1930 Chrysler 66 brakes, how do I adjust them?

[bifda]

I have recently bought a 1930 Chrysler 66 sedan and have been doing work on the brakes, none of them worked so I have cleaned and honed the cylinders, fitting new rubbers. I have had the brake shoes relined, etc. Now I have come to reassemble the brakes and can't work out how to adjust them. On the bottom of both shoes there is a cam adjuster and then 2/3rd's the way up there is a snail cam. How do you set the bottom adjuster in the right place? I have wooden wheels and no way of altering the cam when the wheel is fitted.

Anyone with knowledge or advice on these brakes it would be appreciated

Wayne Smith

[Bill Harmatuk]

I have a 30 CJ 6, so I'm waiting on a reply also.

I just sent my master cylinder and wheel cylinders off to be sleeved with brass and rebuilt.

There are a lot of Chrysler experts on here that will answer you.

Bill H

[bifda]

Lets hope so!!

I did look in an old book regarding all types of brakes and it stated that for the Chrysler you need a setting up tool, a bit like a brake drum but with openings so that you can then set the space between the shoe and the drum witha feeler gauge and then tighten the cams etc, then you remove the tool and fit the wheel with brake drum. However I have next to no chance of getting the tool and I wouldn't think there are many that have one so others must set their brakes up in a certain way. All I need is to know what that way is!

Wayne Smith

[keiser31]

I can try to help. They should be very similar to my 1931 Dodge Brothers brakes. If you can't read it, send my your email address and I will send these to you. The biggest problem is the lower cams. They should not be removed, but in case they are, there are ways to measure and get the right circumference on the brake shoes. Start with the lower adjustment on the cams and then the upper. It takes a while to get it right, but it will get there. John

keiser31@charter.net

Edited February 8, 2010 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[bifda]

John, that is spot on what I was looking for, thanks. I was going to try and make the special tool from an old 11" land rover brake drum I have kicking around but this sounds easier.

I will let you know how I get on

Thanks again

Wayne Smith

[keiser31]

As a brake mechanic, I can attest that these are difficult to adjust and I will be waiting to see how it turns out for you.

[Guest martylum]

Hi-My 30 Desoto brakes adjust pretty much the same way as my 55 Desoto brakes. The owners (1930) or shop(1955) manual shows a measuring tool with a cone shaped center part which fits over the tapered axle with a rod extending 90 degrees out to the brake linings with a shoe on it which rests on the brake shoe lining surface. The tool has minute adjustment for the center to lining surface distance based on the size of your drum's inside diameter. All very nice if you happen to have the handy Chrysler tool.

A caliper with 6" depth or length will do the job as well as can be done without the special tool using the insidse ddiaameter jaws on the caliper. Take the drum's inside diameter/2 and subtract 1/2 of the tapered axle's diameter at the measuring point. This distance(less than 6") should be a bit less (.02 or so )than 1/2 the drum's inside diameter. You can do the rough adjustments of the linings with the drum off and then install the drum and do the final tweaking with drum on. On a wood wheel drum you will have a removable access door on the outside of the drum to insert a feeler gage to measure the clearance. As you rotate the caliper around the full circumference of the lining you can adjust both the bottom eccentric and the mid bolts which just adjust the other end of the shoe.

On a wire wheel car like mine there's no access door so you install the drum, and you continue to tighten the 2 bottom bolts on the backing plate while spinning the wheel until you feel a slight drag. After doing both eccentric bottom bolts, you can do the bolts halfway up the backing plate on each side-these adjust the other end of each lining which is not nearly as critical. Again, spin the wheel and tighten until you feel a slight drag.

All this information is in the owners manual or shop manual for your car (excepting about using a caliper if you don't have the handy Chrysler tool).

This has resulted in good working brakes on my 3 Chrysler cars.

Warning-Since these shoes do not float on the bottom eccentric pins, you must readjust regularly to allow for wear especially in the early days when there will be much more wear til the linings wear to the particular radius of the brake drum.

If you do not own a 6" caliper, you should go out and buy this relatively inexpensive but handy tool. Did I tell you about the grinder which mounted on your axle and ground the shoes to a true drum radius?? Check your local Chrysler dealer-ha ha

Notes-you should have your drums inspected by a repair shop to check for bell mouth and out of round using their particular brake tools for drum brake cars. They will be able to accurately measure the drum's inside diameter.You might find you need to have the drums turned on a drum lathe to true them up. Generally, a drum which is more than .060 over the stated diameter is worn enough to be a candidate for replacement or shimming of the brake linings. Back in the steel brake drum days, this is a real problem. Unlike Model A Ford owners, you can't buy a new cast iron drum so be very careful about hard driving with oversized drums. Brake fade due to overheated drums can leave you hanging. My 30 Desoto has .090 over sized worn drum drums but I've been on 5 Glidden Tours so you can drive if you take care and yes, I've experienced brake fade in New Hampshire's mountains.

Martin Lum 1930 Desoto, 1933 Chrysler, 1955 Desoto

[hwellens]

Check out brake adjustment on this site:

P15-D24 Technical Tips

[Guest krislou80]

The level of power brake assist is not adjustable. The only part of the brakes that adjusts and it should do this automatically is the back brakes. If these need adjusting, then the automatic adjusters should be replaced so they function properly.

___________________________________________________________________________

Brake Adjusting Lever - AC DELCO BRAKE ACCESS HOLE PLUG -- A high quality, direct fit OE replacement brake access hole plug

[Guest Bill-W]

Chrysler used Lockheed brakes from 1924 into the 1960's, and no Lockheed brake had self-adjusters. Both front and rear brakes need to be adjusted periodically, and both shoes on each wheel will need to be adjusted.

Self-adjusting brakes on Chrysler Corp. cars came with the switch to Bendix brakes in the early 1960's. All drum brakes need to be adjusted as the linings wear down, either with self-adjusters or manually.

At one time you could order oversize brake shoes to compensate for drums machined oversize. The brake linings were thicker.

Bill

Vancouver, BC

[Guest martylum]

If you shop some literature dealers and purchase the 80-90 page Owners Manual for your CJ, brake adjusting will be fairly clearly spelled out. This piece of literature supplied with each new car is the closest thing you'll find to a shop manual.

Basically the 2 bottom eccentric bolts are used to center the fixed end of your linings on the axle. The 2 middle bolts are used to center the swing end of the lining after centering the eccentric end of the linings..The middle bolts can be adjusted after you install the drums and wheels to bring the swing end as close as possible to the drums for a slight drag when you spin the wheel.. There was a special tool used originally to center the linings but NLA. I use a common 6" caliper and measure from the tapered axle out to the outer edge of the linings to center the shoes on the axle. You work with one shoe at a time. If you have an old drum and could cut the outer part to a half circle retaining the full center hub, this would make the job much easier. Using the caliper to accurately measure from the center axle will work. Set your caliper for 1/2 the drum inside diameter minus 1/2 the diameter of the axle shaft minus a 4-5 thousands. It helps to have a brake drum gae to accurately measure the drum I. D.

These brakes work quite well after you set them up and the same design was still in use on my 55 Desoto

Martin Lum

1930 Desoto --1933 Chrysler owner

[Guest moose1550]

I have a1930 desoto the bolt that goes into the brake cylinder how many copper washers do u use

 

[vintchry]

Moose, Typically one gasket on each mounting surface. Get gaskets that fit as snug as possible on the bolt thread or shoulder depending on location, and be prepared to tighten everything again after you have put in fluid. Rob

[hwellens]

Here is some info on adjusting Chrysler Brakes with and without the tool:

 

 

Chrysler brakes.pdf