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263 exhaust stud nut keeps loosening...


Aaron65

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This feels like one of those threads where I'll get no response, but here goes... :) I eliminated exhaust manifold gaskets on my 263 because I was sick of replacing them yearly...now I have a strange problem...the #8 exhaust bracket/stud/nut combo keeps loosening up after a few miles driven. I tighten it to 30 or so ft./lbs., and sure enough, after several miles I can hear the slight ticking of an exhaust leak. When I return, the thing's loosened up to 15-20 ft./lbs. I've tried cleaning the threads on the stud, a new nut, flipping the bracket around, loctite, a star washer...soooo, any ideas? Anyone have this problem? Could I try a jamb nut of any sort?

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No french locks on the straight 8...I wonder if the heat would cause a lock washer to lose it's temper, but I guess I could try one...I'm about ready to try a valve stud nut...I'm not too worried about correctness; I just drive it around. :)

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Your nuts are not loosening, the studs are stretching from the heat, but not shrinking again. You really need to get the mating surfaces straight and flat instead of using torque to bend into place. If this is accomplished, 10 fp using brass nuts will do the trick.

Willie

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The manifold has been surfaced Willie...and John, the nut's not bottomed. The shop manual calls for 25-30 ft./lbs on the straight 8, so I'm not overtorquing them. And the strange thing is is that it didn't happen when I used the gaskets. And it's only this one stud...the rest stay perfectly tight always. The rear stud on a straight 8 is much longer than the rest, and uses a block to hold the last intake runner and exhaust manifold runner in place. It's kind of a weird setup, unlike the rest of the studs.

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Guest Silverghost

You might try to squeeze the nut slightly in a vice to make it slightly out of round & into a sort of self-locking type of nut.

A good hardware store has self-locking nuts that are peened in one spot of one or two nut flats with a center punch.

The Nylock locking nuts will not work for heat reasons.

This is also why French Locking tabs were used on exhaust nuts !

A second Jam nut might also work if you have enough stud length to work with ?

Try cutting a nut in half lengthwise to make a jam nut !

I still like exhaust gaskets !

They help with long uneaven manifolds.

The gasket itself will only compress where needed.

Copper Clad or woven asbestos or glass fabric with graphite exhaust gaskets are the best .

The unreinforced paper style blow-out all the time !

Edited by Silverghost (see edit history)
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The reason I tried to eliminate the gaskets was that that big old manifold moves around so much that it moved the gaskets, either shifting them and then burning them out, or wrinkling them up. The copper ones REALLY wrinkled toward the front of the engine--so much that the number 3 exhaust port was partially plugged by the gasket. I used a standard (non-nylon) lock nut today, and it seems to work, but I've also discovered a slight leak at the #6/7 area of the manifold. I'm wondering if I'm ever going to beat this, but to be fair, it's never been totally sealed from manifold to head since I've owned it (5 years), including 2 exhaust manifolds (1 milled), headwork (to be fair, I'm not sure if they checked the plane of the exhaust ports at the machine shop), and numerous gasket sets...I wish they would have split that manifold from the factory!

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Well, I think I solved the #8 loosening problem by using a locknut (not the kind with nylon insert), but there's a definite minor leak between #6 and #7. Ugh. I might just leave it. At this point, the idea of having a leak is bothering me more than the leak itself...it's barely audible...I just hate when things don't work right!

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