Which '30 CJ Carb

[Bill Harmatuk]

Help and opinions, please.

The Carburetor that came on my 1930 Chrysler CJ-6 is not the correct carburetor for the car and it will only run with the choke half open.

(Can't find a vacuum leak) I think the carburetor is worn out or damaged inside. It appears to be a Zenith 2408,(on the round tag) and is cast steel, with accelerator pump which I'm told I don't really need.

The carbs flange is bigger than the intakes flange (2 3/8). The mounting holes have been elongated so the carb will fit the stock intake. The carb is an updraft. Intake has a 1 11/32 throat.

This car will be driven and I want the best, reliable carburetor for the 196 ci displacement of the motor. In other word a carb that matches the displacement. Every thing else on the car will be original.

Should I go with a Zenith, (new) Carter, or Stromberg. Remember I want reliability and efficiency, and ease of maintenance.

Which Zenith., which stromberg and which Carter are you guys using on your Plymouths and Dodges that are driven and trailer queens too.??

Any help or replies or correct carbs for sale, please let me know.

I almost called about a new Zenith but I thought I would as the EXPERTS.

Bill Harmatuk

[Guest martylum]

Hi Bill-my manuals for that period show your car equipped new with a Carter RJH-08 brass bowl carb either 153 or 159S is the model #.

These carbs are rebuildable and kits are available. I have driven about 5,000 mi. with the same Carter carb on my 30 Desoto which has the same sized engine as your car and also came with an brass bowl carb new. It seems to work well on tours and does have an accelerator pump which will make your car much more driveable than a carb without. I installed an original equip. Stromberg on a 29 Desoto and it performed even better than the Carter on my 30 Desoto but was devilishly hard to rebuild.

Try E-Bay and call several carb rebuilders including the Carburetor Shop in Eldon, MO for kit and rebuilding costs. None of these early carburetors are a breeze to rebuild properly. Model A Fords have about the same sized engine as yours-wonder how a Model carb would work. These should be easily available and probably much less expensive.

Martin Lum

[keiser31]

There is a Carter RJH-08 on ebay right now listed under 1931 Dodge.

Edited February 3, 2010 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[Bill Harmatuk]

Thanks, guys. You are the GREATEST. Just the info I needed to know.

I just bid on the one on E-Bay.

I have 6 days left and the reserve not met.

We'll see how this goes.

Anybody that has a working carburetor laying around the shop..... I'm willing to dicker.

Bill H

[Bill Harmatuk]

I was told by the Carb Shop that a short pump, DRT-08, was the wrong carburetor for my CJ. I have found one that is completely rebuilt for a 30, 31 Desoto or Dodge.

What scares me is that the guy,(at the Carb Shop), said that it would be like putting a Holley Dominator on a slant 6.

He doesn't have a RT-08, #153, which he said was the correct Carter.

He said he has a Stromberg but it is .....well.... a house payment.

I wanted to buy outright.

What is the difference in a short pump, Carter DRT-08 and a RT-08#153??

Will the DRT-08 fit?

Trial and error can get real expensive real quick.

I need some guidance. I need a carburetor.

Bill H

[huptoy]

A Carter BB1 carb should work for an engine of your size. The are usually cast iron and not pot metal. Check for the correct bolt pattern for your car. I have a 211 cubic inch Hupmobile engine that originally came with a Stromburg U-2. The car runs fine with the BB1.

[keiser31]

Here is what I found on the Chrysler CJ carb...

huptoy may be right. Just check your carburetor and intake manifold holes to be sure that they match up. Otherwise you will create turbulence and fuel will always run out the bottom of the carburetor. I sent you the specs on the 1930 DeSoto and Dodge Brothers per your request. John

Edited February 9, 2010 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[hwellens]

Here is some info on the carter carb:

carter carb.PDF

[carbking]

A few observations:

Carter made more than 200 DIFFERENT of the brass bowl carburetors.

Often carburetors which look close to the same externally, differ greatly internally.

The throttle bore is not the most important feature in determining carburetor applicability to an engine. Inside the carburetor is the venturi, which basically controlls airflow.

Placing too large a carburetor on an engine will result in reduced air velocity; thus a lean mixture (the engine may require choke). This may be the condition being currently experienced by the originator of this thread.

Placing too small a carburetor on an engine will result in loss of power.

Jon.

[hwellens]

Some carter 159S info:

Carter 159s.PDF

[Bill Harmatuk]

I've decided that since the correct Carter RT-08 153 and the Stromburg are so hard to find ... and pricey, that I'm going to purchase a new Zenith.

My only road block right now is to find the correct venturie size for the 196 ci motor.

They make a thousand Zenith models and I have a couple of model numbers.

They are 14544 and 13922.

I'm going to call the company and pick their brain and continue my research.

Any help... I'm listening.

Thanks for all the replies.

Bill H

[carbking]

Once you decide on the correct carburetor by size, then you need to determine that your cars fuel delivery system (gravity, or fuel pump) delivers the pressure that is consistant with the design of the carburetor. If not, you need to either modify the carburetor to fit the fuel system; or modify the fuel system to fit the carburetor.

A responsible vendor will ask these questions when you actually purchase the carburetor, and either pick the correct carburetor, or modify it for you.

Jon.

[hwellens]

Here are the jet sizes for the 159S:

Carter 159s jet sizes.PDF

[huptoy]

The BB-1 carb I have is a cast iron model 517 S. Every now and then you see one on Ebay.

[keiser31]

The BB-1 carb I have is a cast iron model 517 S. Every now and then you see one on Ebay.

There is this one on there right now. Item number:320484864110

[Bill Harmatuk]

Thanks Keiser

My bid is in and I have an hour and 40 min to go.

Lets keep our fingers crossed!!

May be that high speed jet isn't hurt too bad. Notice that it's bent?

Bill H

[Guest HeyPop]

Working on a Carter DRT-08 for a buddy's 31 CJ and am planning to make a new standpipe for it. Once we got the debree cleaned out from the old pipe, which was trash as usually found, there was a spring wound inside the brass sleeve shown. Should this be out of the sleeve and move to help raise the choke assembly in place when the choke is active or should it actually be inside the small brass sleeve, which I still have to get loose from the old pipe?

I'm not sure of the purpose of the small spring and plate shown either. I know where it goes and it looks like it should move the sleeve when it's in place, but there nothing inside the pipe to keep it from just sliding up/down free.

Edited November 15, 2013 by HeyPop (see edit history)

[frank29u]

These are from a RT-08 and are quite similar, if not identical. Each part is on the outside of the Stand Pipe. The brass "sleeve" is on top of large spring followed by the small brass washer which rests on the "small plate." Note this "plate" fits in the grooves in the stand pipe and slides up/down. The small spring fits underneath this plate to keep it pressed to the top of stand pipe. These springs keep the brass sleeve to the top and covering the holes in the stand pipe to one degree or another. The spring on the Choke shaft and lever keeps the Choke cone in the unchoked position on the Stand pipe. This is what I understand. frank

Can't seem to attach pics, try again later.

[Guest HeyPop]

Thanks so much Frank. That makes a lot more sense now. Actually turning a new one from a 4" section of brass tubing. Since the pipe broke off pretty much flush with the threaded flat plate in tact, I'm making the new assembly so it slides into the original hole in the center. I'll post some pics after i do some of the milling today.

[frank29u]

Your very welcome Mike. Glad I could help a little. Would like to see your results. I have been unable to unscrew stand pipe from the cast base and any ideas of how to remove are appreciated. (still can't attach pictures)

[Guest HeyPop]

OK frank. Finished the assembly about an hour ago. Had to do some lathe work. I have a 1940 Sears/Atlas modeling lathe I've been using since I got my original Model a to make parts. NO PLASTIC and still works great. Anyway... Did a lot of hand work and some milling of the slots on my Dad's old Sears drill press that i converted over to 220/3 phase so I could do some speed changes. First pic shows where the original assembly broke off the base inside the carb. This would prove to actually be a good thing as breaks go. It gave me a flat surface to start with. I turned the brass section of pipe I had so it was a snug fit into the hole seen there.I started all my other measurements from there.

Second pic is of the assembly stretched out to show pieces.

Third is the assembly as seen from the top in the carb.

last is the assembly seen through the intake port.

Got my fingers crossed. Need to put the gaskets and stuff from the rebuild kit my buddy got to finish it and then try a start up. Worse case scenario .. I find a BB1 and install it.

[frank29u]

Very nice work Mike! As long as all the parts move freely, no reason it shouldn't work. My DRT-08 didn't work as well as I expected, but it didn't have the proper cleaner. The RT-08 does fine as long as it isn't full of "gunk." Thanks again for posting. Glad you are able to upload files - I still can't.

Edited November 18, 2013 by frank29u
add pictures (see edit history)

[Guest HeyPop]

Frank.. When the choke is off and the carb is set for normal running are the two holes at the top (about 7/16 down from top edge)of the stand pipe visible? And then closed off when the choke is pulled?

[frank29u]

HeyPop, That is how I understand it to work. The top of the cone is below these holes in normal, unchoked position. In full choke position the cone is up to the top. Since the skirt of the brass "sleeve" is inside the cone, the holes aren't visible, but I believe they will be covered by the sleeve. frank