Guest stude8 Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 A friend is rebuilding an early Stromberg updraft carb (believed to be model OX-2? will confirm later). It has a cylindrical flloat that the needle assy passes through the center of. The aged metal body *1922 (possibly plated brass material) has many age cracks that resealing will be a major job. The outer diameter cracks would be possible to repair with lead solder but access to the inside diameter will be a very problematic and results would not be very reliable we think.Has anyone done such a repair successfully? If so how did you do it? Solder or some chemical sealer? We fear exposure to Ethanol Gas mixture will disolve any epoxy or other chemical sealer over time. Best answer would be a new reproduction part if any are known to be available.Attached is an image ILLUSTRATION #80, on a service book page of the type of float we are dealing with.Any suggestions are welcomed. Oh, the car it is for is a 1922 Studebaker Big Six.Stude8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W_Higgins Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I've worked on several of these and never seen one with cracks, though that's what old stamped or spun brass is prone to do. If there are no new ones on the market, I'd just suggest finding another good used one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldford Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Most of the early Strombergs have the same cylindrical float. You should be able to find a good used one in a parts carburetor. Pick up some old strombergs for parts and check them out...Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 I have no idea of the clearance between the needle and the I.D. of the inner float tube. If there is enough clearance you could solder a thin wall brass tube inside the the present one. That along with soldering the outer cracks would be a good fix. Thin wall brass tubing is sold in most good hobby shops........Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friartuck Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 The brass is probably getting porous and replacements are likely to be just as bad. Get or make a new one.This source offers cylindrical floats for the Schebler which may fit:Schebler Model S Carburetor Float - 1 3/4 x 1 1/4Spinning the two halves and soldering them should be doable. Be careful of replacements that the final float level is adjusted correctly, taking into account weight increases, etc if either a new float is created or a coating applied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Friar Tuck/Chris please check your pm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbking Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 First, the Schebler float may not be used in the Stromberg. The Schebler float pictured is not complete. Schebler used a long U-shaped float arm that was soldered to the pictured float pontoon. Stromberg used a rocker assembly on the top, and the float valve passed through the float.Second, there is insufficient clearance between the fuel valve and the float to insert a tube. The inner tubes were thicker than the shell and rarely leak.It has been our experience that pinholes, or holes in the existing solder may be repaired. Vertical "fatigue" cracks may not.I would suggest substitution of another used float (test it in hot water).The same float is used in ALL of the O series PASSENGER Strombergs (O, OA, OD, OF, OE, OS. OX) of all sizes. The OT used a different float (the T is for truck). The OA-1 was sold primarily as an aftermarket replacement. New old stock OA-1 carbs show up often. Since the only ORIGINAL use of the OA-1 is the Columbia, these carbs are normally sold at reasonable prices.The same float is also used in SOME (NOT ALL) of the M series Strombergs.Jon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stude8 Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Thank you all for the suggestions at this point. Two complications influence the repair of this carburetor. 1 it is 400 miles from where I live so I don't have direct access to evaluate the conditions. 2 it is now said to be a Ball & Ball carb and I am waiting for the exact model description to proceed with.I have had another suggestion of using a method to drill an inlet hole .080" or so and an exit hole the same size 180 degrees opposite to provide for "inflating" the float interior with an efforvescent chemical foam that will fill the cavity which after curing will solidify into an air bubble saturated foam unaffected by any fractures in the float metal exterior. We would then have a float with a permanent interior that prevents entry of fuel leakage from any fractures. I am told this process is used in devices other than automotive floats.I will track down pertinent details and post them here when in hand.Stude8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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