Fred Rawling Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I am trying to remove the tortion balancer. With the torque wrench set at 150 pounds, I can not get the nut to move. I tried moving it both clock wise and counter clock wise.Does anyone have some ideas that may help.Fred Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Silverghost Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 (edited) Some of these stinkers are really tight !I find that an air or electric impact wrench will usually hammer & vibrate them off~~~ If you don't have access to an impact wrench try using a breaker bar & socket with a longer pipe over it to get extra leverage.It's a large bolt so you won't have to worry too much about breaking it !150# lbs is just not enough torque force to loosen them after all these years !You might also try heating the head of the big center bolt with a plumber's Bernz-o-matic propane torch a few times also.This will break any rust & Locktite threadlocker bond ~~~If any ! Do not burn or over heat the harmonic balancer's inner-center rubber ! Good Luck ! Edited February 10, 2011 by Silverghost (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 what is a tortion balancer ???, i know what a harmonic balancer is. 99% of all threads are going to be righthand threads, pontiac and other GM makes used to have lefthand threads on left side wheel lugs. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Rawling Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Thanks for the answere.I did mean harmonic balancer.I do have access to an electric impact wrench. I will try that.Thanks for confirming that they are right hand threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Thanks for the answere.I did mean harmonic balancer.I do have access to an electric impact wrench. I will try that.Thanks for confirming that they are right hand threads.Hi Fred, they are tough to get loose. I've broken an extension on a 1/2 drive with a long breaker bar (had a pipe on the end!) Then when I used an air impact it came right off. My electric would probably not get it. Let us know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 (I wasn't aware that GM had some vehicles with LH lug threads on the LH side of the vehicle as Chrysler did--interesting.) NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 63 Wildcats did too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Rawling Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 Success.I tried an electric impact wrench and a long pipe on an L socket handle. Both did not work.Finally it was suggested that I brace the breaker bar and tap the starter.I cut a 4 x 8 to length from the ground to the center of the nut. I put the socket on the L handle. I did not want to use the breaker bar for fear of breaking it at the swivel poing.The second tap broke it loose. I found that the penetrating oil had reached the threads and it still took a lot of force to break the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadmaster75 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 I had the same issue on my 73 455 motor.Ended up buying a BIG 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and 6 point socket ANDa 2 foot pipe extension. Leaned into it SLOWLY. It finally budged and off it came.I believe the shop manual says 200 or 220 ft. lbs. to tighten!Guess they didn't think too many of us would be removing them very often!mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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