55 Century front suspension

[Mudbone]

I just purchased a complete front-end rebuild kit from Kanters. The problem I am having is the upper knuckle where you adjust the camber and caster. The two threaded ends are not on the same plane with each other. When tiring to turn the adjuster with the Allen end it locks up. I have even left both side nuts loose. It looks like they are made wrong. If you look at the pictures you can see one is off center. Then when I turn it a ½ turn it centers itself. (Of course the old stuff works fine) I was wondering if anyone else had this problem. I will call Kanter in the morning. Thanks Ken

[Bhigdog]

So, what was the outcome??????????????????

[Mudbone]

Kanter called me and said they checked several ones from off the shelf with a NOS upper A–arm. They all worked fine. I then spent 2 more hours tiring to get the ones I have to work. I tried them in both arms and they both lock up. One of my original ones is in good condition so I tried it on the other side and it works fine. I then tried the new center section with the old end nuts. It still did not work. I sent them back and asked to have a set they already tried. I will post a reply when I get the new ones. Thanks, Ken

[Mudbone]

I haven’t heard anything from Kanter yet but I did find another problem I missed before. The lower knuckle bearing is significantly different and may cause caster adjustment problems. The larger nut area does not allow room for an o-ring on one side and will not allow centering of the knuckle. It is shifted about .065” offset. (I also found it to be significant looser than the originals!) I added photos that show the deference’s. Am I being too picky? Or is this as good as it gets with after market parts?

Edited May 22, 2010 by Mudbone (see edit history)

[Bhigdog]

Most repro parts are a compromise fit. It's not unusual and actually common to have to massage the part to fit properly, or even fit at all. Some suppliers are better than others. Sometimes all the vendors get thier parts from the same maker so it makes no difference who you buy them from. The prevailing attitude among a lot of makers is "good enough". The part shown is most likely case hardened so it can't be machined in a lathe but you can easily grind the hex for more clearance. Test it with a file. If a file will cut the part it's soft and will quickly wear out.................Bob

[old-tank]

I had the same issues with the last one I did. One side could not be aligned so that is what bench grinders are for (bench grinders also make a lot of noise so all of the &*^%$#@)(*&^% is not heard).

Willie

[stealthbob]

I had the same issues with the last one I did. One side could not be aligned so that is what bench grinders are for (bench grinders also make a lot of noise so all of the &*^%$#@)(*&^% is not heard).

Willie

hehehehe...good one

[NTX5467]

Sometimes, the aftermarket items will not be exactly as the OEMs were. In the case of some front end alignment-related items, they intentionally change the way it fits together to compensate for "known issues" with the particular vehicle's front suspension and front frame section. In the case of some GM cars, even 1955 Chevys, some bushings are "offset" so as to compensate for the slight dimensional changes the front crossmembers were found to accrue, so they could be aligned "to spec". This seems to be one of those "little secrets" that you find out ONLY if you hang around with people who know about such things. You wouldn't think that crossmembers would "sag", but they apparently do.

A Bhigdog mentioned, there are a decreasing number of manufacturers of replacement parts, such that it might not matter who you get them from, in what brand name box, it's the same item inside. In some cases, there might be "material quality differences" which might be under the paint, but that can be debated.

Good luck on your project!

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

[Mudbone]

Thanks for all the replies. In this case my old ones are tighter than the new ones, so I will use them. I have not heard any more about the upper joint from them yet. I will keep you posted on the outcome. Ken

[Mudbone]

I received a new set of upper knuckle eccentric bushings today from Kanter. I tried them tonight and they work fine. As far as the lower knuckle bushing goes, he sent me a diagram in a file format I could not open. I hope to have it in a PDF format soon. He basically said to center it the best you can and you should still be able to adjust the caster from the upper one. If I do that there will be no room for a seal on the nut side. I will keep you up to date. Ken

[1956century]

Great information here.

[Mudbone]

I just thought I would share some information about the front-end parts. Kanter sent me an e-mail with an instruction sheet on how to install the lower knuckle kits. The instructions show the original style parts. They are not very good quality but I will post them anyway. I also attached a photo of the old and new. I will be using my old ones as they are tighter than the new ones. I will post some photos when I get it assembled. Ken

Edited June 6, 2010 by Mudbone (see edit history)

[old-tank]

Ken

As long as it is tight, go for it. On the first suspension I did 25 years ago, Kanter was the only source and were charging more than they do now. So I matched pins and bushings until tight, by matching the 'good' areas of both when assembled---will probably outlast me.

Willie

[Mudbone]

I guess we should be happy that they are being reproduced at all. I purchased an idler arm kit on e-bay a few years ago that is a NOS GM. It was still in the cardboard tube (Sealed) I installed it and it was looser that the original. So I will be using the original one there too.

[buick5563]

Ken,

I just went through this today. Same weird offset, which I hadn't looked at EVEN after reading this thread. DUH! I used my old upper with the new bushings. I am convinced it will be fine. Mine came from CARS, since I didn't want to buy them from Kanter after your experience.

Good thing I'm pretty, cause I sho ain't that bright.

[special55]

Hey guys,

I just responded to Mikes thread in "Me and My Buick"

I had this same exact issue. These parts are not hardened to the extent they cannot be machined. I had the hex part on mine turned down to match the thickness of the originals and it all went back together great.

Find a good macine shop, have them turn them down and you will have a much more positive suspension assembly experience.

Rich