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Teves conversion debacle


Guest steakneggs

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I am also thinking of changing over to a vacuum assisted Brake Booster and regular master cylinder, and I have found that the proportional valve off of a fiero will work quite well. All you would need to do is to get new connector and a flange break line cutter. It has worked well for me to take the three lines and turn them into two so that you could hook up the Riviera MC.

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Guest steakneggs

If you utilize a two-port master cylinder like the '91 Reatta/Riviera/Eldorado/Seville/Toronado unit there is no need to add a prop valve. There is one already near the left rear wheel. DO NOT DISTURB! The rear line must be reflared (at the front) to fit the rear port on the new m/c and the front two lines must be T'ed into one. I'm trying to get a hold of one to see the thread size. If the front port is 10mm fine thread then the T can be constructed without having to reflare any more lines. As far as utilizing the '91 ABS, I guess anything is po$$ible. Steak

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With the later Delco ABS they moved the computer functions into the "powertrain control module" (new version of our ECM). This is difficult to duplicate. There may be an aftermarket ABS available though it may also use different wheel sensors. Any thing is possible for those with cubic money or nothing else to do.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest steakneggs

I finally got a warm Saturday to pull the Riv unit off and remove those two shims that I never needed in the first place. All went well and I proceeded to hook up the left rear brake. Got it bled and was checking the pedal when it broke free. I forgot to put the wire clip on! Anyway I got it all done (I still need to run the fourth line) and started it up. It was leaking vac like a seave through the booster. And no assist. I might have damaged something when the pushrod slipped off. I'll have to pull it again tommorrow if its decent outside. I really don't want to open that booster. Steak

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Guest steakneggs

I finally got to use the 11 page section of my FSM devoted to the Riv master cyl/booster. (Its 125 pages for the Teves). It came apart easily so far. There are about a dozen parts total. I think it's an O ring inside the power piston that's leaking because the diaphrams look fine. It might have pieces of deteriorating foam filter causing a poor seal. Need snap ring pliers. This unit was missing the pushrod to the master cylinder! The master cylinder was being operated by the booster piston which is about a half-inch back (according to the FSM pic). No wonder I had low pedal.

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Guest steakneggs

I finally got that snap-ring off inside of the power piston and finished disassembling the pushrod assembly. The O ring looks okay but I bought a slightly thicker one to use. I should have the whole thing done by this weekend. First I'm going to hook the vac hose up to it and listen for leaks. It's nice to have a unit THAT COMES FULLY APART AND IS FIXABLE BY A MORTAL! STEAK. I mean Steak

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Guest steakneggs

I got the booster back together today. All I did really was replace a 61 cent O ring. I hooked the vac line to it and it didn't leak. I'll fully install it tomorrow. I had to fabricate the output pushrod because it was missing for some reason. Just luv fabricating missing stuff. Hope to have three brakes by this weekend. All I need to get the fourth is have my son install a nipple on a piece of line at his work. They have a bubble-head flaring tool. Steakmobile is parked anyway do to crummy mileage until (if ever) gas gets below $3. Steak

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Guest steakneggs

Had a bad day yesterday. Bolted up the Riv unit, installed my fabricated pushrod and the master cyl. When I applied some vacuum, it was leaking profusely and the pedal was being applied by itself! It was sucking down. My brain hurt. I was going to let it sit for a few days but decided today to see if I installed a seal incorrectly. My Reatta FSM covers this unit and sho nuff the seal was on the wrong side of the booster case. I pulled the thing off again, split it for the umpteenth time, switched it around and stuck it back on the firewall. This time no leaks and the proper vac refill sound during initial pedal application. Should finish this weekend weather permitting. Steak

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Guest steakneggs

Got the steakmobile roadworthy again. Have three brakes. Finally de-rusting one rear rotor. Found out best way to work under dash. Use crab position. Have sockets and u-joint laying on seat. Bottom two and right upper booster nuts can be turned without u-joint. Remove gas pedal bracket so that CPS box can be moved out of the way. Rewarded cantankerous steakmobile with new pedal-to-pushrod wire clip (19 cents). Still fear Lansing gods will cause rejection of transplant. Steak

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Guest steakneggs

Yup. I can't believe this conversion is not more commonly performed due to the cost and over-complicatedness of the Teves system. As far as resale value, Reattas don't have much and I believe it is because of the Teves. I can now buy one with a broken Teves (which will be getting more common) and convert it for about $150. Next time I will use a '91 unit and should be able to do the whole thing in a couple of hours. Mine took longer due to having to replace rusted lines, reaming the pushrod, having to rebuild the booster, replacing two calipers, and crappy weather. I put a thousand miles on it during the process! Steak

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Guest steakneggs

According to some research I've done, all '91 Eldorado, Seville, Toronado, Riviera and Reatta two-port units are the same which should be a better fit than the '90 four-port unit I (mistakenly) used necessitating running an extra line and removing the prop valve. I've been trying to get my hands on one off the car to check its fitability. Between those five models a used one shouldn't be too hard to find. There was a '91 Riv here locally that I got my missing check valve off of but when I went back for the whole unit it had been sent to the crusher! If someone has a '91 Reatta unit off the car I wish they would contact me with the dimensions. Steak

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Guest steakneggs

According to some research I've done, all '91 Eldorado, Seville, Toronado, Riviera and Reatta two-port units are the same which should be a better fit than the '90 four-port unit I (mistakenly) used necessitating running an extra line and removing the prop valve. I've been trying to get my hands on one off the car to check its fitability. Between those five models a used one shouldn't be too hard to find. There was a '91 Riv here locally that I got my missing check valve off of but when I went back for the whole unit it had been sent to the crusher! If someone has a '91 Reatta unit off the car I wish they would contact me with the dimensions. Steak

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  • 2 weeks later...

Let's cut to the chase. Can I buy a new 1991 reatta bosch master cylinder complete and bolt in in place of the Teves? What minimal modifications do I need. I agree with you with the teves killing the car.

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no you must add a brake line. if I remember right. But it can be done. PSST the Teves also coms in a few other cars. I replace mine and replacer the accumulator, for about $200. It now has over 10,000 on it and still going. But I will be trying to mod a new brake system some time in the near future, and this will include the ABS system.

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Guest steakneggs

I would not buy a new '91 unit until it is certain that it will fit. The dimensions are on this thread somewhere. Also keep in mind that the '91 has a separate ABS unit that will be eliminated with this conversion unless you enjoy the plumbing and electrical boondoggles that would be required to employ this option. The '91 unit only has two ports eliminating the need to run another brake line. But the port for the front line must be T'ed into two, which will involve some possible reflaring and unsightly plumbing. You also have to aquire a T the right size. I have a couple from a Porsche that work. The front nipple of the rear brake line will have to be reflared to fit the replacement m/c. Steak

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Guest steakneggs

Had to drive the Steakmobile Anti-ABS Tribrake through a torrential downpour last night. Could only see road during lightning strikes. Survived. Gave Jr. a new brake line and correct nipple to install at his work Friday but he lost the nipple somewhere. Gave him my last one today but he refused to take it because I didn't wake him on time. The saga continues. Becoming anti-family. Steak

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I forgot the 88 and 89 didn't have abs. If anybody has replaced a 1991 Bosch system with a 1990 Teves system, maybe you could post instructions to this great web site.

90 Maui Ragtop

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Guest steakneggs

The 88-90 all have the same Teves ABS system. I'm not sure if you're contemplating converting a '91 to a Teves or vice versa. If it's the former, please don't wait another day for your mental evaluation. If it's the latter then it's exactly what I have been saying would possibly be the easiest method of conversion. Surely someone must have a '91 unit laying around to compare dimensions to a Teves. I was ready to pay $100 just to find out (by purchasing one at a salvage yard) but they didn't have any of the five GM models that have this unit. Steak

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Guest steakneggs

The non-ABS master cylinder/booster unit listed on autopartwarehouse.com is the one that I used. It's also in the FSM. And take it from me, it is not a direct replacement! Also I have never heard of a non-ABS Reatta unless it was converted. If there was such an animal, I would be dying to get the part # for that unit! Supposedly some Rivieras had the Teves but I haven't seen any. Steak

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  • 1 month later...
Guest steakneggs

Steakmobile has all four brakes! I finally got around to running the extra line to the rear. It wasn't that difficult because I got some practice replacing the original due to rust. There is actually a groove for a second rear line in the rubber holders! The reason it took so long was because the car was completely drivable with three brakes. It only gets weekend use due to gas prices. I still need to fabricate the short pushrod between the booster and the m/c because mine was missing for some reason. I can't find a new or used one. The homemade one that's in there now I cut too short when I assembled the booster incorrectly a few months back causing lower than ideal pedal. I'll tackle it this week maybe. Steak

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There is no indication that any Reattas were built for US consumption without ABS. I have documentation from 1988 that indicats that 11 were built with code J65 brake system in 1988 but have no way of determining what that was, possibly non-abs for canada or export.

There were also 15 built with a (PH3)wheel which my code book says is a 15 x 6 aluminum wheel, the remaining 4688 cars were built with code PH8 wheels which my code book says are 15" wire spoke wheels..... figure that one out.

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Guest Mike_s

I've also seen Reatta rear non abs wheel hub\bearings for sale, my guess is that they are actually intended for other similar cars such as a Rivera or Caddie.

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Guest Greg Ross

Sounds like it's fairly common for "aftermarket" parts Sellers/ Rebuilders to just assume all "E" Body cars would take say a master cylinder that was only avalable on the Riv. for a given model year.

Buyer beware?

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