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Fuel door & Trunk release not working?


Guest fcr

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No 12 volts at switches in back of glove box but glove box light works.

Fuse # 20 is O.K.. Manual refers to fuse # 17 but there is no fuse # 17 ???

Not sure where 12 volts comes from for those 2 switches.

Thanks Frank

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Without looking in the manual, the buttons to operate the fuel door or truck lid could be compleating the circut by sending the GROUND ? Have you tried to ground these terminals with a circut tester, the tester that has a relay breaker that opens when looking for a short.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

If you have a 90 or 91 and don't have a fuse in socket 17, then that's your problem. put a 20 amp fuse in there and you should be good to go.

If have an 88 or 89 you need to check the body fuse #2.

In either case the power comes in to the switches on the orange wires which should read 12 volts at all times. When activated the 12 volts goes out the black wires to operate the applicable relay which are always grounded.

It would be nice if you mentioned what year you have so we can give you the exact info you need.

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He has a '90. I looked at his first post in which he indicated what year he had.

My general rule of thumb is that those who come to the site looking for help should have the year of their car in their signature. [Note both my forum name and signature, I need much help!] Those that typically help others don't need to identify their year [although that would be nice as well].

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Guest Greg Ross

There's potentially another layer to this, at least on my '88 if the car wass in gear, ie; not in "park" the trunk and fuel door releases didn't work. I believe it was associated with a separate shifter position cable that was the lock-out. After going to the 5-Spd. it was no longer hooked up. I fed 12v to the two switches directly and overcame the issue.

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Maybe you need to branch out into other years a bit, Dave.. ;)

IMHO the best year for a Reatta is the '89. It is everything the design staff put into a Reatta except for a convertable top [which is not desireable to me]. However I am tempted by a '91 Red/Gray not far from me that is from Texas.

But 2 cars is all I can justify owning...

[My wife has her own car]

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IMHO the best year for a Reatta is the '89. It is everything the design staff put into a Reatta except for a convertable top [which is not desireable to me]. However I am tempted by a '91 Red/Gray not far from me that is from Texas.

But 2 cars is all I can justify owning...

[My wife has her own car]

Ah, then it's obvious you need to:

1. find more ways to justify another car (I.E. more yard work/house work etc. for the lady)

2. find another lady. ;) Just Kidding.. ;):D

Another option is you could build yourself a nice garage, and have space upstairs for her to store stuff (such as paper towels, TP, and other items that might be on sale at Wally Mart. ;) )

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Staying on topic [good enough for you, you junior forum monitor?] Now that we established that he probably is missing the fuse, I built a new garage 5 years ago, but the problem is I built it too small. So I have's what I have and that alls that I have [kinda like Popeye lol]

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Also highjacking this thread, be careful of what you wish; everything's relative.

When we moved to this 'new' property 32 years ago, we had a 30'x 60' garage. PLENTY of space. Now I can't even move around in there, and working on a car is tight.

They're right, the more space you have, the more junk you'll collect...

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We'll see how that works out for me Barney...just got the 40' by 60' shop completed (finally...overhead door installer took his time) and all that is in there right now is the '88 Reatta. It sure looks empty...of course, I do have stuff I can put in there, so the empty look won't last long.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

To get back on topic, Greg, you are correct sir. The 88 is different in this area as it didn't have keyless entry. Not having access to an 88 FSM, I'm not sure how the power was routed from the fuse to the switches to provide an inhibit capability when the car was in gear.

When keyless entry was installed in 89, the module was designed with an inhibit circuit that was fed via the Transaxle Position Switch that prevented the module from triggering its functions while the car was in gear.

The glove box switches were then hard wired to the fuse, so they will work even when your driving down the road just in case you want to do some "in drive refueling". :eek: Cuts down the time wasted on all those pit stops when your in a hurry to get cross country. ;) Cannonball anyone?

To go back off topic, Padgett, you were mentioning at one point during your garage modifications that you were looking at a scissors lift to add to your arsenal. Did you ever pull the trigger on that? The older I get the less I look forward to hacking up car all the time.

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Not yet, the major problem is my 6300 lb RV when most American hobby lifts have a 6000 lb limit. Thought I had a line on a 7,000 lb "portable" scissors lift but have not been able to firm up an order. HEI Product 2

Since most of my activities involve removing wheels, a four-post did not make sense and there is enough room between the scissors to drop a RWD tranny or a Fiero gas tank. It is also possible to remove a "power module" by lifting the car off it.

BTW I have (somewhere) the instructions on how to wire a 89-91 RKE into an 88. Only difference is the first push opens both doors.

Edited by padgett (see edit history)
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Guest ReattaFan1

I have problems with my fuel door too. I can here the solenoid engaging as I push the fuel door release, but the door is sticking somehow. Ive gotta fix it but thank goodness there is a emergency manual pull leaver from the trunk.

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