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My next project? 1921 Packard Coupe.


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At last the hood is all assembled and trial fitted. I will have to adjust the location of the bottom of the radiator to adjust the gaps down either front edge. This will permit the front hood latches to be adjusted for length. Otherwise it all seems to have gone back fairly much into place.

Perhaps someone can tell me what should go over the spigot for the crank handle where it projects from under the centre of the base of the radiator? That is other than a Campbell's soup tin.

Bernie J.

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Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
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Guest cben09

Crank stub cover,,,,MMMmmm,,,

About 2,",Dia,,,,,3" long,,black,,small radius on end

If the cap is 3" long,,,guess radius at 2-3" long,,

Soft spring on inside to push against crank stub,,

Two slots on edge ,, shaped as letter J,,,

Push in and rotate to the right to engage 2 pins,in J slots,,located top and bottom,,,

The 2 pins in the c/case MAY not be exactly 180d,,,

my cap did not like the position at half turn off,,

When you are using the crank,,where to put the cap??

It will have a spot of oil on it,,so not to put on the frame horn,,or on sandy drive,,

and loose it,,,

I suggest drilling a small 1/4" x 20 hole in the crank,,and a mating dimple in the shaft

to tighten thumb screw when using the crank,,When crank comes off the end may hit headlamp

or JAW..,,,,,.Either may cause tears

Measuring for the cap OD,,,, not sure,, ,020 --,030 clearance,,

Test for pin location w/a piece of dixie paper cup,,

WhattdiddIleave out??

Good luck,,,Ben

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Thank you Ben

I can always rely on you to come up with some useful information. I will try fabrication something along the lines you suggest. looking at lots of photographs tell me that there was some sort of cap but difficult to see exactly what or how it was located.

Bernie J.

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Guest cben09

If there are any questions feel free to ask,,,I would foreward a sketch,,,,,if I could

figgure how to post it,,,as I dont have scanner,,

Let me know if more info is needed,,,Ben

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If there are any questions feel free to ask,,,I would foreward a sketch,,,,,if I could

figgure how to post it,,,as I dont have scanner,,

Let me know if more info is needed,,,Ben

Take the sketch outside and take a photo of it. Then post the photo.

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Guest cben09

My camera is missing the cord,,,so i'll get my neighbors wife's camera,,,maybee,,

My new comp' doesnt have a slot for my disk camera disk,,,now obsulete,,

gee how simple can a project get??? dont ans that,,,,Ben,,,haha

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Hi Ben

Please do not get into a sweat. I have a lively imagination and can visualise what you have described. Failing that, while I now appreciate that a Campbell's soup can will be too large maybe a Heinze' Baby food container will just about do the job.

Bernie J.

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The words of the old song tell us "Little things mean a lot".

In the case of the Packard this can translate into a lot of time being spent on the little things, this time in particular the section of the latch that secures the headlight rim. The original diecast half of the hinged fastening had virtually crumbled away. The simple solution was to fabricate replacements. The two photographed below represent almost a full days work! I still have to make a second threaded section and nut and then have the lot nickel plated.

Bernie J.

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The saga of the headlamp rim latches continues. This afternoons task was to make the replacement for the missing other half. This has been accomplished without the aid of lathe, mill or other sophisticated machinery. Just an oxy- acetylene torch, an antiquated drill press, a hand held four inch angle grinder, a bench grinder and a hand file. Oh yes, and a 5/16 UNF bolt.....

The one with the file marks is the hand made replacement.

Bernie J.

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Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
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Bernie,

I just enjoyed catching up on the progress with the Packard over the last 4 weeks. In an earlier post the subject of air cleaners was raised and you mentioned my name. I have a copy of a letter from Packard to the dealers dated 15 August 1928 informing them that an air cleaner is being offerred as an after market product for models 426, 526, 626 343, 443 & 640. I have one on my 633 which obviously has the same engine as a 626. Its a complicated casting because it connects to the two air inlets. They were being repoduced by a Packard enthusiast in Victoria some years ago but he has told me that the patterns have been lost.

Also I have a crank hole cover on my 126 if you need details

As for you comments on our "Across Australia" it was a memorable event driving a 2 cylinder 100 year old Maxwell from Perth to Sydney. That's 4,000 kms or 2,600 miles for our non Australian readers. We covered it in 20 days, there were 37 cars and bikes at the start and most finished and most had lots of problems including us. We only had a mobile phone with Optus so comunication was almost non existant and it was one of the pleasures of the trip to be devoid of radio, TV, phone, computer etc. More information can be found on this web site <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> VETERAN CAR CLUB OF AUSTRALIA (N.S.W.) 2012 Expedition Home

David McCredie

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Not a lot to show for today's efforts. To obtain the correct gap at the leading edge of the hood sides I have to remove the packing that I so carefully placed between the base of the radiator and the chassis frame. This is approximately 1/4 inch thick and removing it will make all the difference.

Again "Little things mean a lot".

Bernie J.

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Another step forward, this afternoon I removed all four wheels and stripped the tires and tubes off. The wheels are now safe in the trunk of the Peugeot ready to go out to Dave's for painting.

Removing those big 600 x 23 tires single handed is quite physical, especially as they have been on the rims for some time (almost 50 years)....

Bernie J

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
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Hello West, Ben, Ian and Earl

Thank you for your good wishes.

Ian,

Not just for lunch but for four days next weekend on the VSCC Alpine Rally. Starts Friday 20th.

Over 80 pre 1940 cars entered about half from Victoria the rest from Sth Aust and NSW.

Bernie J.

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
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I have mentioned it before but one of the things that has caused something of a hiccup in this restoration is the lack of a steering wheel retaining nut. It seems to be impossible to buy a suitable tap (13/16 x 20 tpi) which makes making one difficult. The alternative is to remove the steering box and totally dismantle it in order to take the shaft with the male thread to have one made. Something that I would sooner avoid at this stage. Can any of the Packard owners/restorers assist.

Bernie J

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Guest cben09

MSC,,,,Formerly Manhattan Supply Co,,,[[google MSC ]]]

cust_service@mscdirect.com

1-800-645-7270

the old export line,,,516-349-7100 ext1225

The 3 taps in a set were listed in my old cat,

under heading special taps,,

,#,04847851 Listed as plug tap

All this from 1993 cat,,,

These people have always been good to do business with,,,

Hope this helps,,,let me know,,,Ben

Edited by cben09 (see edit history)
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Guest cben09

OOOps again,,

If the HOLE is 13/16,,,,the bolt will be larger,,

IF the bolt was 13/16 it would slide right through,,,Ben

P/S,,,,MSC is open real late weekdays,,,

check hours,,,see i told ya they were good people,,

AND

they were the first company i had contact with that had a friendly computer,,,back around 1968,,,,CB

Edited by cben09 (see edit history)
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Hi Ben

The drawing was sent to me by a friend of David McC. so I am unsure of it's accuracy. I don't have a lathe so I have to have any machining done "outside". These are just two of the many reasons why I would prefer to obtain a nut from someone who has dismantled a car. My friendly machine shop wants me to remove the steering box from the car and totally dismantle it so I can take them the shaft, then they MAY be able to make a nut for me. It is not feasible to obtain and modify a nut with a common thread ( 20 mm seems the closest undersize) and recut the thread on the shaft as the flange on the top of the original nut is larger than a standard nut.

Bernie J.

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
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Guest cben09

They show taps by 1/16,,,,from 9/16" all the way to 1 7/8" in the 20 tpi series

Price around $12,00 back in '93,,my old cat,,

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Guest Xprefix28truck

Bernie, Is everyone sure that it is 13/16-20 threads? The only thing that bothers me is the drawing that you posted. It shows a 13/16 hole. So if the drawing is correct and it does indead require a 13/16 hole, then 13/16- 20 threads will be too small. A 13/16-20 tapped hole requires a 49/64 (.7656) drilled hole. The only reason I am asking is because of the drawing.

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Hi Kent

I too am dubious about the drawing. That is why I am putting in so much effort to find an original replacement nut. Hopefully my South Australian friend can find his. Without the nut I cannot move on to fitting the quadrant and hand control levers

Bernie J.

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Guest Xprefix28truck
Bernie, Could you put calipers to the shaft and tell me the Diameter you get?

did you get a reading Bernie?

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Hi Kent

It is now certain that one or other of my two PACAust member Friends from South Australia will be able to supply me with an original nut.

The nearest as I can tell my rusty old calipers are reading 7/8 to the outside of the male thread.The "inside" reading on the castle nut that I have that will comfortably screw onto the shaft is 13/16. Providing one or other of my friends can find a spare nut it all becomes academic.

Bernie J.

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Guest Xprefix28truck

Bernie, Glad to hear that you should be able to get one from one of your friends. As I was looking at the chart the other night, I noticed that the 7/8-20 Tap drill size is just a shade over 13/16. So I was wondering if you didn't indead have 7/8-20 threads instead of 13/16-20. It sounds as though that is the case. If for some reason you cannot get one, let me know and I will make you one.

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Thank you Kent

I will keep your kind offer in mind should my Sth Aust friends fail to deliver. My next task is to do a drawing for the windscreen pillars as they still require some machining. and to finish off fitting the head lamp glasses and rims. One extra job is to run some wires etc for flashing turn indicators. Originally I had thought that I would not install them but as the car is Left hand drive and we in Australia drive on the left side of the road I think that from a safety point of view they should be fitted.

Bernie J

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Not a great deal to report. I did a drawing for the windscreen pillars and took them off to be machined yesterday morning. Cut out gaskets for the headlamp glasses but will probably not fit them until I have the latches nickel plated and fitted to the rims. Today I have to do a service on the Lagonda Rapier in readiness for this weekend's Alpine Rally. I need to look at the ratchet on the hand brake lever as it is prone to slip off.

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Speaking of the VSCC Alpine Rally this is quite a big event with cars from both New South Wales and Victoria. It is run over three days with another full days travel to return home from the finish. I have included the entry list. Note the difference between the "Tourists" and the "Competitors" the later being the people who take their motoring seriously! These are just the Victorian entries there is a similar sizes list of people and their cars coming from New South Wales. A total of around 100 cars. The smallest car the Singer Le Mans 989cc and the largest the Sunbeam 12 Litres.

Bernie J.

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Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
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Hello

Personal explanation time.

I may have appeared out spoken on another thread on this site.

While I would not claim to be a purist. I do have standards that I endeavour to adhere to.

It would be very easy to sneak in the odd POP rivet where no one would ever find it and to use Phillips head screws because that is all the corner hardware shop stocks. Most new cars sold in Australia use Metric thread fasteners so why not go with the flow.

Having accepted all those things then why spend countless hours sourcing parts and spend even more dollars reconditioning 80 and 90 year old engines and gearboxes. It sure would be much easier to slip in a good old Chevy V8 and an auto trans. The bonus there is that performance would be transformed, even more if I grafted a big GM Blower on top of the Chevy. As long as I kept the Hood (bonnet) closed no one would know. While I am at why not blow away that 90 year old body and slip on a sleek brand new copy of something exotic. That should WOW everyone. While I am at it I may as well get rid of those old springs. The Packard sure would ride a whole lot better if I slip a Jag rear end under her.

In all the spare time that I will now have, I think that I will have a go at whipping up a quick copy of the famous painting of the Sunflowers. If I write "Van Gogh" in squiggly little letters in one corner everyone who comes to our house will be amazed. Once I have finished the painting I might spend an hour or two at the old pianola knocking out a couple of Brahams or some other famous composers pieces. I can slip in a couple of "ad lib"bits of my own if the original gets too difficult. Everyone who hears them will be amazed and think that I am a remarkable musician. Just don't tell anyone.

So why do people like me go the extra mile to make things CORRECT, "as they were"

Why do we travel miles to find slotted head screws, search the planet to get the correct part, slave away for hours to make things "right".

WHO CARES???? Well for one I do.

Bernie J

oldcar.

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
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Guest Untame

I admire your dedication. I know from that Delahaye 135M chassis and drive train I restored that obsolete parts can be a real pill, and custom fabrication is possible, but not cheap.

Many years ago I had an older friend that won the ISCA class for his restored 1974 Pontiac Firebird. He stopped at nothing to make sure that every nut and bolt were the right colors. He even made sure that the manufacturers markings on his glass were exactly right. He told me that if I wanted a classic car to buy one from someone else who restored it right rather than restore it myself. He said it would cost half as much. He didn't have regrets, though, since the car had sentimental value to him.

I'd feel worried doing anything but trailering a car that cherry. I'd much rather own something that looks slightly worn, chipped, and scratched up. Something I could go out cruising in without worrying about dirt roads or bad weather.

My personal favorite automotive genre is early Ford hot rods. In particular, Model A cars built out the way the guys were doing them in the '30s and '40s -- using their imagination and spare parts on hand along with any dime they could scratch up. Real earthy and bare bones. Don Montgomery has written a definitive series of photo books documenting the history of the origins of hot rodding.

Everyone has their own style that appeals to them: street rod, resto mod, lead sled, rat rod, gasser, trad rod, kit car, etc... and original restoration. To each his own, and love to all.

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Sorry again! I am not the least interested in Hot Rods. I have been under the mistaken supposition that this section of the Forum was about Restorations (of original cars). I have two main interests out side my immediate family, 1. Driving (not trailering) my 1934 Lagonda Rapier and 2. Restoring to as near as possible to original condition what ever car is my current project. At present a 1923 Packard, Single Six, Series 1.

I have lost count of the number of cars that have passed through my hands previously but I can assure that when they left they were in far better condition than when I bought them.

Bernie J.

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