After market brake rotors

[Guest imported_barra]

My '88 needed a brake flush which revealed a leaking rear caliper that the Chevy dealership charged $279 to replace. The rotors were resurfaced and the pads replaced. Everything works but it cost $550.

My 2007 Saturn Ion with 36,000 miles on it required replacing the rotors because, as the dealer put it, the rotors are so thin that they can't be resurfaced.($232.00)

Does anyone know a source for after market parts that will last more than 36,000 miles? I'm not sure but since the rotors weren't covered by any warranty can i have someone else do the work?

[Guest imported_barra]

My '88 needed a brake flush which revealed a leaking rear caliper that the Chevy dealership charged $279 to replace. The rotors were resurfaced and the pads replaced. Everything works but it cost $550.

My 2007 Saturn Ion with 36,000 miles on it required replacing the rotors because, as the dealer put it, the rotors are so thin that they can't be resurfaced.($232.00)

Does anyone know a source for after market parts that will last more than 36,000 miles? I'm not sure but since the rotors weren't covered by any warranty can i have someone else do the work?

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

Brake parts are made to wear out. but if you really want to have a warrentied part, go to autozone or any of the other major parts chains and buy all life time warrentied parts. The warrenties do not cover normal wear, but if they fail any time prior they will repace them for free.

As fare as lasting past 36k, I would buy new rotors and high end ceramic pads. 36k is the expected wear out time for most braking systems.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

Brake parts are made to wear out. but if you really want to have a warrentied part, go to autozone or any of the other major parts chains and buy all life time warrentied parts. The warrenties do not cover normal wear, but if they fail any time prior they will repace them for free.

As fare as lasting past 36k, I would buy new rotors and high end ceramic pads. 36k is the expected wear out time for most braking systems.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

I just did a quick search and between autozone.com and partsamerica.com I found (using the most expensive parts) all of your brake pads and rotors fo about $180. the only thing that this does not include is calipers, wich should not need replacing.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

I just did a quick search and between autozone.com and partsamerica.com I found (using the most expensive parts) all of your brake pads and rotors fo about $180. the only thing that this does not include is calipers, wich should not need replacing.

[Jim]

As Daniel alluded to------- stay away from the dealerships and get your car repaired at a local shop with a good reputation and use Auto Zone or similar parts. NAPA has good parts but they sponsor a Toyletota in Nascar so I have not shopped there for a few years.

[Jim]

As Daniel alluded to------- stay away from the dealerships and get your car repaired at a local shop with a good reputation and use Auto Zone or similar parts. NAPA has good parts but they sponsor a Toyletota in Nascar so I have not shopped there for a few years.

[Machiner 55]

For the 88 Reatta at Advance Auto (Shucks):

CALIPER:

Part No.

164510L

Cardone Loaded Brake Caliper

Brake Caliper: Remanufactured; With Installation Hardware And Pad; Rear; Left; OE Metal Piston

Warranty: LTD LIFETIME REPL Ships in 1 day

$92.98

$40.00 core

ROTOR: (Cheap- probably made in China)

Part No.

105870

Raybestos Raymold Brake Rotor

Brake Rotor: Raymold; Rear; Rotor Only

Warranty: Limited 1 Year* Ships in 3 days

$15.99

ROTOR: ( Expensive- also probably made in China)

141378

Bendix Brake Rotor

Rear

Warranty: 2YR REPL Ships in 1 day

$45.94

The loaded calipers come with pads. Take the old calipers off- put the new ones on - done. The hardest thing about the job is getting the E-Brake cable back on.

When changing the rotors you’ll need to remove a two bolt bracket. The FSM says to replace the bolts with new ones. DTerry has a story about what happens when you don’t.

I’m not recommending not changing the old bolts but, I’ve done it both ways. When reusing the old bolts (as well as the new ones) I used red Locktite #271. Done almost three years ago. So far, so good.

Also, be sure to torque to the proper values when installing. Don’t rely on feel, use a torque wrench.

So, for under $300.00 in parts you could install two new (reman) calipers and rotors and do a brake flush.

I understand not all of us have the tools, time, space or inclination to do the work. I just put it out there for informational purposes . As far as what kind of mileage (life) you’d get from these parts… don’t know.

[Machiner 55]

For the 88 Reatta at Advance Auto (Shucks):

CALIPER:

Part No.

164510L

Cardone Loaded Brake Caliper

Brake Caliper: Remanufactured; With Installation Hardware And Pad; Rear; Left; OE Metal Piston

Warranty: LTD LIFETIME REPL Ships in 1 day

$92.98

$40.00 core

ROTOR: (Cheap- probably made in China)

Part No.

105870

Raybestos Raymold Brake Rotor

Brake Rotor: Raymold; Rear; Rotor Only

Warranty: Limited 1 Year* Ships in 3 days

$15.99

ROTOR: ( Expensive- also probably made in China)

141378

Bendix Brake Rotor

Rear

Warranty: 2YR REPL Ships in 1 day

$45.94

The loaded calipers come with pads. Take the old calipers off- put the new ones on - done. The hardest thing about the job is getting the E-Brake cable back on.

When changing the rotors you’ll need to remove a two bolt bracket. The FSM says to replace the bolts with new ones. DTerry has a story about what happens when you don’t.

I’m not recommending not changing the old bolts but, I’ve done it both ways. When reusing the old bolts (as well as the new ones) I used red Locktite #271. Done almost three years ago. So far, so good.

Also, be sure to torque to the proper values when installing. Don’t rely on feel, use a torque wrench.

So, for under $300.00 in parts you could install two new (reman) calipers and rotors and do a brake flush.

I understand not all of us have the tools, time, space or inclination to do the work. I just put it out there for informational purposes . As far as what kind of mileage (life) you’d get from these parts… don’t know.

[Barney Eaton]

I have been driving for 50+ years and have never replaced or turned a drum or rotor. I may be easy on brakes, but shops like to make $$ on turning drums and rotors or replacing them.

Most likely your dealership does not have a brake lathe or they have decided it is more cost effective (for them) to just replace parts.

If you really need rotors, there are many sources online and auto parts stores are also a good source.

Shop around, I recently purchased 2 common U-joints at one parts store for $19.95 each, when I needed another, the same part (same vendor/box) was $14.95

[Barney Eaton]

I have been driving for 50+ years and have never replaced or turned a drum or rotor. I may be easy on brakes, but shops like to make $$ on turning drums and rotors or replacing them.

Most likely your dealership does not have a brake lathe or they have decided it is more cost effective (for them) to just replace parts.

If you really need rotors, there are many sources online and auto parts stores are also a good source.

Shop around, I recently purchased 2 common U-joints at one parts store for $19.95 each, when I needed another, the same part (same vendor/box) was $14.95

[Ronnie]

A word of caution about buying lifetime warranty brakes at AutoZone or other places. I put a set of AutoZone's best lifetime warranty pads on the front of the wife's 2000 Ford Taurus. At the time of the replacement the the rotors looked new.

After about 15000 miles while looking at the wheels I noticed the rotors had grooves in them. I removed the wheels for a closer inspection and found that both rotors on both sides had small grooves across the area where the pads touched. The pads were so hard they were wearing out the rotors.

I talked to Autozone about the problem and he said the warranty didn't cover the rotors. They explained to me that the hard pads were needed to make them last. They said something had to wear in order for the car to stop properly.

I went to NAPA and purchased their premium pad and a new pair of rotors and now everything is wearing as it should. No grooved rotors.

[Ronnie]

A word of caution about buying lifetime warranty brakes at AutoZone or other places. I put a set of AutoZone's best lifetime warranty pads on the front of the wife's 2000 Ford Taurus. At the time of the replacement the the rotors looked new.

After about 15000 miles while looking at the wheels I noticed the rotors had grooves in them. I removed the wheels for a closer inspection and found that both rotors on both sides had small grooves across the area where the pads touched. The pads were so hard they were wearing out the rotors.

I talked to Autozone about the problem and he said the warranty didn't cover the rotors. They explained to me that the hard pads were needed to make them last. They said something had to wear in order for the car to stop properly.

I went to NAPA and purchased their premium pad and a new pair of rotors and now everything is wearing as it should. No grooved rotors.

[Guest imported_REATAMANZ]

Barney,

The GM Div I work for made 99% of the rotors GM used. We did a study on turning drums & rotors. Our enginers took rotors and drums to various dealerships and requested them to turn them to spec's. The results were terrible not on part met specifications. What we wanted to do was for GM to eliminate turning so we could sell more rotors. Basically found out that this was a money maker for dealerships so GMSPO would not take action.

I would buy cheap Auto Zone rotors before ever condidering turning.

[Guest imported_REATAMANZ]

Barney,

The GM Div I work for made 99% of the rotors GM used. We did a study on turning drums & rotors. Our enginers took rotors and drums to various dealerships and requested them to turn them to spec's. The results were terrible not on part met specifications. What we wanted to do was for GM to eliminate turning so we could sell more rotors. Basically found out that this was a money maker for dealerships so GMSPO would not take action.

I would buy cheap Auto Zone rotors before ever condidering turning.

[Barney Eaton]

Big companies know everything about parts they make and buy. The "bean counters" are constantly looking for ways to save $$. Example, we had a warehouse full of parts and maybe 6 people and a manager working there.

They take the total cost of that warehouse (salaries, heat &lights, taxes, and depreciation) divide that by the total number of part numbers in the warehouse and declare "it cost $$$ to stock a part number" In many ways this is bogus information as we know some parts are used on many products and move faster and take up more space, and some may sit in a box for years without anyone ordering. But,

that is how they established the cost to stock a part.

So, if you take 6 parts that are in an assembly eliminate caring 5 parts and only stock the assembly, someone looks like a hero for eleminating 5 parts from stock. And the customer pays more but the repair person also does the job faster because all he does is replace the assembly, not replace the bad/broken part...which takes longer.

We have all heard horror stories about mechanics messing up.

So again, by reducing the parts they must deal with, you reduce the exposure to doing it wrong. Even then, we all know they manage to mess up jobs.

Because of the demand for "trained" mechanics, even the bad ones can get a job somewhere...until they get fired and move to another dealership.

[Barney Eaton]

Big companies know everything about parts they make and buy. The "bean counters" are constantly looking for ways to save $$. Example, we had a warehouse full of parts and maybe 6 people and a manager working there.

They take the total cost of that warehouse (salaries, heat &lights, taxes, and depreciation) divide that by the total number of part numbers in the warehouse and declare "it cost $$$ to stock a part number" In many ways this is bogus information as we know some parts are used on many products and move faster and take up more space, and some may sit in a box for years without anyone ordering. But,

that is how they established the cost to stock a part.

So, if you take 6 parts that are in an assembly eliminate caring 5 parts and only stock the assembly, someone looks like a hero for eleminating 5 parts from stock. And the customer pays more but the repair person also does the job faster because all he does is replace the assembly, not replace the bad/broken part...which takes longer.

We have all heard horror stories about mechanics messing up.

So again, by reducing the parts they must deal with, you reduce the exposure to doing it wrong. Even then, we all know they manage to mess up jobs.

Because of the demand for "trained" mechanics, even the bad ones can get a job somewhere...until they get fired and move to another dealership.

[Richard S]

Obviously, there are vast differences in pad material, longevity, and the wear they put on the rotors. I have stuck with ceramic pads because they are a nice compromise, are pretty dust free, and most carry a lifetime warranty. I am uncertain, however, if there is much difference in rotors between an AC vs. aftermarket. If not, then I would look at EBAY where a set of front and rear rotors can be under $100. Particularly for the rear, which does relatively little of the stopping, any rotor you put on should outlive the car by a long ways. Similarly with the front, unless you do a lot of freeway stop & go driving, 2 sets should last a lifetime no matter what kind you put on. If you do a reasonable amount of high speed or mountainous driving, or you just plain like the look, go with aftermarket slotted rotors, which are about $125 a pair.

[Richard S]

Obviously, there are vast differences in pad material, longevity, and the wear they put on the rotors. I have stuck with ceramic pads because they are a nice compromise, are pretty dust free, and most carry a lifetime warranty. I am uncertain, however, if there is much difference in rotors between an AC vs. aftermarket. If not, then I would look at EBAY where a set of front and rear rotors can be under $100. Particularly for the rear, which does relatively little of the stopping, any rotor you put on should outlive the car by a long ways. Similarly with the front, unless you do a lot of freeway stop & go driving, 2 sets should last a lifetime no matter what kind you put on. If you do a reasonable amount of high speed or mountainous driving, or you just plain like the look, go with aftermarket slotted rotors, which are about $125 a pair.

[Guest craig hewitt]

It all comes down to the guy that makes the pizza GOOD OR BAD.I always do my own work.i i screw it up i know it. and it will alway be cheaper.even if i do. just my .02 cents Oil changes are for the dealership i don't do them garage it is for the fun stuff and women and beer.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Guest craig hewitt]

It all comes down to the guy that makes the pizza GOOD OR BAD.I always do my own work.i i screw it up i know it. and it will alway be cheaper.even if i do. just my .02 cents Oil changes are for the dealership i don't do them garage it is for the fun stuff and women and beer.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Guest imported_barra]

Thank you all for your experience and common sense. I will be "smarter" next time.

[Roadster90]

Ceramic Pads....OK where are they available for the Reatta please? Can the ceramic pads be used with high end I guess slotted rotors?

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

I can not find them either, I am kind of surpeised. Guess I have one more reason to do the camaro upgrade.

[Guest simplyconnected]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REATAMANZ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Barney,

The GM Div I work for made 99% of the rotors GM used. ...

I would buy cheap Auto Zone rotors before ever condidering turning. </div></div>Where did your division make these rotors? In Mexico? Phillipines? I'm just curious; which GM foundry casts, machines, and balances your rotors?

GM used to buy them from Budd and Kelsey Hayes. Now, they are a thing of the past.

If you would buy Chinese Auto Zone rotors before turning GM, does that mean they are the same?

I'm not bustin' on GM, but 99% of the drums and rotors they used, GM bought from someone else.

[Richard S]

Have to admit I had never looked for the stock pad in ceramic, but this is what I found. I know nothing about either the pad or the seller.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buick-Rea...sspagenameZWD1V

Here is a vendor for the stock rotor in slotted/drilled:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buick-Rea...sspagenameZWD1V

[Roadster90]

Thanks Richard .

Is there any way to find out about the quality of on line vendors/parts?

[Guest imported_barra]

I started all this and am very gratefull for all the information. I had a 2003 Ion and put 80,000 miles on it without having to do anything to the brakes. I don't know how far it would have gone because my wife totaled it. I asked Saturn if the 2003 brakes would fit on the 2007. No, he said. Saturn was using parts that saved "weight" and I asked him to find some better rotors for me the next time I needed them- which he said would probably be 36,000 miles from now.

[Guest Mike_s]

If I recall correctly, the rotors with "sound dampening" steel I've purchased from PA and NAPA were mfgred in Canada.

Over the years I've tried the intialy least costly rotors, but they seem to warp more often over time than a better grade rotor.

[Guest C.F.Massie]

Nic,

I got mine from Brembo Brakes (on-line shopping) for most all my cars, high performance and daily drivers. Not sure who manufactures them. I've used them on slotted/drilled rotors, no problems. You have to call on the price for the Ceramic pads but being the Semi-Metallic run about 35.00 to 49.00 I would think the Ceramic would be a bit more, but free shipping isn't bad. I looked up using a 91 Reatta.

Here is their website: http://brakeperformance.com/site/brake_p...6&ad=google

The Brembo Brakes representative I use told me they recommend using Brake Performance pads for domestic cars.

<span style="font-weight: bold">CERAMIC AND SEMI-METALLIC BRAKE PADS</span>

Fast and Free Shipping - All Makes and Models In Stock!

Parts Available For:

<span style="font-weight: bold">BUICK REATTA 1991 All</span>

<span style="font-weight: bold">CERAMIC - FRONT SET

BRAKE PADS #PC-03530</span>

IN STOCK / FREE SHIPPING! Please Call

For Price

<span style="font-weight: bold">CERAMIC - REAR SET

BRAKE PADS #PC-03540</span>

IN STOCK / FREE SHIPPING! Please Call

For Price

SEMI-METALLIC - FRONT SET

BRAKE PADS #PS-03530

IN STOCK / FREE SHIPPING! LIST: $52.23

$34.82

SEMI-METALLIC - REAR SET

BRAKE PADS #PS-03540

IN STOCK / FREE SHIPPING! LIST: $60.03

$40.02

Ceramic and Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Features:

CERAMIC PADS:

• Longest Pad Life

• Lowest Brake Dust

• Extends Life Of Rotors

• For Everyday Driving

SEMI-METALLIC PADS:

• Ideal For Heavy Vehicles

• Highest Friction Level

• Performance In High Temp.

• Low Brake Dust

Our Molding Process Provides Consistent Braking Performance

Backing Plates Designed to Match Original Equipment

FREE SHIPPING!

Domestic UPS Ground

[Enoytsur]

For what it's worth, the excellent mechanic/shop I use when something is over my head (been going to him for over ten years) will allow me to get a part myself to save a few bucks but will not under any circumstance install any product from Cardone, period. He would rather not have the business than put a Cardone product on my car.

He says that he has experienced a percentage of defective Cardone products that far exceeds that of what he considers normal based on the other suppliers he uses. Cardone products causes him excessive rework therefore he simply won't use them.

Don't shoot the messenger ... just offering another viewpoint.

John

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Hmm...I've used Cardone quite a bit and haven't had any trouble with their stuff (like calipers)

IMO I haven't done exact testing but the Aurora upgrade with normal rotors/pads would do better than premium pads and drilled/slotted Reatta-sized rotors.

If you had slotted (I'm not much for drilled, except for looks) Aurora rotors and expensive pads, or F-body pads, or Corvette pads...

[Richard S]

Just a note here. Having lived for a few months with the aluminum Camaro twin pistion caliper and d/s Aurora rotors, I am fully satisfied that this is a worthwhile upgrade. That kind of grab with the abs functional is really quite amazing.