullyand fan moved forward into the rad.? Just a thought.Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MidTNDawg Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Vern, I do not think this is the case, but having read your posts I would defer to your knowledge and experience. At this time, it appears I will be sending the pump for rebuild so you will know for sure. After installing the new fanbelt, the fan ran true on the axis and did not appear to move foward at all. However, heeding the advice on this forum I did not move up in line with the fan so it may have been. I had my wife rev the engine so I could observe the movement. The bushing was there at that time but gone when the fan hit the radiator and the fan was pulled out of true by the belt. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest elmo39 Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 try www.replicore . its in New Zealand , and they specialise in honey comb replacements for second world war aircraft and early cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bohlig Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 I think the complete link for those in the US is:www.replicore.co.nz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MidTNDawg Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Thanks, Paul. I found them and already sent a message to them. You are correct on the complete address. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest elmo39 Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 you are correct , sorry about that i must have been having a senior moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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