vergil

Removed the gas tank today for cleaning and sealing. There was quite a bit of rust due to sitting so long, She may be back on the road for the 4th.

I'm still not sure just how easy this all was, but it sure has been an education for me. I can't believe how smoothly she runs. Formerly at idle the headlights and chassis noticeably vibrated and I took that as being normal for a car of this vintage. She may indeed have been running on three cylinders for a long time. Now she purrs like a kitten (a little exaggeration). Aside from all the skill involved, the greatest joy was meeting Gwen and Jesse.

When I bought it ,the car was in an open field, the top dry rotted and I was surprised that the tires still held air. First thing was new tires. As I could not find anyone who knew how to mount the new tires on split rims, I decided to tackle it myself without the help of a rim spreader. My first attempt was a real success. I am not a mechanic by any means, bit with help from various DB members, notably Doug Walters, I was on the road in no time. Next project was to order new top bows and with help from a very kind lady who makes tops for vintage fords, I installed a new top. I have had so much fum with this car in California an here in Louisiana until it presented the current problem. I'm sure it is going to be an education as well as fum,bringing the old gal back to running condition. Dodge Brothers (i.e.,Club members) are the greatest!

Try Restoration Supply. restorationstuff.com. They may have exactly what you are looking for. In their catalog, page 9, is listed 2331 (ELE091 has pins rotated 90degrees. For 36-39 Mopars, etc.)

I'm finally giving in and switching to electronic ignition for my' 16. One of the posts of the replacement points screws into a stationary post but the diameter of the screw is less than the original and wobbles, seriously affecting smooth running. So I don't make any mistakes, what is the best way to remove the distributor? I have to send the whole distributor for the Pertronix conversion. Pertronix will custom make a module for me for $350 (12v -grd). Thanks for any advice. Bill

:confused: I'm trying to get the '16 ready for a car show on the 20th. For the five + years I've had this car it has performed flawlessly. Now there is a fuel problem with thecarburetor. I'm at a loss as to what the problem is. The car starts fine but idles roughly. When Iput it in gear it dies unless I increase acceleration significantly. Turning the adjusting screw makes no difference. Metering pin?? I took off the float chamber cover and float and noticed bubbles coming up from the needle valve seat. I had checked the carb and found the metering pin was sticking and cleaned it with acetone. That seemed to alleviate the sticking problem and the pin rose and fell while turning the adjustment screw. I did not check the internal parts. Any ideas as to the cause and possible fix are greatly appreciated. Thanks!! Bill

Like John K, when the car was running, I drove my '16 just about every day around town. On almost every trip someone would approach with "Model T?" I love explaining the DB/Ford history as well as the 12V electrical system, unleaded gas, split rims, vacuum fuel tank, etc. Everyone loves the hand operated windshield wiper. The most amusing comment was "Must be worth around $50,000." The only shows I have attended have been showcases for muscle cars/hotrods and 50's/60's cars. That seems to be where the local interest lies. Just wish some of you guys lived closer.

Hi Mike, It was definitely not a vacuum leak. This was in no way a properly bent line. It was really convoluted. I tried everything else to no avail, but when I put in the new fuel line, it just came to life. I'm just happpy that it works as it should.

Hi Jason, Actually, it took me a long time to figure it out. I am not as mechanically inclined as most of the Dodge Brothers, but I have learned a lot from Rodger and the forum experts. I had rebuilt the vacuum tank, then the carburetor, checked and rechecked the timing, cleaned the plugs, cleaned out the gas tank,but none of that helped. I took a good look under the car and noticed that the fuel line went through a series of bends from the gas tank before connecting to the electric pump. Somewhere here on the forum I remebered reading something about a straight fuel line. Turns out that was the problem. Never really thought much about it as the car ran fine with the electric pump. Can't figure out why anyone would do that.

When I bought my '16 over five years ago, it came equipped with an electric fuel pump. I just couldn't get that vacuum tank to pump. Long story short- today I got ambitious and installed a new fuel line as straight as could be and voila! I love that sound. Now all I have to do is repack the water pump and I'll be back on the road again. Thanks to all who have offered advice on this over the last few years.

:confused: Checking everything out on my '16 I noticed that the tail light bulb is barely visible with the headlights on. On "dim" it is super bright. Any ideas? I am not good with auto electrics. Thanks! Bill

By all means, go to the Myers site. This information was aslo published in a fairly recent edition of the DBC News. That should settle the question.

Pete K and Jason, thanks. I just went ahead and put the second thick one under the face and it made an overall tighter fit.

Thank you all for your sage advice. I took the tank apart and checked it out thoroughly. Sure enough it would "hang up". Upon closer examination I noticed that one of the springs was improperly installed, perhaps by half a turn. I reinstalled the spring and got a perfect up and down motion. I will reinstall the tank this weekend. Amazing that such a slight difference would cause the imbalance. It should work, but if it doesn't, I'll just go back to the electric pump. Bill

I've been trying unsuccessfully to get the vacuum tank on my '16 functioning properly. Hooked it up the other day and it filled right away. As near as I can fugure the valve lever gets hung up and it stops pumping. Is there anything I can do short of replacing the entire unit? I did replace the springs and everything else is in good condition.

Just received the new gaskets and notice there are three. When I removed the gauge there were only two (deteriorated). The face was flush with the tank then a thick gasket, the glass and a thin gasket. Should there be a gasket between the bottom of the face and the tank? Something tells me that should be the case. I also removed 95 years worth of grime from the face. Never knew it was brass. Thanks!!!

Thanks Jason! I was hoping that was it.

I'm having a problem with fuel delivery which I have traced to the fuel tank which will have to be cleaned. Should the flow of gas from the delivery tube where it connects to the fuel line be restricted or should it have the same inside diameter as the fuel line? There is a pinhole opening at that point and I can't tell if that's normal or the result of years of accumulation. Thanks!

According to the serial number this is 1916. My '16 also has the slanted windshield which several DBC members maintain was done to give the car a more "modern" appearance.

I see it now. Mine has the same but long ago covered with upholstery. My guess would be that it is there to hold down straps from the rear top bow. Mine has the straps but they are fastened more to the right into the wood. I would also like to know more.

Haven't seen one quite like that, but my '16 has a post there for attaching the saddle.

Merry Christmas to one and all and sincere thanks for all the advice this past year!!!

As for the fenders...there were the early and later styles for the '16.

The above mentioned lenses will fit all DBs from 1914 thru 1928.

Try old car lenses home. Larry has everything. I recently purchased a NOS W-14933. He also has used lenses. If that fails, I have an extra one, but don't know if I can pack it securely.