Guest Dave Boyer Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 WOW!!! The primed frame looks amazing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 WOW, just WOW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 And WOW again! This is probably the most fascinating thread in the entire forum!!!Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Thank you to all! However, I'm not surprised from the reactions: when the frame was pictured in brass, it was looking artificial or unreal as everybody knows that frames are not made with brass. With a little paint on it, many ungainly details are gone and the illusion is much better. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 27, 2011 Author Share Posted August 27, 2011 By chance, I had a steering box to photograph and measure. This is again a complicated casting part; on top of the form, its function is adding some complexity. I had the good fortune to find in my remaining parts from an other age a worm and pinion which could be usable for that purpose. The distance between axles is indeed very near to the calculated distance; sometimes compromises are necessary.The input and output shafts are made with brass (what else?) but I'm using steel inserts into the "casting". This will prevent to get too much play in a short period of time: brass on brass is not the best, brass on steel is much better. Hardened steel on steel is the best, but we are dealing here with a static model!With my weak machine, I could manage to have less than .01 mm (.0004") play between the shafts and inserts; by necessity, there will be some play between the worm and pinion, otherwise I could not turn the steering wheel.The box is not yet ready: some details must be added as well as the valve body. The pictured screws on the side cover will be replaced with more realistic ones when the box is ready. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 You have less slop in your miniature box than I have in my real one.:mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 27, 2011 Author Share Posted August 27, 2011 You have less slop in your miniature box than I have in my real one.:mad:Maybe...Do you know that the '56-'58 Cadillac steering box are very similar? The steering from my Brougham is, for that vintage, very precise, much more than the ones from my two '56 Cads, even if the steering box is the same. There was a big change for '57 at Cadillac: ball joints for the front suspension, which explain why the Brougham is more agreable to steer than the other two. With a properly adjusted/restored steering box, you should have a much better behavior than you have now. The adjustment at the Pitman arm is one thing; you may need larger balls and other bushings. I see already your problem: to remove the steering box from a Continental is a major task; on the model it will be more easy to install as the steering shaft will be assembled with a screw to the worm shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Roger,Are those screws about the size of those in the corners of eyeglasses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 27, 2011 Author Share Posted August 27, 2011 Roger,Are those screws about the size of those in the corners of eyeglasses? Usually those screws are 1 mm. The side cover will be held with .8 mm screws (.03") and the end cover will get .6 mm screws (.024"). The car is American, but the screws are metric on my model! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev1955 Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Awesome, thanks for the update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 It's now ready. Of course, I still need to do the Pitman arm and the universal joint at the steering shaft. Later...I may have to reshape the LH exhaust manifold. Its outlet is very near from the steering gear's valve body; I will see for sure when I can put the engine on the frame. As the box is temporary installed, I can look for the idler arm and modify the frame. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 With the form for the idler arm at the outside rail, the frame is ready. There will be cosmetic improvements, but no welding anymore (unless I forgot something)!As I need to locate the engine on the frame, I will now continue with the transmission. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 I have only detected one flaw in your frame. In the lower left of this picture is a tubular frame member. On the 1:1 the passenger side is blocked off at both ends with a fitting in the center of the inboard cap. This chamber creates a vacuum cannister that serves the Treadle-Vac as a vacuum reserve for the power brakes. It is hooked to a spring-loaded check valve on the booster that charges the cannister with vacuum while the engine is running. If the engine were to stall the check valve closes, providing approximately three applications of power brakes before the reserve gives out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 This is correct, Barry. By the way, you asked already some time ago (months ago!) if I was aware of it. In the real car, the ends are probably closed with a welded plate; I will not do that on the model. It will be easier to me to turn a hollow cylinder and insert it at the correct place. For a long time, during the construction, I used these tubes as a guide to avoid too much distorsion.Anyway, thank you for your comments! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 As I had not right on hand the large stock needed to do the converter housing, I began with the transmission's extension. The main part is mostly done on the lathe, with some milling. As pictured below, the extension is practically finished, with the exception of holes for the rear mount and for the speedometer gear. I took a short cut: I id not a separate cover for the access hole to the governor; why? The answer is easy: the extension is well hidden by the frame; most of the work I did will not be visible.It's not quite the same with the converter housing: with a wide open hood, it can be seen. The people at Franklin Mint did spare here: there is just nothing after the engine on the Mark II model from this company, just the bottom is represented!The picture is showing that housing while the part is not finished: the lower part needs some heavy work; the housing for the starter motor is to be done too. I noticed from the pictures I have from a real housing that the above part is more rounded than the lower one; I did the entire form on the lathe, then with a good file, I did the correct shape for the upper part. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Roger, just saw this on Ebay. Thought you might like to read about it. An early model 1920's Buick 1/4 scale. ANTIQUE 1921 BUICK 1/4 SCALE MODEL CAR HAND BUILT ONE OF A KIND | eBay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 John, thank you for the link. Interesting vehicle! Who knows, maybe in 80 years my own models will be offered for sale... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Roger and all, thought you might enjoy this link.The City That Time Forgot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Thank you for the link John. However, it's not new to me, I saw those pictures in other forums. Anyway, interesting and certainly a lot of work behind each picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 1, 2011 Author Share Posted October 1, 2011 Well...I'm back from vacation; this is the reason there was no update. Today, I could complete the torque converter housing. Some holes are missing, as well as the sheet metal parts (the cover at the engine's side and the duct for cooling). This small part is the assembly of about 15 pieces!I assembled it to the engine, together with the starter motor. It seems that I did my home work well; I had just a small interference between the engine block and the starter motor.I will continue now with the transmission's case, another nice casting part! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 This time, I will try to show how many separate parts are needed to form a casting with just flat brass. I'm showing the beginning: the flange of the case which attach to the converter's housing soldered to the bottom of the transmission and another picture showing the case (or what is done) to the housing.Up to now, the case is done with 4 elements. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 The rear flange was added to the case. As it was done with 2 pieces to show the details, we are now at 6 pieces and it's not yet obvious that it will be a transmission's case. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 Some more parts added; it's more looking like a transmission than before...Now, it's time to decoration with the various raised castings. They will all be soft soldered. Parts count now: 10. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 7, 2011 Author Share Posted October 7, 2011 I "quickly" added 8 parts to what is already done. This way, the RH side of the transmission's case is ready. It will be better looking with a little paint, but, obviously, it's too early...Parts count now: 18.The Lh side is quite different and, less easy to do. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 Today, I finished the LH side of the case. With the addition of 5 pieces, the total count is now 23 for a total weight of 12 grams (.4 oz).The next task will be the oil pan for the transmission. Unfortunately, I forgot to measure the depth while measuring the transmission and my pictures are no good to evaluate that. I hope that somebody from the Mark II forum will help again! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 With the exception of a few details which will be added later, the transmission is basically finished. I even sprayed some primer on the main case as this part is really finished. The oil pan needs some cosmetic improvement as well as the oil refill tube; this part will be just inserted in the pan and fixed somewhere (I don't know yet where it is attached).The screws you can see are not all the definitive ones; I used what I had on hand.I will now do the front engine supports, assemble the transmission to the engine and drop the assembly on the frame. Maybe some rework will be needed; I don't know yet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Very nice. I might have to make a trip to Switzerland to see the finished product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 Very nice. I might have to make a trip to Switzerland to see the finished product.You are anytime welcome! However, to see the finished model you have to wait some years...If you cannot wait (!) 2 other models are ready, the '66 Toronado and the '63 Avanti. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 We are trying to plan a family vacation to Europe in the next few years. It is going to take a bit of money to get the whole gang over there and back so there is no rush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiliconS Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Thank you for the updates, Roger. Mounting the engine and transmission on the chassis will be an important milestone, I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 Thank you for the updates, Roger. Mounting the engine and transmission on the chassis will be an important milestone, I guess.You bet!And this happened this morning. As anticipated, there were some interference; the main one was between the exhaust collector and the steering gear. I have some pictures from the real car, but I cannot evaluate the distance between both elements. I tilted a bit the manifold (the flanges will no more correspond exactly with the ones from the block) and I lowered a bit the valve body. At the end, I have a gap of .5 mm (0.02").The other interference was between the oil pan and the second crossmember; a slight modification of the pan was the solution. As expected also, the alignment left/right and front/rear is not perfect as many tolerances are added up. Those imperfections will not be seen once the model is completed but I'm just unhappy that this happens...I will have to do a device to calculate exactly the distance between the top of the air cleaner and the top of the frame (which is called point zero). With a rough measurement, it seems that I will have a gap of .5 mm (again 0.02") between the air cleaner and the hood...Therefore, I must know exactly where I am to maybe modify some elements to get more clearance; 2 mm would be nice (0.08"). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 What great work. I can hardly wait for the first engine start. Just too realistic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 What great work. I can hardly wait for the first engine start. Just too realistic!Thank you John! First start: it seems that I forgot to make pistons, crankshaft and other small internal parts...For the moment, I'm fighting with the engine's height; it seems that the top of the air cleaner will be about 2 mm above the line of the hood. I will have to cheat with the body! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 '56 Mark II had an air cooling transmission. After the drive train was on the frame, I had to complete the transmission with those 2 sheet metal parts. I had enough pictures to understand the shape; anyway, I had to do 2 wood forms to shape the metal.As those parts are more or less ready, I cleaned them and gave a coat of primer.Right now, I don't know with what I will continue: A/C compressor and brackets for it plus generator or front suspension. You will know soon! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Wow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys77 Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 to QUOTE Barry Wolk; Wow! Double that by at least one million! :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Save that million "Wow" for later!I'm all the time surprised that when a little coat of paint is applied on parts there is more reaction from the viewers as when the parts are raw brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 That's because they look real! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 That's because they look real!That's the purpose! Again I forgot to place a quarter or a car key next to the assembly for the comparison... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys77 Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Roger, you can forget about painting anything! Raw or painted ~ it is still wow! I'd like to tackle a model myself but wouldn't know where to start .... "don't say the beginning, please!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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