Guest Airflow Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Hi there..I'm a Norwegian guy, about to buy myself my first ever "muscle/Am-car"I'm "somewhat mechanically inclined", but I wonder what i should be looking out for, adressing that certain model..Rust doesn't seem to be an issue, though the seller metioned the fact that the rear window had some leaks, but I'm not that concerned about that fact ( car had been repainted and rust treated in 2002. Roads are not "salted" up here near the Arctic Circle, and car will only be driven during like the summer( which is short)How about Engine/transmission problems or suspension issues ( The car has be lowered 2 inches apparently)Anyway, I would be grateful for any advice, or any links/ info on that car ( general info and parts availability, both stock and "aftermarket parts") And yeah I drive a Saab 9-5 and a 99 turbo (78 mod) so yeah, I guess I'm in for a HUGE experience... Anyways, that's all for now"Airflow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 The 1966 Riviera is already a low-to-the-ground car before anyone lowers it more. I would be concerned about damage to the exhaust system, floor pans, transmission pan, oil pan, tie rod ends, and rocker panels and frame and especially the gas tank. Radiator bottom, too.Body and trim parts can be expensive and hard to find. I remember a set of used "Buick" hood letters that I found for a friend's '66 Riviera were about $60 and that was 10 years ago at a swap meet.Engine parts are not as hard to find, as the 425 was made for a few years and was used in other Buicks. I'm told by that same friend that the parts to overhaul that engine were very expensive, though. It's not a common engine. If the car has less than 125,000 miles, it should not require an engine overhaul right away.Ask the seller if the hidden headlights work properly--I think they were fairly reliable and electric mechanism by 1966, as opposed to the troublesome 1965 vacuum mechanism.The interior door panels and built-in armrests are kind of unusual and unique. Check the condition and tightness of them,as they are difficult to fix right. You should also join the Buick Club Buick Club of America - BCA - Welcome and get their monthly magazine for parts listings and cars for sale; also the Riviera Owners' Association has a good magazine 6 times a year, I believe.Pete Phillips, BCA #7338Sherman, Texas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jscheib Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Here too, is the contact for the Buick Club of Norway:PO Box 6565Etterstad, 0606OsloSorry, there is no e-mail or phone for the Norway group in the BCA Magazine - Buick BugleJohn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Welcome to the world of Buicks Airflow. A 66 Riviera is quite a start and a beautiful car. As for basic information you may want to get a copy of the Standard Catalog of Buick. For 66 you can get any of the three editions. But here is some information from the catalog:There were 45,348 Riviera's produced in 66. Sounds like a lot to me but I'll look for production information or maybe some one else will chime in? Anyway, the GS was an option package which included heavy duty shocks, Posi rear axle, and some trim items like a chrome aircleaner and aluminum valve covers. The stock engine was a 425 cu in with 340 HP. A dealer installed option was a 360 HP version which had 2 4 bbl carbs. there has been some talk that 401 cu in engines can be found in some of these cars. I think, however, that this is more prevalent once the cars passed on to 2nd and 3rd generation owners who would just as soon change an engine than fix what went wrong.As for what went wrong, I can only speak from personal experience with a 65 Electra and 66 Gran sport. at 99K or there-abouts, both engines need timing chain and gears. Also the Electra developed a rear main oil seal leak around 140K while the GS had low oil pressure from 120K on. The Electra's tranny went out three times and coincidently we broke 3 sets of motor mounts. The drive shafts may be a problem as I believe they are two piece units with a CV joint in the middle.Other than that that 66 Riviera is a beauty, and if I ever dive into a Riviera again, that is what I'd look for.Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Airflow Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 Thanks Guys....I spent yesterday signing the contract and testdriving the car for the first time....Great looking car, with no rust....It had a couple of "somewhat minor" problems though..The exhaust system had a minor leak..Brakes were "shaking" whenever I tried em ( guessing the front Brake Discs needs replacing)AND The "brake Master cyllinder ( vacuum) is acting strange..Whenever I tried braking my Teeth pretty much hit the Dashboard.. So yeah, NO even and gradual braking, It was either no brake or "lock the wheels" kinda braking!Apparently the vacuum brake servo had been replaced by the last owner ( on a service) ,but yeah.. Something needs to be done with that..And Finally... The rear Power windows were "in-operable"/not functioning..So yeah, searching the web for any "wiring diagrams" and or Shop Manuals.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serb Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 Airflow,Are you anywhere near Lysebotn? My son has been there since the end of May and will be returning home in about two weeks. He spends the summers in Norway base jumping at the Stavanger Base Klubb.Stevo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Airflow Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 (edited) Aha..Nope. I'm further north actually.. Up near Lofoten and Vesterålen ( regions)Hope he has fun.. Edited August 8, 2009 by Airflow Miss-spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 It had a couple of "somewhat minor" problems though..Brakes were "shaking" whenever I tried em ( guessing the front Brake Discs needs replacing)AND The "brake Master cyllinder ( vacuum) is acting strange..QUOTE]Most of these cars had drum brakes in the front and they too can get out of round. If the car has disk brakes you may find new rotors impossible to purchase. I have heard that the rotor surface on old ones can be thickend by welding on new material and then turning them to size. I never tried it. You may want to join the Buick Club for it's monthly magazine which has several buick parts specialists advertising in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Thanks Guys....I spent yesterday signing the contract and testdriving the car for the first time....Great looking car, with no rust....It had a couple of "somewhat minor" problems though..The exhaust system had a minor leak..Brakes were "shaking" whenever I tried em ( guessing the front Brake Discs needs replacing)AND The "brake Master cyllinder ( vacuum) is acting strange..Whenever I tried braking my Teeth pretty much hit the Dashboard.. So yeah, NO even and gradual braking, It was either no brake or "lock the wheels" kinda braking!Apparently the vacuum brake servo had been replaced by the last owner ( on a service) ,but yeah.. Something needs to be done with that..And Finally... The rear Power windows were "in-operable"/not functioning..So yeah, searching the web for any "wiring diagrams" and or Shop Manuals..It sounds like someone may have installed mismatched brake vaccum booster and master cylinder or the one they installed is defective. 66s had the single reservoir master cylinder. No 66s got disc brakes from the factory so if it has discs, they have been replaced and once again if it was not done professionally, the car could have a "pieced" together system using mismatched parts.Inoperable rear windows are quite common on Rivs even on low mileage cars which comes from lack of use. Assuming you are getting voltage to the motor, sometimes if you remove the rear interior panel and give the motor some light taps with a hammer it will start working. Very few parts that were specific to the Riviera are reproduced for these so searching used parts will be the most common and you will need resources. Definitely Join the Riviera Owners Association http://www.rivowners.org/. and also the BCA. There are technical advisors and parts sources in each publication to help you. Drivetrains were reliable and there is no problem with engine, transmission or driveshaft parts. The rear axles were pretty much bulletproof. If you have a rust free body that is most important. Anything else that is broken, missing or perhaps modified incorrectly can be undone. Keep in mind you may have to establish some good used parts sources. oldbuickparts.com and ClassicBuicks.com have the best replacement/repair parts selection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Airflow Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 (edited) Thanks alot guys... I really appreciate your input..As for the car, well, it has run 52 000 miles.. Apparently the original owner in The US ( yeah ,imported) had the car stored in a barn from 1973 untill 1996 !!!The reason?? Oil Crisis..And yeah, It still has that factory receipt and owners manual etc ( atleast i got a glimpse of it, in the glove box)Has anyone of you guys tried fitting a Pertronix Ignitor kit on such a car ,or similar( ac Delco 8 c distributor)?If so, what's your experience regarding performance and fuel economyAnd yeah, the 2 final questions.. Assuming the car has drum brakes ( which seems to be correct) Are those ALSO hard to find/purchase new?Engine dressing.. The valve covers are'nt that great looking, thinking of replacing them, but I checked on Edelbrock's webpage, and there were like tons of them, But I don't know ( atleast not yet) which fits the Nailhead Engine?? ( Yeah, I'm an amateur when it comes to these type of cars in general, but I wanna learn)It had that Wildcat Air cleaner housing aswell ( maybe I'll settle with repainting that one)Sorry for any "idiotic questions" but yeah, still hoping you guys can help a newbie getting started ( will join the clubs mentioned)Will try to post a "close up" photo (read part nr on that brake vacuum booster as soon as the car is parked outside ( picking it up this Friday)So yeah, I'm like a kid on Christmas eve... Link:http://veteran.autodb.no/autodb/view.wa2?_cmd=prospect;AdItemId=931631;Modified=1245879705 Edited August 9, 2009 by Airflow faulty link (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 I can tell you are excited about the car, as well should be. This is a really nice automobile. I hope it's everything you want it to be.I don't know how difficult it is to find the brake drums. Also, considering how far you might drive this car each year, I'd argue against the pertronix. The points and condensor in my 56 is still running right after being installed in 2003. Same for my GS. For the money you may find a new coil to be all that's needed, although both my cars are still runing very well on their original coils.Good luck and please be sure to post some pictures in the me and my Buick forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxops Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Airflow,Some folks have no problem with the electronic ignition. I tried it on my older 56 Cadillac and it wouldn't work. I decided not to attempt it on my 70 Electra as my original system works fine. I was not happy with the way the Pertronix required you to adjust the distance it spins from the distributor to get the proper gap/timing. I was unimpressed. Just my opinion.Another is I would take your valve covers off, clean them thoroughly, and repaint or powder coat them. Anyone can put on Edelbrock chromed covers, but so far, you have an original!The best of luck and..."wouldn't you really rather have a Buick?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Airflow Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Yeah, well.. Point taken I guess, Car is pretty much original (atleast when it comes to engine and transmission)Will see about that Ignition .. I thought I sensed a "steady misfire" while driving it, but then again, that could be caused by a number of things, ranging from old Petrol, to worn spark plugs, points.. etc,etc..I noticed though on those "mandatory" MOT-Test's that for every passing year the car had been "tested" the Co2 level in the Exhaust ( carbondioxid) was increasing..The latest test showed a Co2 level of 8,5 % ?? ,so iit might be a "sticking carb" that causes that "misfire"...Anyway, again, thanks for all your help guys.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kaycee Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 I've had quite a few nailheads(Buicks and Rivieras) ('66 was the last nailhead engine ,and I consider them a GREAT ENGINE), and never had problems with points ( I just routinely replaced them and spark plugs about every 20,000 miles along with pcv valve and filters). Points and condenser are easy to get since they used the same parts on almost all GM V8s from about '57 up. I did install a Pertronix on a '65 425 Riviera for a friend (He kept burning up points), and it worked well. They work OK assuming the distributor is in good, solid shape. On your car, I'd check the points and plugs and replace them if needed before I'd install a Pertronix. If you have drum brakes, the front ones were aluminum with liners on '65 and earlier Buicks (and probably on your'66) and cast iron rear drums. The aluminum drums if out of round would 'chatter' or thump , so I'ts important if that's a problem to have them turned and new shoes 'arched' or ground to fit properly. Your rear power window problem may be just switches which are available from a few sources and should be easy to replace. Does your car have a 'master' swiitch on the drivers door to control all the windows? On the air cleaner: my '63 Riv. had a big red assy, but all the '65 Rivs I've had , had black air cleaners with Wildcat 445 0r 465 decals on the top lid.( The numbers indicated engine torque rating not displacement or horsepower).The ones that I owned were'nt 2 carb. cars) Unless you have the dual carb. Super Wildcat engine, your valve covers are probably Buick green. Try to avoid replacing them with aftermarket chrome covers. You'll just take away from the originality. Please keep us all posted. You have a nice car! You may also consider posting on the Riviera forum and joining the ROA ( Riviera Owners Association) club. There's a wealth of info. there. kaycee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Airflow Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 (edited) Huhhm... I've got the power window switches on the driver's door allright.. But yes, I'll check for current... Air cover , pretty sure it was black with like a red Logo ( Wildcat) on top.Yeah, I guess a tune-up is in order.. Plugs, points, plug cables. Been AGES since last time I replaced "points" though. haha Edited August 10, 2009 by Airflow miss-spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Airflow Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 I've uploaded some photos on the car ( my profile)...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 Yes, the air cleaner would be black with a sticker logo on the lid. While they are thinner than the original paper decals, there are reproduction stickers available. I put one on my '66 Wildcat.Original:Replacement: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Airflow Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 Ohh By the way.. Valve covers on the Engine were Red.. This means I have a dual Carb??My main "concern" is the Brakes..People I've talked to claims that you can adjust the "function" of the Brake servo (main cyllinder) As to the "length of travel" /Pedal..Some say It might be as easy as to clean the BrakeDrums of Brakedust etc,etc..I'll try to locate a Body/ shop manual, and if all else fails, just get new brake drums/ master Cyllinder..Thanks again.. Will post more photos soon.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kaycee Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Hi again, From the pictures you've posted, this looks like a real nice car! I'd like to see pictures of the engine (with and without the air cleaner )as soon as you can post them. Your car should have a 401 or 425 engine (probably 425), and the air cleaner should be black with a red 445 or 465 decal on the top lid , unless it is the 2 four barrel carburetor G S which had probably a big chrome air cleaner. kaycee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Airflow Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 (edited) Hi there..Gonna post new photos of the engine ++ ,in 5 min..Does anyone know where i can buy the Buick shop and Chassi manual?I'm struggling to find the O BTDC mark on the flywheel, in order to set the ignition timing correct..I'm assuming cyllinder nr 1 is closest to the firewall on the passenger side??The heater is leaking,so I'll probably just bypass it ( since I'm only gonna use the car in summertime..Vibrations during braking.. Huhmm, well I found out that NONE of the wheels have "balancing weights" ( on the wheels/rims), so I'll start with getting the wheels balanced..That and some "el-problems" ,mainly lights ( parking lights) and Instrument lights..Oil Pressure gauge in not working, along with the amp.meter..How do i get the Instrument panel "Off" so that I can examine wires and such?Sturla Edited August 16, 2009 by Airflow Miss-spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 The number one cylinder is the one in the cylinder bank that is most forward, behind the radiator. I believe on a nailhead it would be the one on the passengers side. For the guages I'd check the fuse first, and then check to make sure the wires at the sender units are making good contact. My GS had no oil light operation untill I replaced the connector at the sender unit. Lack of wheel weights will not materially affect braking. Many times tires are balanced without putting weights on the outside of the rim for appearance sake. Braking vibration is going to be warped drums.By passing the heater core will eliminate the leak but I think you'll be surprised at just how much you'll miss that heater. In my former 69 Electra the heater core was removed from inside the car. The cover for the core had a bunch of bolts you can see from the inside and then 4 screws which actually came from the engine compartment side, and holding on the shell for the A/C evaporator. The A/C evaporator did NOT have to come off, but in my case I was changing it out anyway. If you do remove the covers, be sure to seal them up again. I found a window caulking material at the hardware store. It was a pliable caulk, not silicone, and it resembled the material used on my car. I went overboard because I did not want carbon monixide leaks into the car from the HVAC system. I was not sorry for that decision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 BTW, I should have pointed out that braking vibration can come from the rear drums too. I had to replace the rear drums and shoes on my Wagon before I eliminated this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kaycee Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Hi again, As John said , number one cyl. is the front one on the passenger side. The timing marks will be on the harmonic balancer and a "tab" on the timing cover, which should indicate:0( top dead center),5, and 12 degrees before top dead center. My manual indicates setting at 2&one half degrees before top dead center or 12 degrees if the engine is a 425 with dual carburetors, but I always set my timing up to as much as 10 degrees advance on my nailhead single 4 barrel carb cars. It depends a lot on the fuel octane your using and you can tweak timing to where your engine runs best. kaycee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kaycee Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Another comment: From the pictures of your car on your post it looks like the wheels are aftermarket chrome units and not stock Buick. This may or may not affect balance and braking. Also, remember you still may need windshield defrosting on cool summer mornings or evenings so think about replacing the heater core in the future. Please get those engine pictures posted. Good luck, and have a good week! kaycee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Airflow Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Pictures are up ( in my profile)..Well, maybe some time in the future ( heater) but if the job involves fender removal ++, then it's gonna take a while untill i prioritize that..Right now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the brake drums.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Airflow Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Front brake drums, removed and cleaned, guess I'll have the "re-surfaced".. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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