bifda

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Everything posted by bifda

  1. Julio I just noticed you asked about other parts. I have a pair of rear lamps, Studebaker type D. I have a rear fender which is new old stock, and some small bits, which I would have to dig out if you want any pics let me know. kind regards wayne
  2. I did email you, to the email in your PM however I just noticed you’d put hormail I will resend my message now regards wayne
  3. I’ve sent you some pics. Also attached here. wayne
  4. I have a steering column set for your car, but I am in England. I would sell it and can post overseas if required. If interested in the horn and lever arrangement let me know and I will get some photos for you. It has the stator tube attached, but that maybe hard to post. Regrads Wayne Smith
  5. Chad did you ever find an engine? i can’t help, but I’m looking for an inlet manifold. Do you have or know if anyone with one that they would sell? regards wayne
  6. Does anyone have a good inlet manifold for a 1932 Nash standard 8 engine? thanks in advance wayne
  7. Does anyone have a good inlet manifold for a 1932 Nash standard 8 engine? thanks in advance wayne
  8. A friend in the UK has a Chrysler 77 roadster for sale. This is closer than America and you could visit and view the car. If interested message me your email and I will pass on his details. Regards Wayne
  9. Bob, the pulley where the fan hub is located is on an eccentric, loosen the pinch bolt and rotate the large nut to slacken the belt, the hub will probably need sliding forward in the housing so that there is enough room between the pulley and the cylinder head, to squeeze the belt out. Then you need to undo the rubber/canvas couplings on the drive shaft running alongside the engine. The belt can then be removed. When doing mine I mark everything with tipex so the shaft goes back together as removed. Regards Wayne
  10. Would a Chrysler 77 roadster be of interest? A friend here in the UK has his for sale. His asking price is £50,000 (approx $67,000). If interested I can get pics and more info. Regards Wayne
  11. My 1929/30 Gj commander is on 19” wheels with the same hub caps as in your pic. My 1928 GE dictator is on 20” wheels with the smaller hub caps. thanks
  12. Im looking to buy a set of 5 tires for my 1928 Studebaker Dictator. I am wanting wide white walls, but am having trouble finding something suitable. The car is currently fitted with 5.25/5.50 x 20 tires. I believe the original size to be 5.50 x 20. Could 6.00 x 20 be used? I currently have lester's fitted, but don't want to go with them again. Reason being the set on the car have been on there for at least 12 years, but I replaced one about 5/6 years ago and within a couple of months it cracked all the way around the whitewall, the tire was replaced, but replacement did exactly the same, this too was replaced, the new replacement again cracked and this time I was told it wouldn't be replaced. The side of the tire is slightly different to the older tires on the car, with the originals being in fine condition, Im just replying them as they are now getting old. My other Studebaker had Goodrich Silvertowns fitted, these perished when about 8 years old. I replaced these with Firestones, which seem, great, but this car is on smaller tires and I cant find Firestones in the correct size for my 1928 car. Any suggestions greatly received. Wayne
  13. Looks similar to the footplate on my 1926 Studebaker
  14. In your photo it would appear that three have brake drums. The wheel far left is a front wheel and it has a drum attached. Could it be one has had the drum removed? wayne
  15. These are not the same as the 1926. The 1926 would have rear brakes which are external contracting bands, 1928 has more conventional rear brakes within the brake drum. Also if the 1926 has front brakes the car won't have wooden wheel, they should be metal disc wheels. If however the car has wood wheels then it won't have brakes, these wheels are for a car with four wheel brakes. Hope this helps Wayne
  16. John I would like the material if possible. How much would it cost to ship to Texas? can you confirm it is green as it's hard to tell on my screen if it's green or gold. I assume PayPal is ok for payment. Thanks wayne
  17. Did you sell these parts? I am looking for some wheels for a 1932 Oldsmobile. I currently have wood wheels fitted and so would either consider the same or wire spokes, I need at least 4 wood rims and if wire I need 6. I want to renovate a set of wheels and then swap them over so that my car is not off of the road, as it is used most weekends for weddings. Thanks Wayne
  18. Damien, I haven't yet used the engine, but I run a wedding car company so this is a spare in case I need it in an emergency. As for the hand brake, my cars are all left hand drive, having been imported from the USA. Are you in the UK? Wayne
  19. You'd be surprised, I currently have the four above, and sold my 1928 GB commander recently, plus within a couple of miles there are 2 more 1928 GB commanders. So 6 1920's Studebakers all local to me. wayne
  20. Guys, I have bought all of the parts from Joe, and they are currently bobbing up and down in a container on their way across the Atlantic to little old Britain. I have 4 studebakers and the parts will fit my 1928 dictator and my 1929/30 commander. My other two cars are a 1926 ER roadster and a 1926 Big 6 roadster. Kind regards Wayne
  21. JoeMax, I have sent you a message. Kind regards Wayne
  22. I actually started a new topic on here so that I could put the latest question regarding grade of oil in the title, this resulted in a few interesting responses, see The advice has worked, and so I thought I had better update this post with my reply in case anyone in the future has the same problem and comes across this post. Well.... today I went out and bought a gallon of 5W 30 engine oil, drained the transmission and filled it back up with this oil. I only took it on a short test drive, as here it is just below freezing and being a roadster it was a bit fresh to drive, however in the mile or so I drove what a difference, the brakes are now a whole heap better, they respond to the pedal being pushed and stop the car. I think I need to alter the length of the pivot very slightly as the brakes are a bit on or off, but they work instantly, instead of the 1 - 2 second delay I have been experiencing. Hopefully if it warms up in the next couple of days I can take it for a longer drive and actually enjoy driving it, instead of being constantly on edge in case anyone pulls out. A big thank you to the responses above, great advice which has actually worked!!! Regards Wayne
  23. Well.... today I went out and bought a gallon of 5W 30 engine oil, drained the transmission and filled it back up with this oil. I only took it on a short test drive, as here it is just below freezing and being a roadster it was a bit fresh to drive, however in the mile or so I drove what a difference, the brakes are now a whole heap better, they respond to the pedal being pushed and stop the car. I think I need to alter the length of the pivot very slightly as the brakes are a bit on or off, but they work instantly, instead of the 1 - 2 second delay I have been experiencing. Hopefully if it warms up in the next couple of days I can take it for a longer drive and actually enjoy driving it, instead of being constantly on edge in case anyone pulls out. A big thank you to the responses above, great advice which has actually worked!!! Regards Wayne
  24. So are you suggesting a multi grade such as 5w - 30 would probably be suitable? thanks wayne
  25. An update, of where I am at with the brakes on my 26 roadster. A couple of weeks ago I had the shoes on the front and the bands on the rear relined. The company that did the work bonded a soft material to shoes/bands and they tell me that this should help with the brake grabbing issue. I have reassembled everything and set up the bands as in the manual, they do seem better than before and I am sure that once bedded in they will be better than ever before in my ownership. As in my other post I am now trying to alter things so that the pump pushes the operating pistons out at a more responsive speed. Currently it takes about 1 - 2 seconds for the front brakes to work after pressure is applied to the pedal, I am thinking a thinner oil maybe needed as I currently have SAE 30 engine oil in the transmission, as suggested in the Studebaker workshop manual. Any suggestions of a suitable oil would be great. Once the front brakes work, they really do stop the car quickly, but it seems that they are either on or off, it is hard to get gradual pressure to the front brakes, this maybe a feature of the brakes, or it maybe that I don't have the pivot quite right on the operating lever I made up, as the original was missing. This maybe a bit of trial and error with the pivot, or just something that I will get used to. Regards Wayne