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1916 Backfiring


vergil

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Took the car out this morning and about a quarter mile down the road she started bucking, backfiring and losing power. Yesterday and all other days she has been just fine. I've never encountered this problem and am hoping to get some pointers as to where to look. I'm thinking maybe the fuel line? Would love to have her back on the road for the Fourth.Thanks,all!

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I dont know anything about the 4 cyl cars but it always seems to come down to fuel spark and ignition. Do you have a fuel pump or the stock canister, do you have fuel filters, are they clogged, if you have fuel canister do you have vacuum at the canister, is it drawing any fuel. I would I guess look at fuel first like you suggested since that might be easiest. Once you have determined you are getting what you think is enough fuel pressure than I would check the ignition, do you have an extra cap and rotor to swap out, maybe your plugs are fouled. Maybe just clean them and put them back in, there are so many quick things you can do that will prob. solve the problem but if they dont then someone else might know the cars better than me. You prob. already have done all this but I did not see alot of replies so I threw my 2 cents in, hope it helps.

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Guest imouttahere

Backfiring can also be caused by a fuel mixture that is too lean, or an intermittent failure to deliver fuel to the engine.

In addition to your fuel lines, check the fuel pickup in the gas tank and the strainer on the carburetor for blockage, and make sure your vacuum tank is not running out of fuel. If your vacuum tank is not full, try filling it and see if the problem disappears.

Another possibility is that the large metering valve in the carburetor has become separated from its rod where they were swaged together by the factory.

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Thanks to 1930, Dave, Doug, DBBilly. I tried all your suggestions. It seems that the problem was fouled up plugs. I didn't realize how quickly these low compression engines can cause this much carbon buildup. Happy Fourth!

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I have noticed and it might not be your case but the more an engine is worn out ( which is usually what I am working with ) the quicker it will foul the plugs due to poor compression because of bad rings and also carbon buildup underneath the valves causing them to not seal on the seat. I try and find a hotter plug to combat this but I know that is only a temporary fix, I have read in old guides that they used to use water and all sorts of different techniques to help the valve problem without removing the head but I cant seem to find anyone old enough to remember exactely how that was done and with what results. Glad that you found the problem.

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I have noticed and it might not be your case but the more an engine is worn out ( which is usually what I am working with ) the quicker it will foul the plugs due to poor compression because of bad rings and also carbon buildup underneath the valves causing them to not seal on the seat. I try and find a hotter plug to combat this but I know that is only a temporary fix, I have read in old guides that they used to use water and all sorts of different techniques to help the valve problem without removing the head but I cant seem to find anyone old enough to remember exactely how that was done and with what results. Glad that you found the problem.
I have seen the older mechanics do the water thing. You just run the car with the air cleaner off and drip water into the carburetor without allowing the car to stall. It is supposed to "steam clean" the cylinders and valves. The big trick is to feather the throttle as you pour the water in. The non stalling is the important and very tricky part. Actually, I remember that I did it once on my 1968 Plymouth Roadrunner 383 engine. Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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I have done that also thru the carb. but there is a procedure that includes removing the sparkplugs, inserting I am assuming a hollowrod and then something is injected onto top of piston and then ignited and again there are even different combinations to even that.

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For fun, I did a Google search "removing carbon from cylinders with water" and found some interesting info. There's quite a section in an on-line Dyke's about the whole problem with carbon build-up and several options: Dyke's Automobile and Gasoline ... - Google Books (Scroll back to start on page 623)

Then there's this specifically on the water treatment: Water Cylinder Decarbonizing... Should I? - Car Forums and Automotive Chat

Me? Pretty tough to drip water down a Carter updraft carb! :)

Edited by Phil 32DL6 (see edit history)
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Thats a real good article Phil, thanks, Most of us have updrafts I guess and it was meant more to let the carb suck up the water while running which it will do. Thanks again for the info

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I guess this is a good time to say that I am looking for a set of these manuals for 29 or 30 and have a complete 5 volume set for 25 26 if anyone is interested in a trade. I think the ones I am looking for are hard to find because of the model As out there. Thanks

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Guest KENTS30U

I had that Problem with my 1930 Plymouth U and it turned out to be a blocked fuel line when ever I ran over 25 miles per hour it would sputter and back fire due to being fuel starved. if it runs better being over choked you may have the same problem.

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Guest doberman

I saw my dad many times runing one of his old cars at half throtle while pouring a 10 oz bottle of water down the carb. He said it would clean the carbon out. You could stand back and see it

come out the tail pipes. It always scared me when he would do this to one of my 50-60 model

cars as I wonderd when I would see a valve or something else fly out along with the carbon.

AS LUCK WOULD HAVE IT NONE DID !!!

ALAN

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Of course with this carb this might be a little difficult to do.
If the carburetor is an updraft type, you will need to get a water "spritzer" with a trigger and aim into the air inlet. This method requires a lot of throttle feathering and skill, but I have seen it done.
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